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Mike Kelly's Zcar Project


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Now if I could only make these work on the Zcar:

 

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$217 per set shipped... Who knew that Porsche parts could get so cheap! They're 350MM in diameter and 34MM thick.

 

So today I'm going to change the oil on the GT3 and swap pads/rotors. It needs it badly... Then I'm going to instal the 140 amp alternator on the Zcar, along with the Prothane motor mounts... Then I'll start trying to lay out the wiring overhaul...

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
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So I got the prothane motor mounts installed this morning, after removing the exhaust...

 

Riddle me this.. Why is it that I keep cooking collector gaskets? Pulled the plugs and looked at them and they didn't seem grey or white, so I know I'm not running lean. This is what's happening:

 

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The mounts installed:

 

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And I just bought this to deal with the gauge issues:

 

http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/FS-'Dash/Data%20Logger'-0.aspx

 

Guy on Racingjunk had one un-opened for about $300 less than they retail for...

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
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Exhaust flange warped from over tightening????? Can you put a straight edge on it? Is copper perhaps more heat resistant?? Do you have a flex section in exhaust to reduce vibration? I'm watching to see what you learn. I am running aluminum gaskets with stainless bolts and the bolts need tightening regularly....I have a long section of unsupported tubing after the collector with no flex section....

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Mike, I agree with RebekahsZ - you might try a copper gasket - I've had good luck with the thin ones with a bead.

And yeah, make sure those flanges are flat. Note that a non-flat gasket (like the beaded ones) will cause a too-thin flange to bend out of flat when heat and tight bolts are combined.

 

@RebekahsZ: I used to use Stainless bolts here and that galled together. Even high temp anti-seize was not a sure bet to keep that from happening. I went to Grade 5 bolts and brass nuts and this worked well (with high-temp anti-seize). But they still come a bit loose. Split lock washers work for a while, but the heat takes the spring away from them. The OE's use actual springs under the nuts in some applications to keep things tight. I've never gone that far.

Edited by pparaska
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Well I'm going to attempt to address this issue by installing some 2.516 inch diameter high temp ceramic donut gaskets. We'll bevel the pipes to match the 30-45 degree angle of the donut and run some longer bolts with springs. I'm hoping this will resolve the issue. Stopped at my local speed shop yesterday and Gary the old timer there gave me some tangs to weld onto the setup to add "bolting points" if I choose to.

 

Mike

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Well I'm going to attempt to address this issue by installing some 2.516 inch diameter high temp ceramic donut gaskets. We'll bevel the pipes to match the 30-45 degree angle of the donut and run some longer bolts with springs. I'm hoping this will resolve the issue. Stopped at my local speed shop yesterday and Gary the old timer there gave me some tangs to weld onto the setup to add "bolting points" if I choose to.

 

Mike

 

Mike:

 

Keep up the GOOD work. Learning valuable advice from reading these posts. Specifically, bolts seizing at the exhaust collector flange. I spot welded clinched self locking nuts to the upper portion of the header exhaust flange. WRONG! Need to run a tap one each of the self locking nuts to remove self locking attribute. Also need High Temp Anti Seize compound on the bolts which thread up from the bottom into the nuts on top. You guys keep the details coming as there are MANY lessons to be learned from what you post!

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Addressed a number of the issues over the last couple days. The exhaust is back on the car. Hopefully it'll not cause issues again, but who knows. I'm awaiting the touch screen display for the FAST dash, but everything else is done on my shortlist except for the wiring. As of now, I'm ditching the wipers, turn signal and light stalk., We're going to ditch a lot of wiring and a lot of Stuff" not required. This coming week will be a "big" week for changed to the car. I hope to have it at VIR August 27-28!

 

Mike

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Got some work accomplished this afternoon...

 

Removed the dash

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to find a rats nest...

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Removed this:

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I'm going to make a new dash that will be smaller, and will install this:

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First I'm going to have to clean up the wiring and make some sense of it all...

 

Lots of work ahead of me!

 

Mike

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All I know is this illustrates when you install a wiring harness in a caged car, and then "add" things over "time". What was I thinking...

 

So kids, we're getting rid of the column stalk all together, no more turn signals/wipers/lights. That fuse block and wiring is going up for sale, and we're going to wire in only circuits for the following:

 

FAST EFI Computer - two 12V constant and one 30Amp Circuit

MSD Digital 6 - on 12v constant and one 30Amp Circuit

MSD Coil - one 15Amp Circuit

Accusump - one 20Amp Circuit

Fuel Gauge - one 10Amp Circuit

Brake lights - one 10Amp Circuit

Elec fan - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant

Fuel pump - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant

Helmeet Blower - one 20Amp Circuit

Cool suit - one 25Amp Circuit

 

The goal:

We will NOT have a hodgepodge of wiring dangling under the dash anymore.

We will be able to trace and troubleshoot circuits at the track without issue.

We will not be required to be contortionists to get access to said circuits.

 

Gonna be a long two weeks...

Mike

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We will NOT have a hodgepodge of wiring dangling under the dash anymore.

We will be able to trace and troubleshoot circuits at the track without issue.

We will not be required to be contortionists to get access to said circuits.

 

Good deal Mike. I'm picking up a 25ft/25pin serial printer cable (different colors 16gauge around $10-$12) to re-run my SDS behind the seat and have runs for constant 12v from the starter, keyed 12v all with inline fuse and dedicated ground from a distro block.

 

Anything outside of the cockpit will be wrapped in Raychem DR-25 Heat Shrink Tubing and Nomex fireproof braided sleeving.

 

You might want to add an extra run to say the fuel pump just in case. I plan on doing it right for the last time.. :)

 

Where's Thomas is he partaking??

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I'm currently trying to make a love connection between Tommy and Jim on the red Zcar. Haven't broached the subject of wiring the Zcar up yet... Still need to get over to his place and get him to help me section some front struts.

 

Mike

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Addressed a number of the issues over the last couple days. The exhaust is back on the car. Hopefully it'll not cause issues again, but who knows. I'm awaiting the touch screen display for the FAST dash, but everything else is done on my shortlist except for the wiring. As of now, I'm ditching the wipers, turn signal and light stalk., We're going to ditch a lot of wiring and a lot of Stuff" not required. This coming week will be a "big" week for changed to the car. I hope to have it at VIR August 27-28!

 

Mike

 

Now your talkin.

 

Get rid of all the stuff you dont use anyway. I was about ready to order a set of H2O slicks and it dawned on me. I dont drive my car on track in the rain. First and formost...........I cant afford to make a silly mistake in the wet and it set me back $$$ I dont have. Car is too light and too powerful for those conditions. This is your track car and every ouce counts. I know guys who take out all the wiring and housing on the tail lights except for one light. Thats really all you need is one light the rest is just extra.

 

The CF dash I made has worked out real well and I've been very happy with it.

 

Whats going on at VIR at the end of August? Maybe I'll come up and visit.

 

Matt

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