getoffmyinternet Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 Thanks for your input and interest. That thought did seem so crazy it might work, but really, I think I should be ready enough to start "now". I've actually been saving up money as fast as I've been buying parts to this point, and since my dad said he wants the peace of mind and doesn't want me driving his truck forever, he's going to pitch in for the mounts. Works for me! I'm just waiting for infinity machining to finish carving them for me. The "only" parts left will be the ones that I have to figure out after the engine is mounted. By that time, I'll have more money, the rest of the parts will have arrived, and the things that needed fixing will be fixed. The day I can get that cherry picker on loan is the day the battle begins. Then it's trans mount fab, fuel lines, drive shaft, and exhaust. I'm still tinkering with exhaust ideas, if anyone has an opinion on the matter. Also, I don't know what I was thinking before, the trans came with the slip yoke, so there's no counting and finding business, I'll just get a shop to match the u-joint and connect it at length to the rear end that they'll cut off of my current drive shaft. I'm hoping it will be a fairly inexpensive job... Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Okay, I've been pretty lazy in uploading the latest, but I have a bunch of pictures to go through. This is for the oil pan. Well, the 300zx pan does bolt up once you remove the baffles, but it runs right across the pickup tube. And what erked me most about this is that while they decided to add a flange and holes to mount the new 300zx pickup (which would fit perfectly with the new pan), they failed to make the channel actually run to that flange. At first I thought all you had to do was drill it out, but nope. That flange doesn't go anywhere. The channel stops a mere inch before hitting it. I had several ideas for making this work, and decided to go with cutting the old pickup and running a tube from it into the new pickup a few inches away, then making a bubble around the area on the pan so that they fit inside. That way I don't have to worry about any welding or tapping into the block itself--having to remove all the internals and whatnot and taking it to a machine shop or something would be quite bothersome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 Well my fuel rail is looking good now, and I decided to paint it blue with a can I found in the garage. I ended up buying three more and taking off the valve covers and whatnot to paint those too. I think it looks good enough that I'm also going to paint the intake manifold to match. The black paint didn't stick o the "RB26" so I decided rather than mask it again, I'd just sand off what was left with a fine grit and it ended up looking even better that way. You'll also notice that I put tape over marks I made around the cam sensor so I could line it up the way it was before. I really didn't want to have to mess with that...I hope it stays looking this good for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 The old mounts Removed wiring I sanded the fly a little by hand and it seems to be in better shape than I initially thought, so I'm going to go with it. Yay! More broken things! The caps on three injectors were done for when I took them out. I couldn't find any pieces, but I don't think it will cause any problems. I already ordered a set of 4 on ebay. The plug for the ignitor is also broken. I didn't even notice at first when I was trying to unsnap it and it just came out. It seems like it will still work since all the teeth are fine, I just need to make sure it stays in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Looking good buddy. I would recommend getting the flywheel surfaced. About 50 bucks and worth every penny. You don't want to have to pull everything apart after 6 months like I did. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 Thanks for your concern. I think the picture makes it look worse than it is, which Is why I at first thought it would need to be resurfaced, but to the touch it doesn't really feel pitted at all after just a light sanding. Down the line I plan on getting a new rear end anyway, so if it turns out to be worse I don't think it will be much harder to do it then. Perhaps by then I'll be able to afford a new fly if anyone recommends it. This one weighs 21 pounds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 your setup is looking pretty awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 12, 2008 Author Share Posted January 12, 2008 Okay, so I finally got the cherry picker today, and took out the old motor. Time for a little semigloss on the bay. Also, the injectors arrived, so after I paint the intake manifold the engine will be made whole again. The welder said the custom oil pickup is ready, so hopefully it will fit together properly. Just a few more steps before the dawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 This is for the oil pan. Well, the 300zx pan does bolt up once you remove the baffles 300zx pan? from which engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 13, 2008 Author Share Posted January 13, 2008 The Japanese market RB20. It uses the narrower bolt pattern than the beefier awd pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 Pictures I forgot to include. Old and busted...* As clean as dirt gets. *It's actually not busted, but it is actually for sale. If anyone wants some info, let me know. I'd be willing to part it out and sell the 5spd separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 200ZR pan. I got one of those already. Infact, that's one of the only things I didn't take pics of Mostly because I might not use it (it might be for sale, then!) and because I think I might have to use the RB25 pan, which is a better starting point anyway, especially with S14 front crossmember. you're...... you're removing the green from the engine bay? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. paint the RB green! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 The green. And the black. And the red. and the grey. And whatever else is in there. Semigloss black bay now. I was thinking of matching the engine to the car, but I couldn't picture an engine being green, and unless it matched the exterior perfectly, it would be a waste. Green is good for a car, partly because it's not so common, but if and when I ever have to redo this cheap paint job I'll probably go gunmetal grey or something like that and I don't want to paint the engine again to match second time around. Oh duh you meant that's the pan I have. Yeah it's from a Z31 of sorts at least. I couldn't exactly go to a pick a part place to get one like some of you guys. Oh yeah? Well how about that California weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 I sanded a few little spots in the bay, and took care of all the surface rust around the battery tray. I made it look like the car was undergoing open heart surgery, then rattled the whole thing with 4 cans of semi-gloss black. Not too bad if I do say so myself. It's not perfect, but came out better than I thought it would, and needless to say it is much better than it was before. A little more rust protection as well since I laid it on the tray area like molasses. The oil pickup is ready now and I made a gasket for each flange and glued it down. I didn't see the need to fill the hole on the new flange, the gasket should do fine. I also got the pan ready. The hole I had to cut ended up being much smaller than I thought I would need to make it. There was an embossed rib that goes around the pan that I beat down from the inside after grinding off the bottom of it that was connected to the flange of the pan, so now there's just a small seam running across it that will be welded shut. Also on the inside you can see where I cut away part of the baffle for vertical clearance. The pocket to be fitted this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 I forgot to mention that because one of the holes on the flange is too close to the pocket to get a screw into, the pocket will actually be made square around the hole with a snorkel to the outside for a longer screw to be easily accessible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun dave Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Great thread i like the way you have done the oil pipe pick up keep up the good work (insperation to get mine finished here in UK) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 Rick Wong's mounts are a hell of a lot cheaper than the subpar competition. They should hold up well. The bolt holes are pretty large for the bolts just like in the old mounts, and to prevent wear it might be a good idea to get steel sleeves for the bolts or at least bolts that aren't threaded all the way to the head. The same isolators as on my friend's 1972 dodge dart. I've heard they put the engine a little farther back than the supra ones. They look like they will fit snug too. 4 bucks. 6 ohm resistors off ebay for under 10 bucks. The pan after welding completed. It looks pretty sloppy but who gives a rip? Some preemptive wiring or lack thereof. Numbered all the wires I think might be important. On the ground are the six hot wires to the dropping resistor, and a couple others that were also on the two 8 piece plugs. On the top are a bunch of leftovers from the white plugs that go to something other than abs, a/c, power steering, and whatever else my car doesn't have. The firewall grommet is much too gooey to bother actually removing the wires I cut out right now, so I'm just going to wrap them in the mix. I need to either use my old oil sending unit or get a new one and get a fuel filter, both of which I have been putting off. Also, my old engine went to my buddy in an engine rebuilding class. He discovered that it was actually an L28 with an E88 head, and some strange aftermarket cams. Ewe! He will likely find that the crank bearings are all shot as well and the balancer is bent, making for a fun semester. His teacher has never heard of SU carbs though! Needless to say the class was surprised when they took the carbs off and spilled oil all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 how much were those motor mounts? They look reeeeal purdy in the picture. As for your buddy's teacher.. must be an american car guy SU carburetors are on many many english automobiles and motorcycles, and I have also seen them on Fiats. They probably came on other makes as well; they are almost as common as webers in europe, and probably as common as any other brand (solex, dellorto.. and I know im forgetting at LEAST one that belongs on this list) PLUS, the hitachi SU ripoffs were used on virtually all datsuns sold with sidedraft carburetors... (The More You Know: datsun "SU's" are most assuredly NOT genuine SU carburetors, but instead direct copies made by hitachi. ) Sorry, I just had to rip on a shop teacher who "had never seen an SU." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 $275 shipped. Nobody has real SU's anymore. I'm still trying to think of the motorcycles popularly imported to the US that also have these carbs. I think those same motorcycles have springless valves, and some other irregular features designed for better fuel economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I know nortons and triumphs came with SU carbs, but my points were all in the past tense. IMHO, not recognizing an SU is about on par with not recognizing a weber..... but thats just me. Obviously everyone isn't going to be barking up every tree.... it just kinda blew my mind. Spilling oil out of the carb is another thing; we all make mistakes. Ever tip a datsun manual transmission bellhousing end up without a drive axle in the back? Get the kitty litter out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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