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Z32 sbc 350 swap pics and more to come!


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K here is the pics that pete requested, they make it hard to see the real distance betweent the water pump and the radiator, but its really close to inbetween 1/4 and 1/2 cuz the radiator sit at an angle. the top sits closer to the engine than the bottom.

 

09-11-07_2008.jpg

 

09-11-07_2009.jpg

 

Drop_Team_Z- I have no pics of the engine mounts but i can explain them. i used the stock sbc mounts they are like the 70s styled ones... and i used the stock 300zx mounts. now the 300zx mounts sit back about 7 inches from the center of the chevy ones, thats center to center. so i took a piece of 1/4 inch steel plate and cut and welded them to the bottom of the chevy ones, then put a slot in them for the bolt that sticks up outta the 300zx ones. the slot allows me to adjust alittle and then u just bolt them down on the nissan mounts. make sense? next time i have my manifolds off i will take a pic of them. i have no idea when that will be. sorry. Yeah i never thought i would have gotten it done in one summer but there was alot of late nights and i worked pretty much every weekend all day everyday i could. i started in may i believe and i am finish my exhaust pry next week. i'll put pics up of them and then maybe a little video of how it sounds, if i dont like it i may change it who knows.

 

Thanks everyone for your comments

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I've always be amazed at the lack of ANY room to work with on the OEM TT set-up. You've got a nice project there and I like the fact that you'll probably not notice any loss of performance, but gain a lot of reliability, and room!

 

Amen Terry. I couldn’t agree more. "Firion" does have quite a cool and interesting project going and this conversion should benefit him on many levels.

 

Those are the exact reasons my Z-32 will be receiving a heart transplant in the future as well. The want/need to ease access to the power plant and its ancillaries is of importance and to infuse a bit more tire spinning torque as well. My Z-32 is the N/A variant and to my standards any how, is “torque challenged”. With these car aging and their myriad of systems, wiring, sensors, modules, etc, (they are quite complex electrically speaking), and as such are starting to require more and attention in the hard to reach places.

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Ive run a gear drive cam for many years,Ive installed dozens of gear driven cams, while the advantages are small( slightly more consistant ignition and valve timing) and the disadvantages (more engine noise) are at times a P.I.T.A., as it can cause knock sensors to retard timing, the B.S, I constantly hear repeated about harmonics in the valve train has NEVER been the slightest problem, ON ANY ENGINE IVE EXAMINED, OR BUILT,..Ive also used buckets full of CLOYES true roller chains cam drives .I hear this gear dives suck crap,constantly, but have YET to find a verifiable example that on closer examination did not turn out to be caused by some OTHER factor, like sloppy clearanceing or bad valve train geomety, the wrong valve springs,etc.

if you prefer a chain drive thats fine! both drive systems work if correctly installed, but don,t think one is vastly superior, if you think chains are stabile, watch one dance and flail around with a strobe light at 6000 rpm on a dyno some time after cutting a hole in the timing cover and valve covers and glueing a lexan window on them cover to check.

youll be supprised at the number of guys that blame a gear drive for a valvetrain failure that could not tell you if thier lives depended on it, the valve springs coil bind height, the valves seat loads on the springs, loads at full lift, flex/deflextion of the rocker studs at full lift, piston to valve clearance, or how to degree in a cam, their retainer to valve seal clearance at max lift, what will result from retarding the timing 4 degrees, and have never seen a rocker stud girdle or shaft mounted rockes, or understand setting valve lash or even know how to install a cam button, yet those same guys are the first in line to swear harmonics in the valve train caused the valves to hit the pistons, hell most guys cant tell you if they run 7 or 10 degree valve keepers or the spring seat thickness on the spring seats used on thier aluminum heads, and have no idea of the coil bind clearances and retainer to spring shoulder dia. etc. theres a good deal more to a valve train that slapping parts to gether and spinning it over with the timeing gears alighed DOT-TO-DOT and expecting it to run correctly

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Ive run a gear drive cam for many years,Ive installed dozens of gear driven cams, while the advantages are small( slightly more consistant ignition and valve timing) and the disadvantages (more engine noise) are at times a P.I.T.A., as it can cause knock sensors to retard timing, the B.S, I constantly hear repeated about harmonics in the valve train has NEVER been the slightest problem, ON ANY ENGINE IVE EXAMINED, OR BUILT,..Ive also used buckets full of CLOYES true roller chains cam drives .I hear this gear dives suck crap,constantly, but have YET to find a verifiable example that on closer examination did not turn out to be caused by some OTHER factor, like sloppy clearanceing or bad valve train geomety, the wrong valve springs,etc.

if you prefer a chain drive thats fine! both drive systems work if correctly installed, but don,t think one is vastly superior, if you think chains are stabile, watch one dance and flail around with a strobe light at 6000 rpm on a dyno some time after cutting a hole in the timing cover and valve covers and glueing a lexan window on them cover to check.

youll be supprised at the number of guys that blame a gear drive for a valvetrain failure that could not tell you if thier lives depended on it, the valve springs coil bind height, the valves seat loads on the springs, loads at full lift, flex/deflextion of the rocker studs at full lift, piston to valve clearance, or how to degree in a cam, their retainer to valve seal clearance at max lift, what will result from retarding the timing 4 degrees, and have never seen a rocker stud girdle or shaft mounted rockes, or understand setting valve lash or even know how to install a cam button, yet those same guys are the first in line to swear harmonics in the valve train caused the valves to hit the pistons, hell most guys cant tell you if they run 7 or 10 degree valve keepers or the spring seat thickness on the spring seats used on thier aluminum heads, and have no idea of the coil bind clearances and retainer to spring shoulder dia. etc. theres a good deal more to a valve train that slapping parts to gether and spinning it over with the timeing gears alighed DOT-TO-DOT and expecting it to run correctly

 

 

Amen!

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  • 3 weeks later...

first the good. the car runs like a champ, the bad... the radiator i have isn't gonna cool it i need a bigger one, the manifold i made melted my distributer wires so i need to get new ones. and im going to remove the manfolds and wrap them and then i bought some have sleaves for the wires they are like a 1/2 inch from the manifolds but its still too close. the 4 wheel steering doesn't seem to be working, im going to try one more thing and see how it goes if not i will remove it. i also removed the cruise control, after all it not gonna be a traveling car. the exhaust sounds great but i need to make 2 straps for it one for each muffler, they wiggle a little when you rev it. i was gonna get a vid but i will once i get all that rigga morrow outta the way. here is some good new well for me anyway but it also brings bad news... IM GONNA BE A DAD! so... the z i haven't even had the chance to take on a sunday drive has to go. i need something with a back seat, and the wife wont go for a 2+2 model even tho she loves the car. so any you guys wanting a v8 z with pretty close to all the work done, make me an offer. i wont lie it needs paint, its a 90. the interrior is amazing except the seats coudl be recoverd, no tears, but worn and i just know a tear is coming. and of course i will fix everything and make sure its road worth b4 i sell it to anyone. im not gonna be like the guy that sold it to me. Thanks everyone for your support.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry I havent been on in forever. I have been working, buying and saving preparing for the baby on the way. I have decided not to sell the car. i just can let it go. And as for the pics idk what is up with them not working damn photo bucket! i'll repost them in order. Im thinkin about going EFI but im terrible and understanding that wiring and stuff. i may just have to bite the bullet and buy the whole gm ram jet kit, it comes with everthing. if anyone knows anything about efi stuff let me know it would be greatly appreciated.

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