280Z Turbo Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 I have an '81 L28ET in my '76 and I'd like to replace the oil cooler lines and fittings. The long, bulky hoses and the extra long banjo fittings take up most of the right half of my engine bay! With the intercooler going in soon, they are a huge pain to work around. They are starting to crack and just make my engine bay look ugly. Also, the O-Ring between the aluminum oil cooler adapter and the block seems to be leaking. What thread type are the fittings? What are my options for getting rid of the banjo fittings and keeping the stock oil cooler? Where can I find that O-ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 The fittings are Metric, you can get an adapter to a standard thread. They are kinda pricey but well worth it. In your case, you'd need two sets of adapters, for each side. On the cooler block adapter, you need 2 o-rings. The large one you should be able to find in inches pretty easily. I think it's really close to 2.5in. The inner one is a small enough metric size that you should be able to find at a hardware store. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Z Turbo Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 What is the thread size of the fittings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I ran mine with A/N adapters, was a 10m IIRC, might have been 12m, just take the banjo bolt to your local hydraulic fitting shop, you can get JIC adapters for much less than A/N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 The fittings on the stock cooler are a 45 SAE fitting, they ARE NOT Jic 37 degree-AN (ask me how I know this!) If you find the proper metric straight thread to AN/JIC adapter, then standard 'AN' fittings will work. I think the thread for the banjos are 1.5 pitch as I recall. It's posted somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 it must be a bitch living in a imperial world with metric cars... Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 put in a 5 speed you won't need the oil cooler. clean that engine bay right up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 put in a 5 speed you won't need the oil cooler. clean that engine bay right up USDM turbo AUTO engine blocks come stock with an engine oil cooler adapter... Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Where can I find that O-ring? I purchased a bag of the adaptor to block o-rings from McMasters when I could not find just one. Just pay for postage. Sadly, I still haven't hooked up the cooler or driven the Z for that matter, in a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 put in a 5 speed you won't need the oil cooler. clean that engine bay right up And why would that be? Euro Turbo Cars ALL had an oil cooler, auto AND 5 speed. They also had Differential Coolers. Chances are good if you are doing freeway driving for long distances, or exuberant driving, the oil cooler is a good thing to have... The reason for the oil cooler is the freeway operation RPM with the Automatic. It's much higher than with the 5 speed (here in the USA at least), and that added rpms means more heat to dissipate through the oil system. If you drive fast, that oil cooler is something you want. I install them on my cars with a Thermostat (OilStat)... If your oil temperature is much about 240 degrees F, you should consider retrofitting an oil cooler to any L-Engine you may have... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 The fittings on the stock cooler are a 45 SAE fitting, they ARE NOT Jic 37 degree-AN (ask me how I know this!) If you find the proper metric straight thread to AN/JIC adapter, then standard 'AN' fittings will work. I think the thread for the banjos are 1.5 pitch as I recall. It's posted somewhere. no one said they were JIC or A/N, I said I adapted mine to A/N and that JIC's are the same thing in metal and easier to locate in metric form from my ecperience, he wants to get rid of the giant banjo bolts and heavy multiple part lines, using a/n or jic fitting to adapt form the metric thread to the more common jic or a/n makes it much easier to reroute lines or install bigger cooler or whatever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShinyRedZ Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Bolts for the banjo fittings are M18 x 1.5, the o-rings are Nissan part #21334-R2400 for the large one, and #21311-V0700 for the small one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 The stock flares are not JIC/AN, they are 45 degree SAE. The JIC/AN are 37 degree... The important number to have is the straight thread for the banjoes, so you can put on what fitting you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I think the bolts are the same as the ones used on the water cooling for Z31 turbos. If so, then you have another choice on the metal lines from said turbo which you can swage oil lines to. Might be wrong but I think I just did this last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 The stock flares are not JIC/AN, they are 45 degree SAE.The JIC/AN are 37 degree... The important number to have is the straight thread for the banjoes, so you can put on what fitting you want. OMG, does no one read the whole thread, no one said they were the same as a/n, jic, I said to use a metric to a/n or jic fitting, the origional post was to get rid of the stock bolts and hoses as they don't fot the S30 chassis, by using the adpater you can get new lines and a new cooler that uses n/a, jic fittings, no one ever said they were compatible with the stock junk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Actually I don't know what you are talking about. Did YOU read the thread. Someone stated that 'nobody said if they were JIC/AN'---but you did say you converted yours to AN. That leaves open the possibility that someone would think that WITHOUT CHANGING THE COOLER you can simply adapt to AN and run them as replacement lines. Not unless you do ALL the fittings to AN. You only stated you have to get a "new cooler" in your last post. I guess you finally read the whole thread and got the gist of it? I don't know why stock lines 'dont work in an S30'...they seem fine in my wife's 74 260Z-T conversion... As a review of the original post that precipitate the warning: "I ran mine with A/N adapters, was a 10m IIRC, might have been 12m, just take the banjo bolt to your local hydraulic fitting shop, you can get JIC adapters for much less than A/N " Absolutely right, no body saying they were the same as stock. Also no mention whatsoever that you need to replace the cooler, just a contention that you changed adapters...what other inference are we to draw from such a post? I guess warning people of the incompatibility is the wrong thing to do should someone misconstrue your post. Hence mine. If it's such a terrible transgression to inform people of a possible fitting incompatibility, I will remove all my 'useless' posts in this thread, under the understanding that this misleading post be removed as well, since it calls for M10, or M12, 'or something'... When in a glass house, consider heavily the need to throw stones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxtman Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Another option, rather than using an adapter, is to weld on the fitting of your choice. That's what I did with an AN aluminum weld-in bung. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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