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should i get stupid?


Silent

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im trying to get a L series engine right now for my 240 that is already built. pistons, rods, so on and so forth. i "believe" it is still a 2.8 liter. what i have been kicking around is turboing said motor. before you go off and say yes. the motor is 10.0:1 c/r. while this doesn't scare me in a sense of pushing 19 lbs down the perverbial throttle body on a modern engine. it does leave me a bit squeemish to do it to this engine.

 

if i were to do this. im not sure if it would be worth going efi on it, or building a surge tank for the su's and grinding a set of custom needles to follow the boost curve.

 

more or less throwing idea's out there for people to come back with something logical.

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Even though the L is a great engine, the head design leaves a little to be desired in SOME applications.

Even with modern engines this can be a bit trickey.

If you are the ultimate tuning guru, finest parts and a little water injection I would still have to say "good luck";)

 

High compresson turboing has been done. Low boost gives you alot of suds, but one bad pull. poof. I've seen forged pistions destroyed.

 

I'am not a master engine builder but I've been around enough to say be carefull if you decide to go down that road:) peace.

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like i said, just kicking the idea around right now. i just don't have a desire to run race gas all the time to keep it together. water injection doesn't bother me at all. i have it on my daily driver right now, it is pushing the limits of 91 octane as it is.

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as far as my understanding goes, high comp = good for N/A motors and low comp = good for turbo. i think the stock L28et is at somthing like 7 to 1? how would SU's do keeping up with the fuel demand of a turbo motor?

 

in my opinion running 10 to 1 with a turbo could be a good combo for a grenade.

running low comp and FI seems to be the safe and reliable way to go prob less of a PITA to than getting SU's to work with the turbo to

 

thats just my 2cents mate

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I wouldn't. If you want to turbo something, get a bottom end with dished pistons (or get dished pistons for this bottom end). You will have much more potential power with lower compression and more boost than with high compression and low boost, plus as already mentioned you won't be on the razor's edge every time you fire it up.

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if i were to do this. im not sure if it would be worth going efi on it, or building a surge tank for the su's and grinding a set of custom needles to follow the boost curve.

 

To use SU's wouldn't it have to be a draw-through setup? (versus a blow-through) Either that or you'd have to figure out a way to pressurize the SU's float chambers. I could be wrong though (it wouldn't be the first time :redface:)

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To use SU's wouldn't it have to be a draw-through setup? (versus a blow-through) Either that or you'd have to figure out a way to pressurize the SU's float chambers. I could be wrong though (it wouldn't be the first time :redface:)

 

if im thinking right. which im probably not. a 1:1 fpr would help in this area, along with the surge tank on the end of the carbs. think igloo for vorteched carbed v8's.

 

same principle. different execution

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That poses an interesting question to the turbo world. Take a look at this vid.

 

 

This is a 10:1 turbo ford motor with an HP turbo kit, built or machined by Budlong Motorsports pushing over 1000RWHP. Car has gone in the 7's at Las Vegas, NV after Anthony sold it.

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I ran draw through SUs on a turbo motor for years, and the performance was poor. I screwed with the SUs for all that time and never really got the performance and or drivability I was looking for. Part of it was you can't really run an IC with a draw through setup (safely). Secondly, you have almost no control over fuel and spark, the most important variables for any engine tune, especially a boosted one.

 

If you are just looking to screw around with SUs and a turbo just to learn something, fine. But if you want to build a turbo motor that is reliable, drivable, and makes good power, don't waste your time with carbs.

 

If that L28 is already built, and has 10:1 CR, why not just run it NA with SUs? You could get 180-200WHP with the proper tune. Could be a hoot to drive.

 

Pete

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Yeah, I just did a lot of catching up today ... but probably for not though... I'll have VERY limited internet access after next wed due to be in a $hithole sandbox ... either way .. good luck with the new Z bro it looks like you've got a great starting point. I hope I can find one that clean to start on when I get back. And good job with the Balt too! Mines been sitting since Nov and now the wife will be using it for a DD while I'm off "playing" for the next 6-7 months...

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  • 4 weeks later...

not worth it unless you have an advanced EFI system that will pull back timing or do some weird electrical whirrs and bleeps to get your piston from the top of the bore to the bottom....safely..... repeatedly...

 

 

...and in one piece.

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