z-ya Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Nice job on the writeup and the installation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby260 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Ron, Since you seem to have a good relationship with WolfEMS perhaps you could ask for some documentation on the data singnalling that they use over RS232 port on the ECU? I've attempted to contact them several times to no avail. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted October 26, 2007 Administrators Share Posted October 26, 2007 Kirby, It would help if I understood what you're trying to accomplish... PM me, and we'll go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 If you want to learn more about RS-232 signaling standard, you can start hear: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232 If you are looking for a definition of the protocol that runs over the RS-232 interface on the V500, I don't think that AEM will release this proprietary information. If you have a lot of extra time on your hand, you can figure it out with a scope or RS-232 protocol analyzer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby260 Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 If you want to learn more about RS-232 signaling standard, you can start hear: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232 If you are looking for a definition of the protocol that runs over the RS-232 interface on the V500, I don't think that AEM will release this proprietary information. If you have a lot of extra time on your hand, you can figure it out with a scope or RS-232 protocol analyzer. I'm very familliar with the RS-232 signalling standard iteself. I'm looking for the packet structure that runs over the bus from the wolf. I don't think they would class it as proprietary information, we managed to get motec to send us the datasheet for thier packet structure, we just had to ask. Which by the way would be a huge pain in the ass to reverse engineer, its like a 168 byte string. I sent them an e-mail, they never got back to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 Yea, I know it would be difficult to reverse engineer, as I've done similar things before. I know that the older wolf units had all of the part numbers sanded off the ICs so you couldn't steal the design. They may not be so receptive to giving away this protocol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted October 31, 2007 Administrators Share Posted October 31, 2007 I sent them an e-mail, they never got back to me. I received your PM and will bring it to Wolf. Give me a few days. ...and I'd like to see this thread remain on topic. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Now if I can just figure out how to get the Wolf3D out of the cardboard box it came in, I'll be on my way...(j/k) Has anyone found a solution to this problem? I got my cardboard V500 box, and I can't seem to find the wolf in it. I used a sawzall as suggested, but all I see in there now are what looks to be wire clippings and random connectors used as packaging material, and two nice red metalic measuring cups. one with a small barb fitting, possibly for easy gravity sipping of orange juice. help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Has anyone found a solution to this problem? I got my cardboard V500 box, and I can't seem to find the wolf in it. I used a sawzall as suggested, but all I see in there now are what looks to be wire clippings and random connectors used as packaging material, and two nice red metalic measuring cups. one with a small barb fitting, possibly for easy gravity sipping of orange juice. help? Ahhh...yeah, that's what happened to me too (the first time). So I got another Wolf V500 unit. I found a new method to get it out of the cardboard box: Important steps: Bake the box (as recieved) in an oven at 550 degrees F for approximately 24-48 hours. Have a bucket of ~28 degrees F ice water nearby (use generous amounts of salt to decrease the melting point) After removing from the oven, IMMEDIATELY quench the box and contents below the surface of the water. Use bricks as necessary to keep it below the surface. (You may witness large amounts of steam and "crackling noises" coming from inside the box, this is normal) Let the box soak in the salt water for 2-3 days (The cardboard should fall right off after the 3rd day) Apply generous amounts of di-electric grease to the connector pins ensuring you get plenty of contact resistance, if the salt didn't coat the pins adequately If this doesn't work, contact your authorized Wolf dealer and ask for a free replacement. Good Luck! -hughdogz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 epsom salt, or regular table salt? pending the answer to this question, I am a just a bucket shy of seeing if my first replacement contains a wolf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarcreations Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 KTM, Did you ever get around to generating that PDF document? Thanks, Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 I never did get around to creating the PDF document. I can if that would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 KTM - First off, thanks for putting this together. It is very informative. I would like to make one clarification about the 240z ignition switch on my 11/71 "72" 240z. You wrote: For those of you with a 240z, Ron Tyler informed me there is no single wire that is both hot in 'start' and hot in 'run'. You will need to replace the switch with a 280z switch that has a single wire that is hot in both 'start' and 'run'. There is actually one wire (black with white) that is hot in the "on" and "start" positions. I think the problem is that there is a momentary loss of power between "on" and "start" on the 240z ignition switch. On the 280z ignition switch there is no loss of power between "on" and "start." I can see that the momentary loss of power would cause havoc with an EMS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 There is actually one wire (black with white) that is hot in the "on" and "start" positions. I think the problem is that there is a momentary loss of power between "on" and "start" on the 240z ignition switch. On the 280z ignition switch there is no loss of power between "on" and "start." I can see that the momentary loss of power would cause havoc with an EMS. Rossman, you are correct. You stated it better than I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owenbfree Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I have read this thread about 10 times now and will defiantly go with the v500 as my EMS. I wanted to ask how the car ran once it was installed and running. We're you happy with your purchase? I just need a couple more paychecks to order... I can't wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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