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Auxiliary Air Control Valve


Guest Jakor

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vehicle:

82 280zx turbo

 

The Auxiliary Air Control Valve (looks like an egr valve but on top of the intake not on the end of it), is it possible to remove this or replace this without a new computer. The diaphragm broke inside of it and the dealer wants $200 for it. I have tried holding my hand over the exposed valve, but it runs extremely rough then dies. I didn't know if there was a way to make a block off valve and still trick the computer into thinking it was there.

 

thanks for the help

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It's been running extremely rough from a cold start. It runs this rough until you get it up above 3k rpms at least once. Then it runs pretty decent, except it never gets power under full throttle about 3/4 throttle is about it otherwise it runs rough. Just recently it's also picked up a problem (most likely with the tps) where it'll start roaming at idle when it's still cold.

The first problem the dealer said could be cause by this auxiliary valve being out, although I think the tps could be bad as well. Do the tps' interchange between a turbo and non turbo? We have a non-turbo in our local junkyard.

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Do the tps' interchange between a turbo and non turbo? We have a non-turbo in our local junkyard.

 

I know that the '82T uses only two wires for the TPS. I would think that an n/a 3-wire TPS should work.

 

When the throttle is closed, there is resistance between two of the terminals, when the throttle is cracked open, there is infinite resistance (open circuit). Easy to check with a multi-meter...I don't recall offhand what the closed resistance should be, but I can check it out for you once I get home if you'd like.

 

HTH

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So the tps on these cars is all or nothing? So if the throttle is shut, it would complete the circuit but offer a certain resistance. If the throttle is open slightly, the circuit is broken altogether. So then why would any resistance be necessary? Just whether it is open or closed.

 

Every other tps I have ran into all have a button which moves in and out but steps the resistance up. I had the intake off yesterday. They tuck that throttle body in there tight =p.

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  • 5 months later...

i removed my AAC and it did not change a thing. i am having a problem with my n/a 83 if any on can hlp me. it was running fine and i swapped a n42 intake on it with a 240sx tb and now it idles realy rough, runs extremely rich(smokes alot) and at wide open throttle it completey does not fire and the motor dies. and also my intake manifold gets soo sold that it starts to condensate on the outside.

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The RockAuto unit is actually a rebagged Nissan one. I just got one, and it's the new style adjustable unit. The port you see in the pic is actually an adjuster port for the screwdriver. So you can manually adjust your idle now. I yanked out all my vaccum modulator crap when I installed mine, and it works perfectly.

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Your wandering idle is most likely from the AAC failure. What's happening is the VCM is turning vacuum to the AAC on and off to try and control the idle, but the diaphragm is most likely shot. So it adds vacuum to try and close the valve, but it won't hold vacuum and eventually reopens, etc.

 

You can remove the AAC, and use a block-off plate. You will then need to up your idle by adjusting the throttle stop screw on the side of the throttle body. It's locked into place with a 8mm nut on the underside of the throttle body. You can adjust the nut with a small open end wrench and that will turn the screw as well. Or at least it was turning the screw on my throttle body so I was able to adjust my idle up and bring my car to a much more stable idle.

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