proxlamus© Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128284 I did a write up and grouped all the pictures together in an easy to read single page lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Do you guys see any problems with using 180 degree Stainless or Aluminized steel for these bends?! It would be much cheaper then aluminum.. soooo much cheaper i foresee the problem of joining them with welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Ive mentioned this before but if you want CHEAP good quality mandrel bends in Aluminum, SS, or ALuminized go here: http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=65&pageStyle=H They only have 90's though in 6061 aluminum of that size but they are 7 bucks each. You can weld them and be good to go. I used their bends on my i/c kit and they were very nice.; easily weldable, good quality. PS. they have mandrel bend up to 8" in aluminum!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 Austin I called and spoke to a representative a few days ago.. the smallest 180 degree u bend they manufacture is a 12" radius.. which is 24" inches apart! careless.. I would just couple these together with a rubber/silicone coupler lol.. i would not weld these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Right, thats why I was suggesting using two 90's. But now that i look at the 3" clr stuff its still pricey. Chop bends anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 thanks Austin.. I turned in my project for classes yesterday and got an A on the project... which is good LoL I unfortunately no longer have access to a tig or aluminum chop saw.. (*cough* unless Austin wants to fire up his tig) I think I may just polish the intake.. and get some polished stainless steel u bends which is fairly cheap and attach them with silicone couplers =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 They have these things called Donuts.. heres one in stainless. you could chop them in half and have a tight radious 90. maybe get in touch with this distributer and see if they have them in aluminum. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/stainless-exhaust-donut_W0QQitemZ120197020294QQihZ002QQcategoryZ34284QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem And congrats Ryan!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Congratulations on your A! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Prox, Give me some good measurements of what you need and couple bucks for the tubing and Id be glad to give it a shot. I really wanna see how those Tb's work out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Thanks Austin.. after I shoot over some cash for the adapter =) I will be buying some proper aluminum bends.. and i'll be trying out my aluminum "MIG" setup. Ohh such a gamble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Looks good so far, and 'grats on the A. Just wanted to point out that your resonace and also effective peak pwer RPM has changed with the addition of the 180* bends. The calculation is from intake valve to plenum, more specifically half way through the radius on the bell mouths (for some reason the proper name eludes me right now, probably due to this head cold I have.), for a constant radius mouth. With that radius being what looks to be less than 1/2" probably around 3/8", the effective port length ends 1/4" to 3/16" down from the end of the mouths, if you were to place a ruler accross them. I'm sure you've realized this, you just haven't posted about the effective changes that I had seen and you seemed to post abot any small change, and it's effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 The calculation is from the Center of the Intake Valve to the Throttle body.. I dont believe the length from the plenum to the throttle body would make much of a difference.. thats like extending my intercooler piping a few feet longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 hey pro'x I think the calculation for the tuned runner length is from valve head to runner inlet, so that would mean where it first hit's a larger air space in comparison to the runner diameter or volume. the plenum exit (where the runner starts) would be where the measurement starts from. Is that what you did? In this case, you would have had to calculate passed your curve in the runners and up into where they touch the plenum, because it's still part of the small diameter runner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 The calculation is from the Center of the Intake Valve to the Throttle body.. I dont believe the length from the plenum to the throttle body would make much of a difference.. thats like extending my intercooler piping a few feet longer The length IS actually to the plenum. Or in the case of people using only velocity stacks, to end of the stack (actually the middle of the raduis). Once the throttle is wide open, the TB is taken out of the equasion. A very good article on induction design. http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/inductionsystems.pdf There are more but I don't have links at the moment, as most I've read were in actual paper based books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Good call guys! You are correct! My mistake! Apparently I need to do some more research! lol Im getting close to having some money to buy the aluminum bends for now.. I will calculate final measurements soon. I don't know how taper affects the equation though.. hmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 You mean the raduis at the end if the velocity stacks? You would take half the diameter of the radius, and subtract that from the total length, that is if you measured all the way to the end of the opening of the velocity stack, subtract half the raduis. For the small radii used in something like this it's only a change of usually about 1/4", when a 1/2" radius is used, which seems to be able average. Some of the more costly manifolds or the stack type intakes, that don't use a plenum I see upwards of about 1" radius, where that measurement might be a bit more critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 No no I meant taper.... the Taper goes from 2.5" OD on the bell mouth of the velocity stack, then 2" OD on the base of the velocity stack down the runners to the end of the throttle body where its about 1.7" OD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Ahh, yeah, I'm not sure either. Average diameter? *shrug* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Im guessing this might be what you were looking for. Im looking to make a intake with these similar to Prox's. These were off of a 6cyl Sabb DOHC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 wow! those were off a SAAB?! Holy crap I need to go visit a junkyard! lol Thank you soo much for the pics! What car was it off of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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