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The VQ35 is mounted (Pics)


240hoke

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Dayz - Yea after doing this before by soldering the old connectors on I was wondering what the heck I was thinking! Using new connectors and crimping is the only way to do it and its much easier.

 

Thanks for the tip Myron, I really didnt think about doing that, there is alot of cool stuff you can do with the ecu/bcm. Ive been trying to keep the ems and chassis stuff separate though as much as I can, the only thing my ECU controls is the fuel pump for obvious reasons. Right now Im using a SPAL 185 degree grounding switch in the radiator to control the electric fan.

 

I found this thing today which I thought was really sweet... the PLX OBDII reader, has a sweet gauge interface that can display all the readouts from the ECU.

I think one will be making its way into my car in the near future.

http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm200obd/

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  • 2 weeks later...

yeah looks real nice.. so what does the front of your dash look like. I guess you've used 350Z gauges.

 

 

I'm pretty interrested in how your speedo will work out, I mean there's a ratio on your driveshaft to your wheelspeed because of the diff, so does that mean there'll be fewer teeth on your shaft for the pickup to read, so that it'll read the right wheel rotation? I'm really looking forward to seeing how you'll do this.

 

I just gotta find me a 350z engine/tranny that won't cost 10 times what I paid for the whole car.

 

 

Phar

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Austin,

 

Very nice work indeed.

 

Maybe I missed it in your thread, but what are you using for the throttle by wire as pedal. the stock 350Z pedal?

 

 

I've used these connectors with pigtails from Allelectronics:

 

2 pin:

image_product.height.500;width.500;modified.1207856316.CON-20.jpg

 

3 pin:

image_product.height.500;width.500;modified.1207856319.CON-30.jpg

 

4 pin:

image_product.height.500;width.500;modified.1207856320.CON-40.jpg

 

6 pin:

image_product.height.500;width.500;modified.1207856323.CON-60.jpg

 

9 pin:

image_product.height.500;width.500;modified.1207856324.CON-90.jpg

 

Not weather tight, but good quality. Short money, and they are already assembled. Just cut in the middle and splice.

 

allelectronics.com

 

 

Pete

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Hey,

 

Im using the factory DBW pedal.

 

Those look like they would do the trick. However I was trying to get away from splicing. I really don't like to do that and buying the proper terminals and crimper was well worth the money in my book. Not to mention its 10x easier then soldering in weird angles inside the car. Thats a sweet site though, they have tons of stuff.

 

The vintage connectors run from 2-4 bucks so they are to bad price wise and I believe connectors from Waytek are even cheaper, they just aren't oem style.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ive been working just about not stop on the car for the past week and its pretty much ready for the road. Im taking my time and finishing up little details, I should have it on the road next week. Really the only things I have left are to add some mounting tabs to the intake and install my front bumper/hood. The hood will be latched with locking aerocatch hood pins. I plan on driving it for a while to shake everything down then The engine will be removed for painting of the engine compartment and lots of powercoating on the engine. I also will be working on installing all the interior vinyal and making some doors panels as well.

 

I didn't take a lot of pictures while I was working but here are a few pictures of the progress.

 

I dont think I had posted this before, but I installed this a long time ago. I'm running the 350z clutch master. I had to drop the pedal box and modify it for everything to work but it turned out nice. The clutch feels exactly like a 350z, which I think has a nice feel...not to light but not to stiff.

DSC_0110_Medium.jpg

 

I cut the top of the transmission tunnel out and patched it back to fit the new shifter location, leaving a shifter mount access panel. After that I layed down a second layer of fat mat in the passenger compartment w/ Lcomp on the floors. I really like the shifter location, it is perfect for me..right next to the steering wheel.

 

fat mat w/ L-comp on the floors:

DSC_0130_Medium.jpg

 

The access panel not only allows me to remove the shifter easily but gives me a easy way to fill the transmission with oil too as I can slid a hose down through the top:

DSC_0129_Medium.jpg

 

All the wiring is complete, once everything works for a while Ill loom it up a little nicer. I also need to add some more sound deadening to the firewall. Here you can see the connectors going to the dash:

DSC_0132_Medium.jpg

 

Engine management wiring completed, here again once everything works for a while it will be cleaned up some more as well:

DSC_0135_Medium.jpg

 

Suspension back in a ready to go. I had the differential checked out while I had everything down since I was having some noise from it earlier. Turned out one of the bearings was cocked a little but no damage had been done..came form installing the pinion flange to tight. I also installed a Turck induction proximity sensor on the diff mount so that it picks up the back of the drive shaft mounting bolts, this will serve as my speedo sensor for my Autometer electrical speedo..four equal pulses per revolution with the square patterned 300zxt flange. I forgot to take a picture of it before I installed it, super easy to setup though.

DSC_0138_Medium.jpg

 

Radiator installed with the Jeg's overflow tank:

DSC_0140_Medium.jpg

 

Engine complete and ready to go...just need to add some tabs on the intake.

DSC_0111_Medium.jpg

 

These were waiting for me under the tree, cant wait to install em, kinda hard to roll windows down when your strapped in with racing harnesses:

DSC_0145_Medium.jpg

 

Hope Yall enjoy...Hopefully Ill have some video next week. Im taking a break for the weekend to hang out at school then Ill be back on it.

DSC_0145_Medium

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Thanks for the compliments guys!

 

The car is back on the ground, I took her for a spin around the block tonight...super squirrelly with my eyeball alignment so I couldn't get on it. The engine starts and runs great, however the thermostat isnt opening though so it may be stuck I gotta figure that one out. I also have a few issues with the brakes/suspension I need to sort out before I can really take her out and get a feel for the engine.

 

She is hitting the alignment rack tomorrow night :mrgreen:

 

Ill post some new pictures tomorrow night as well.

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Nice work dude.

 

Before you crack open your thermostat, Have you fully bled the cooling system for air? It's a PITA to do for mostly all 350Z owners and it took me a couple hours to burp it. If you havnt taken the air bleeder tee fitting from the heater hose on a 350Z it might be a good idea and will really help bleeding air out.

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Thanks for the tip Myron, after you mentioned that I spent a little while bleeding the system and burping it...still no go.

 

Then after talking with a service rep at the local dealership I replced the thermostat, still no go.... I called Mark...he immediately told me there was a huge air pocket like you thought. He also said that 350z's were terrible for this and they have a special tool to fill them with coolant as it was nearly impossible to do it by hand...mentioned it has something to do with the tube in the back of the motor that connects the two banks allowing it to circulate without letting air out of the engine... idk

 

Anyhow when I get it aligned tonight Im going to use that tool to pull a vaccuum on the entire system and fill it up.

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