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Subaru EG33 + My car!


G.I.jonas

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You might want to phone them up and see if there is a reason why it couldn't work with a Muncie, or any other SBC transmission.

 

And if you have the ability to, make your own :D

Depends on how much they want, they have already done all the work on it.

 

EDIT

What sort of custom parts would you possibly need for a manual? Flywheel and associated bits?

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EDIT

What sort of custom parts would you possibly need for a manual? Flywheel and associated bits?

That part is easy,its all the same as any ej,meaning i can use WRX stuff :-)

 

 

Edit* Unfortunately i am having seconds thoughts on this lol.I have been thinking on this a while and the problem im seeing now is steering linkage :-(.It seems that for this to work i would have to run a steering shaft over the top of the motor could be done - just another one of those not exactly bolt on problems.I prefer to do things the hard way and i like to pioneer stuff but the car has been idle for a long time and i would like something not too ridiculous as i still have a lot of other crap to do as well.All things will be weighed first to see if its worth starting.

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They probably suggest the TH400, because that's what the customer was using, so they know it works with that combination.

 

It would also work equally as well with a TH350, and 700R4, hell throw the 4L60, 4L60E and 4L80E in there as well.

 

I could see it working with SBC pattern manuals as well, as I'm sure there is an adaptor between the Subie crank and the what looks to be a SBC flexplate, so you could likely bolt a SBC flywheel onto that, which now opens the possibility of trannies WIDE open, Liberty, Borg Warner (TKO? ;) ), among other VERY strong trannies. Lenco? haha, that would be sweet, clutchless manual FTW!

 

This is the angle I'll likely have to go with my proposed engine, since I will be looking at using a TKO (at this point), which doesn't offer the bellhousing pattern that I need. Adapting anything to a GM or Ford pattern will open up more possible tranny optiuons than you could believe.

There just aren't too many AWD combinations available, at least not in manual versions using the SBC bellhousing pattern. I know AWD is not in the scope of this project, but I just wanted to mention that tidbit.

 

Steering would be one of the easier parts to deal with in this conversion.

 

If it were me doing this, I wouldn't try to go over the engine, I'd go under the driver side head.

Without setting the engine in place and only approximating the hight of that head, seeing as the centerline of the engine will be higher than a SBC conversion or even the original Datsun I6, using the original scooby oil pan. You could likely get away with lowering the firewall end of the steering column, so that the end is placed below the bottom of the head. The other end of the column would come up a bit but a spacer and the use of a smaller steering wheel could place it back where it's comfortable, using the original steering column. I think I'd nix the original column though and go for something with tilt, like a GM column from a late '80s or early '90s Cavalier (might be a bit short), or similar years S-series pick-ups. F-bodies of similar vintage would also allow you to shorten the steering column to the exact length needed, as I'm sure those would be a bit long.

 

I'm almost wondering as I sit here, if the bottom of the head might actually be above the frame rails, and even less modification might be neededs than previously thought. IIRC the CL hight difference was around 4" between a Scooby (EJ series was it?) and a SBC. How much hight is there between where the bottom of the pan would safely sit and the top of the frame rail? I'm sure that if the clearance isn't already there, that it might only take dropping the frame rail a few inches, behind the crossmember attachment point, back to the firewall, with the TC rod attachment point being sunk into the frame rails (to keep the same relative geomtry in the existing suspension). I would do this with new tube, of course, just to make that clear, might as well replace the entire frame rail if you're going that far, but just thinking about possible fitment solutions. I could see that working for the 4cyl versions, the 6 might be too long to keep the stock style crossmember.

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According to the "Z virtual tape measure", ther eis only about 7" difference between the bottom of the firewall and the top of the frame rail.

 

p><p>Now the oil pan will hang lower than the firewall, by a few inches, it doesn

 

Hmm, it looks like the distance between the bottom of the head and the bottom of the oil pan might not be as much as I remembered, though it's not explicity defined.

 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f380/rontyler/imprezaenginesize.jpg' alt='imprezaenginesize.jpg'>

 

I still think that a frame rail could be built below the heads, and possibly above (this is loosly the same idea as a motorcycle, where the frame surrounds the sides of the engine on many bikes. Some use a removable lower member, to allow "easy" removal of the engine).

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As you already know you can take a wrx transmission and weld the center diff to make it rwd. The problem is the stock 5 speed transmissons can only take roughly 300 whp. Some people have made them live at higher power levels but it's only a quick shift away from exploding. If you want to use a subaru trans, find a 6 speed from an STi. They are expensive but MUCH stronger than the 5 speeds.

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Edit* Unfortunately i am having seconds thoughts on this lol.I have been thinking on this a while and the problem im seeing now is steering linkage :-(.It seems that for this to work i would have to run a steering shaft over the top of the motor could be done - just another one of those not exactly bolt on problems....

 

Don't give up Jonas. Look at all the support you have going in this thread. Steering shafts can be rerouted, (Dave Lums VG30DETT 510, http://www.datsuns.com is good example as are a few other projects I've seen here in the past).

 

Then I want to see the EG33 in your Suby wagon too! (Blaze the trail for my Suby wagon EG33... :wink: )

 

Build it!!!! BUILD IT!!!! BUILD IT!!!

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If you build your frame rails over the motor then you can drop the engine and tranny right onto the ground and drag them out from under tha car. Much better IMO than the other way...

 

Steering is easy. Look at the modification MarcG did to have his steering clear his VH45 with stock headers in his 240Z.

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Don't give up Jonas. Look at all the support you have going in this thread. Steering shafts can be rerouted, (Dave Lums VG30DETT 510, www.datsuns.com is good example as are a few other projects I've seen here in the past).

 

Then I want to see the EG33 in your Suby wagon too! (Blaze the trail for my Suby wagon EG33... :wink: )

 

Build it!!!! BUILD IT!!!! BUILD IT!!!

Thanks,i really am impressed with the interest here i really do think its doable,however i learned today that the customer now wants the spare engine back :-(.The reason i started thinking about this is because it was a free engine!

 

Paul,i dont think my wagon needs one of these engines after driving the svx,my hill climb experiences can get scary enough with 1.8 power :-D.I will be going 2.2 this summer though.

 

I'll post back once i know for sure,maybe he will sell it cheap.

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  • 1 month later...

what about setting up the steering like it is in a honda?? My buddy had a 2003 civic SI, and the steering knuckles are much higher on the entire strut assembly than on most any other car I've ever seen. The steering rack sits up above and behind the motor. If you are going to have to tube-frame the front anyhow, then why not radically relocate the steering and redesign the front suspension?

 

Regarding the transmission, I discovered a long time ago that the spline count and shaft diameters of at LEAST the L-series engines, and the EA series engines, are the same. From what I understand, the EJ is the same as the EA. I have always thought it VERY likely that combining a soobie engine with a datsun or nissan gearbox would likely be a piece of cake. Maybe, for instance, the 4x4 out of a pickup truck... hmmm... is there any way to modify the center diff on that? :flamedevi Anyhow, I would say some research on using a nissan box (either the stocker, or a 240SX or Z32 unit that has been swapped in by many in the past and is already explored territory) might save some trailblazing fabrication on your part.

 

 

 

MY thought on a soobie engine in a Z has always been REAR engine, RWD.... FWD Impreza drivetrain anyone?? That, or twin engine it with an old EA82 on either axle :D

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  • 10 months later...

Regarding the transmission, I discovered a long time ago that the spline count and shaft diameters of at LEAST the L-series engines, and the EA series engines, are the same. From what I understand, the EJ is the same as the EA. I have always thought it VERY likely that combining a soobie engine with a datsun or nissan gearbox would likely be a piece of cake. Maybe, for instance, the 4x4 out of a pickup truck... hmmm... is there any way to modify the center diff on that? :flamedevi Anyhow, I would say some research on using a nissan box (either the stocker, or a 240SX or Z32 unit that has been swapped in by many in the past and is already explored territory) might save some trailblazing fabrication on your part.

 

This is interesting info for sure. I have a pair of EG33 motors that are currently being built with twin turbos. The problem I have been struggling with is that I keep blowing up stock drivetrains in my SVX (on a rather stock build).

I have the T-5 from my 82 turbo in my 73' 240 which could make my SVX rear drive if what you suggest is true. Thanks for the idea.

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This is interesting info for sure. I have a pair of EG33 motors that are currently being built with twin turbos. The problem I have been struggling with is that I keep blowing up stock drivetrains in my SVX (on a rather stock build).

I have the T-5 from my 82 turbo in my 73' 240 which could make my SVX rear drive if what you suggest is true. Thanks for the idea.

 

My information came from a hunch that was supplemented by parts website information.. I forget which, but I *think* rockautoparts.com was where I found diameters and spline counts on the various discs. I haven't had a chance to look at any of the parts, so it is all conjecture. I would LOVE to see something come of the stuff though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You could setup the steering like this fellow!http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982/3

 

Point the rack forward and then up over the engine - uses some FWD steering coupling from memory!

 

But this fellow stuffed in an engine only 800mm wide, stuffing in the Suby motor at 825.5mm is going to be tricky - it flat out wont fit between the strut towers, but isn't far enough away that you couldn't just notch them,

 

Wouldn't like to be the fellow changing your spark plugs though :-)!

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Looking at the pictures of the inside of the transmission, couldn't you just take out the final drive that goes to the front wheels? It's not like its an integral part of working the tranmission. I would just take it out so it would be less wieght, rotating weight as a matter of fact. I've thought about putting a WRX engine in my car here and there, but I want to stay Nissan. At least for now, if I come across one for cheap I would do it.

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How LONG is the EG? Compared to, oh, I dunno, say, a VQ35?

 

Theres a decent chance with some "simple" firewall modification "rolleyesg that the engine could be set up in RWD configuration just behind the strut towers.... *IF* you can get a RWD gearbox onto the silly thing, and have 245 NA factory horsepower coming from behind the front wheels. It all boils down to the gearbox.

 

The front diff carrier is not all that easy to remove from the Subaru gearbox, but it isn't that hard to just "cap off" as long as you have the right center carrier. The fundamental trouble is, Subaru only ever mated the EG33 to an automatic transmission that was not up to the task.. most SVXs out there are out there with bad transmissions, our they specifically say "good transmission" in some way. I know the impreza manual gearboxes are not simple to mount into the SVXs, but I can't recall how easy it is to put an EJ five speed onto the EG engine outside of the vehicle.

 

In my eyes I would want to get the hard parts to see if I could make a real RWD nissan gearbox go onto it, almost before putting any effort into an internet search on EJ transmissions onto EG33. You ARE talking about a 3.3 liter box 6 that has 240 or more in it BEFORE putting boost on it... A 300ZX transmission might be in order. The Subaru gearboxes just likely will not hold up to the task in RWD configuration.

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i agree with daeron... if one has the block, and clutch kit, and has access to a nissan FS5R30A trans from a Z32 or a Late Turbo Z31, as well as some 5/8ths MDF and a mill or a water jet cutter that's local... then I would start with that part first. Once you can get the car to actuate the clutch properly with combo setup, you could work on the other stuff...

 

modifying a chassis to work first and then finding the trans is incompatible or too hard to bother with is not the best idea.

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Just say "screw the transmission" and have the driveshaft coming right out the clutch and just have direct drive like a super modified oval track car, lol.

 

NOT entirely a bad idea; its just crazy enough to work. If we could make, what, 4-500 pounds of torque with this motor and get it into a vehicle package weighing ~2100 pounds, it might even work! Remember, its a bigger motor but there would be no tranny (and thats unsprung rotating mass removed, too)

 

May as well go hand-throttle... Oh wait, now I am building a subaru powered airplane or boat again.... I really need to get better control over my daydreaming.

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