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L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

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No need for a jig when everyone runs a different setup, now if everyone ran a gt3076 or something similar with the same piping, wastegate, A/c or not, Right or left hand drive....blah blah blah. There are wayyyy too many variations and what will be best is someone that has a good price, and can produce them. And doing so on an individual basis is the best you can get,which is what I am doing, the issue with doing it one by one is most shops wont do it for anything under 1k like youve gotten quoted because "its not a b series honda" and they dont think the demand is there.

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I think what johnc here and the other great admins are getting at here are. Stop the arguments, if you are going to get a header made, do it and get them made, then sell them. If not close the threads and stop discussing it. I think that the 1,000 price sounds fair and should work fine for anybody willing to spend that with most turbo. I mean we have seen many people running a gt35r on a stock mani. Which is by no means small and you really don't need anything bigger than it single turbo otherwise lag will suck. I already have an infaction and have learned the admins don't mess around here so I would advise listening to them and keeping your actions, and words, wise and polite.

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I had the stock single piece manifold on my car and it ran 500hp. I needed a external wastegate with the GT35R turbo, and that at the time was a problem for me. NOTE: I was not aware of the fact that the stock turbo manifold was CAST STEEL! I bought the south flordia performance manifold and it looks very much like the one in the pictures.

 

So first thing, mild steel will not work! I reworked my manifold THREE times and still got warping. I made the manifold three pieces, like the EURO manifold, and it still warped. The center section that picks up the 3 & 4 had to many pipes attached in to small of space, so it continued to warp, and the turbo flange warped as well. This happened THREE times to me.

I ran the part, and since it was high temp coated in SILVER, the max temp was about 1200 degrees. Well the first thing that happened was the silver coating started coming off the manifold, not good, but workable. The problem that made me trash the part was that in the process of coating the outside of the part, they decided to coat the turbo outlet area as well to cover up the bad welding. Well, it worked for a time, then I blew up the car and that really cinced it. But, what was happening is the coating on the inside of the manifold started chipping away,,,,,, RIGHT TO MY EXHAUST TURBINE WHEEL! NOT GOOD!

So I started in on the Euro manifold, and BTW it has a larger tub section then the SFP manifold did in the first place. I worked the manifold, welded it up, ported it out and was trying to get it cast in 316L or so. That did not work, as the quote was to the tune of 8000.00-13000.00 to do the molding. No go on that one for me, unless you know of a shop that will cast the part cheap.

Now, I am back to the stock manifold again. I think the tube of the part is just about the same size as the EURO manifold, which is bigger then the aftermarket part I spent, all total about 3K on purchase and rework.

I did all my port work on the stock manifold, welded the sides of each outlet(except the center ports) and was able to cut a 1 3/4" hole in the bottom of the manifold under the turbo inlet flange. I am running a TIAL 44mm unit now.

So as far as the manifold is concerned. I am thinking I am going to get better flow then the SFP part, and about the same flow as the EURO manifold. I know I was able to do 658hp with the SFP part, so I am thiking the stock ported manifold really is a better part then the SFP part, and not as good as the EURO manifold because it is a single piece part, and is subject to warping more easily then the thre piece EURO manifold. The EURO three piece part was designed spicifically to stop the warping.

So if you know a shop that cast parts at a good price then let me know. I will run the EURO part and have an excellent part for all to use.

Whatever the case is, the part has to be standardized and built from the stock part locations, or most downpipes that have been built will not work.

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I haven't talked to Derek about this part. I think TonyD did speak o him regarding this part and he gave Tony a reference to a company that could do the work. I called one compant and they wanted WAY TO MUCH to make the part.

I would really like the part to be made in SS but I am not going to pony up 8-15K to have the molds built. That is what I was quoted, so the header sits in the garage in the hopes that I can find a place that will do the job for a reasonable price. I am not a cast/mold guy, but what they wanted wqould pay my salary for a few months.

Regardless, that is to much money for me to spend. So if there is a company/person that can do the work without me paying for their kids private school, and for their mercedes, I will go for it.

I am QUITE sure this part will run at least 650Hp. I have run that much with the SFP header and the tubes are smaller then the EURO part. I think this would be one of the best options any turbo application could run for the cars. Anything more would require a custom setup exhaust, but how many people are in the 600-700hp ranges? I don't think to many are that high in hp.

So any help would be appreciated.

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Yes, there are botique casting repair places that will make the euro manifold in 321SS, but their setup cost was quoted to us at 6-8,000 US$ plus a minimum run. A single part would be much higher.

 

For what you get out of a stock manifold, the talk of the tubular stuff is being relegated into the realm of theoretical nonsensical overkill. I would posit the expansion joints in the Euro Manifold is all you need for extended longevity in a cast manifold.

 

BTW, as to the quote earlier about the 'tubular header being bigger and flowing better' ... WRONG (at least in the case of the Nissan Stock Euro Header...)

 

When JeffP measured my Euro Header against his cut open in the middle of another rework SFP POS 1 5/8" Tubular Header he noted the STOCK NISSAN PART WAS LARGER IN THE FRONT PORTION OF THE HEADER AND MOST OTHER PORTIONS THAT COULD BE MEASURED.

 

A little porting of the head/manifold entrance got that very close to tubular dimensions. If you want something BIGGER than stock, you will need to use something BIGGER than 1 5/8" heavy walled tubing.

 

BTW, JeffP made very caustic and sailor-like comments when this revelation was uncovered. My virgin ears bled, and I fled his Bat Cave-like garage crying he was so foul. You can tell he spent time on a ship when stuff like this happens.

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