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Mike Kelly's Zcar Project


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One to many zeros on your end and 10 to many years on my end!

Mike I had the black centers and had the wheels refinished this summer. I had them clear the wheels so they can stand up to track day abuse!  

Some of you might recall about 12 years ago the missus and I drove to Atlanta to pick up a Gnose for my project. Les Heath borrowed it to make a buck for molds. Les fell off earths face and has neve

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Managed to completely disassemble one of the Ford Truck axles and will document the other one tomorrow when I tear into it.

 

You want to start from the inboard side, removing the cap of the inner joint. Take a pair of snapring pliers and remove the ring from the axle asseembly then remove all the ball bearings and use a gear puller to pull the joint off the axle. Cut the CV boot straps taking care not to cut the boots. You will want to reuse them.

 

The key is definitely getting the axle cut as close to the outer nuckle as possible so you can rotate it 180 degrees after you remove all of the ball bearings. Messy job for sure. Def. plan to clean these well gang... Parts cleaner is pretty much mandatory.

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Managed to completely disassemble one of the Ford Truck axles and will document the other one tomorrow when I tear into it.

 

You want to start from the inboard side, removing the cap of the inner joint. Take a pair of snapring pliers and remove the ring from the axle asseembly then remove all the ball bearings and use a gear puller to pull the joint off the axle. Cut the CV boot straps taking care not to cut the boots. You will want to reuse them.

 

The key is definitely getting the axle cut as close to the outer nuckle as possible so you can rotate it 180 degrees after you remove all of the ball bearings. Messy job for sure. Def. plan to clean these well gang... Parts cleaner is pretty much mandatory.

 

Finally looked at your thread over here. PM/email me what the new spindle bolts cost you from AZC and I'll refund it for the troubles, the least I can do for making you waste 4+ hours fixing my mistake. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

 

-Will

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Will, dont worry about it. Only reason I brought it up is so the next batch would be addressed for future buyers!

Managed to disassemble the second axle and get all parts soaking in the parts washer tonight!  Did not take pictures due to how simple this process should be.  You need something to cut the boot straps with, snap ring plyers to remove the inboard snap ring, a manget on a wand to help with fishing the balls out of the joints, a gear puller to pull the inner knuckle off the axle, a grinder with cut-off wheel, and they key to the outboard side is really cutting within half an inch of the nuckle.  You will also need to fish the inner clip out and pry it off the inboard axle when you flip it around.  Care should be taken NOT to cut into the bearing cage or nuckle, or the spindle.  Make sure to save all the boots so you can reuse them.

Mike

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Some of you think I've lost a few screws... Well that's not quite the case... lost a ball... bearing... These Ford F1504X4 CV axle outboard joints come with 6 each, which are a different size than the inboard joints... And I managed to have one come up MIA... Gonna be a loooong Saturday morning... lost it last night... I got nuthin'

 

Ugh... On the upside ONE of the joints is reassembled.  For those following along, it's a PITA to re-assemble them and requires a fair amount of force to get all 6 bearings back into the cage.  Very minimal articulation with all 6 inplace as well...

 

 

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I lost my balls a few years back when we decided to quit having kids....as they all go off to college I'm rather regretting it. Get some damn sleep, Mike, it will be easy to find in the morning. I'm in day 2 of cleaning my shop-I'll PM you if I find a strange ball bearing that has leapt thru the worm hole in the hybridz space-time continuum.

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Wow Mike. Hadn't read the thread in a while (been building a 510 and general life getting in the way of my z). Good to see you are still at it, I've thought about selling mine quite a few times lately as I've been pushing it in and out of the shed to work on the 510. Sat down in it last week and remembered how much I liked it, I'll get back to it one day.

 

Keep at it, I'm sure track day will be a beautiful day.

 

P.s. I had the balls fall out of a cv before. Shit of a job getting them back in.

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Managed to get a fair amount done in a short hour in the shop.  Cut down the Intrepid hubs to clear the wheels, pressed fifth gear in place on final assembly for the T56, and I assembled and safety wired the wilwood rotors.  I have to return some parts to Summit Racing (wrong rotor bolts and wrong 8.8 axle seals) and I need to order some long ARP studs and the right seals.  Otherwise, all is coming together!

 

 

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So here is the assembly, Starting from the outside spline inboard... The OUTER JOINT and 31 spline setup is from a FORD F150 4X4. The spline matches the female spline on the Intrepid hub. The spline also matches the axle from the Sandrail supply companies out there, as well as the Porsche 930 style setups. From there you go inboard for the Porsche style inner CV joint. That unit mounts to a custom flange that welds to the INNER splined Ford Explorer CV axle, which matches the FORD 8.8 differential.

You have to have a script to keep up with all the parts. The total cost on the CV axles is just under $500 for the pair.  To put it into perspective, I had $1100 in the Q45 axles that Tim240Z built for me way back in the early 2000s.

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Managed to finally get the hubs and rear brakes installed... Those .625 knurl ARP studs are NOT the proper size.  The knurl information I found online was clearly incorrect.  Had to drill them out by hand and man did it suck... In the process of installing the differential now... Note on the 8.8 install, the mustache bar should be assembled and installed and THEN install the differential... The bolts go thru the uprights that hold the rear of the control arms in place... 

 

Getting there...

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