Jump to content
HybridZ

Q45 Diff. Best way to go?


GLSHLE

Recommended Posts

I'm getting ready to move my car to it's second home, (jackstands) and open the Zcar $ Blackhole. Going thru and upgrading motor, should be getting close to 400 hp, upgrading tranny to 700r4, and the thing that parked it, blown r180. I really want this time to put my drivetrain wishlist to bed.

I've been reading posts till my heads spinning. So the question is, $2500 to put a Q45 setup with the TechotoyTuning parts, the best bang for the buck? My car is a daily driver with random beatings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is hoping someone smarter then me chimes in.

 

My own personal observation, is that a $2500 rear end setup is serious overkill for a 400hp motor.

 

If I were you I would swap an R200 in with a CV setup and an OBX LSD. I think you will be able to put down lots of power very reliably.

 

Poke around the forums and find the Jn'J photo of thier car with the front wheels 6-7' in the air with an R-200. Its a very strong rear-end.

 

EDIT; Here ya go. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129125

 

Evan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is what I got into my Q45 install

 

Q45 Diff - $35

4 cv joints- $40

4 cv boots- $38

280z stubs- traded for them

mas280 adapters- traded for them

Technotoys front mount-$150

MM axles with stops- $360

AZC Uprights and MS bar- $550

 

Damn, really didn't see how expensive it was until I just added it up. Either way I am happy with it. Is it worth it if your car is just a DD? I don't think so....some guys here are running r-200 out of the 280z's with no problem. Hope this helps.

 

Clive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my stuff cheap, but I traded a LSD R200 3.70 gear rear for two Q45s with adapters and extra parts, and then won an auction on ebay for a $100 for mustach bar, OEM front mount, and other misc. parts for the Q45. I paid Tim about $700 for a pair of Speedway engineering axles, and I'm trying to source the axle bolts right now.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike, which bolts are you trying to find excatly? I think I still have the part number for the bolts that hold the cv's together, 12 is needed, correct? I first sourced all my bolts from the junk yard, every junkyard has big buckets of bolts. I was able to dig threw and find all the bolts I needed for the swap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alternatively I have gone the R200 route. I would do it again, but I haven't put much thought into it and I haven't run the car yet. From everything I have heard though the strength should not be an issue at all. Heres my break down:

 

-300zx 3.7:1 Open Diff and Driveshaft: $100

-Modern-Motorsports CV Adapters: $225

-280z Stub Axles: $50

-300zxT CV's: $70

-PG Power Brute CLSD: $500

-Ron Tyler front Diff mount: ~$65

-Rebuild of R200 w/ installation of CLSD incl. parts: $350

 

Mine comes to $1,360. That being said I have a completely rebuilt differential with new bearings and new 2-Way CLSD unit. I also have a finned cover and the brace for it, paid ~$75 for the two. If you like to roll on a used CLSD then you can get them from the yard for $70 if you find them (I have found 2 in my ~4 years in the yard @ $70 each, bought another 1 for $495 and a 4.375:1 LSD for somewhere around $600) or ~$600 if you look a while/get lucky on Ebay. I visit the yard about 4-5 times a year just for perspective. In either case, my rebuilt LSD cost a total of $920. If you find one in the yard... your looking at only spending $510 for a CLSD setup. Granted it will be used and it is the non-competition unit, but hey, its cheap-er. If you got sandy bearings like me though... it might be worth it to just open it up in which case might as well do a fresh LSD imho...

 

About the OBX... In my personal opinion I would just skip it. I did because the competition CLSD was only $100 more and it is of known (+/- OEM) quality. I have read about replacing washers in the OBX, but I do believe also reading continued problems after doing this. I just steered clear and I am glad I did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And the head goes round and round. The strength of the r200 is not in question. Your numbers look right to have it in the car. If I got a used clsd, I would go thru it. I don't think the Q45 install is that much more difficult than the r200 because I'm going to do all the bushing while I'm there. I'm taking it that the techotoy setup as took the engineering and fab. out of it, so it's pretty much a bolt in? For the differents In dollars, I get coilovers and disk brakes, which means new wheels, which means off to the front end I go.(Boy, I just blew past that $2500. in a big way, but all things I want to do.) I'm putting in a 700r4, so I have to play with the driveshaft anyway.

 

All that said, It come down to reliablity. used VLSD verse HLSD verse rebuilt CLSD. Driveablity and performance when I need it.

 

Still thinking longnose r200, But....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is why I am going with the Techno Toy Q45 conversion.

1) Cost of the complete 2000 Q45 differential assembly was only $400

2) The Q45 is basically a short nosed R200 but has a factory LSD opposed to my phantom grip long nosed R200.

3) The R200 diff itself is not the problem; the small half shaft u joints being subjected to rear squat angles and tiny stub axles thatl break if you use sticky tires. Been there, done that and it is nasty.

4) Five on 4.5 lug pattern open up all sorts of possibilities for aftermarket wheels without the cost of custom wheels,

5) Disc brakes are standard, a 4 piston Arizona Z Car conversion costs almost a grand.

6) Rear camber plates are not necessary to be able to adjust the camber. Camber plates run about $200.

7) The CV joints and axles are huge on the Q45 and are being replaced by Mosler racing axles now.

8) My coil over kit and Tokico adjustables will fit.

 

I expect my cost to be $1480 for Techno, $400 for the used assembly, $100 for brake R and R., $200 for a new longer driveshaft and coupler, $400 for a pair of road race tires, $400 for a pair of drag slicks. I already have a set of 350Z wheels that may or may not work due to the funny offset of that wheel. Over $3K would be more accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Update: The 2000 Model Infiinity Q45 and later has a pressed in hub assembly, not bolt in, which will not work with the Techno Toy Conversion. Gabe is sending me an older style bolt in 5 lug hub to try with my caliper, e brake, and rotor from the 2000 Q45. I am having difficulty finding what I need because the 240SX drift kids are eating up all of the 90-96 Z model hub assemblies here.

 

There is a standard differential coupler that will work with the short nosed R200 and 1310 Chevy U Joint. I will get and post the part number if anyone is interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
Update: ...

 

There is a standard differential coupler that will work with the short nosed R200 and 1310 Chevy U Joint. I will get and post the part number if anyone is interested.

 

YES! We are very much interested.

 

Thank you,

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YES! We are very much interested.

 

Thank you,

Paul

 

With my parts luck lately, I am taking the Q45 R200 down to the driveshaft shop tomorrow to ensure it is the correct coupler bolts and all. It is made by Powertrain Industries in California. Part number 3102-69. I will confirm Friday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am going to do the Q45 rearend swap currently have all the q45 parts but i am lacking the halfshaft/ halfshaft adapters, mustashe bar and front mount. I noticed the parts lists and was wonder what everyone did for the drive shaft?

 

-Brian

I have had custom driveshafts built locally since balancing and measurement is critical to allow for 3/4 inch movement. The yoke is dependent on the transmission but you can readily get matching 1310 Chevy non lubricated joints. Originally I had the JTR hd differential coupler but now that I am moving to the short nose Q45, I am using a new coupler as previously noted but staying with 1310 joint. The new coupler is significantly larger and stronger and uses 12mm instead of 8 mm bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YES! We are very much interested.

 

Thank you,

Paul

 

The part listed is an absolutely perfect fit both for the bolts and the hub!

This differential is from a 2000 model Q45 T Infiniity. I have no idea if there are differences in the earlier models or 90-96 300Z's. You may want to visit you local driveshaft specialist and take the rear end with you like I did. LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update on the Q45 assembly: I received the S14 hubs from Techno Toy but decided to bite the bullet and not use the 2000 Model Infinity assembly. The 90-96 non turbo hub assemblies are hard to find around here. They are a 29 spline 5 star output coupler which may be too weak for my SBC. If anyone is interested in this short nosed R200 and axles, etc., let me know. I found a 80K mile 90 Model TT R230 (which Gabe calls overkill) but it was available for $300 with the hubs and axles. It is a viscous LSD. I can't believe the weight. It will give you hernia to lift by yourself. I am swapping the Q45 coupler I have for part number 3102-42 which also uses a 1310 U joint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...