Nelsonian Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I'm liking this and eager to find out pricing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma-z Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I am pretty interested in this radiator for my S30 but I do have one concern. Since this is an aluminium radiator won't it need to be isolated from the chassis? As best I can from the pics this radiator uses the stock mounting holes without any isolators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneStarS30Z Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Correct me someone if I'm wrong, but rubber bushings between the chassis the the radiators mounting points would solve the possible problem of vibration damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONZTER Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I have been running an aluminum radiator on my Z for years with no rubber isolators, and no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 http://forums.hybrid...ad.php?t=133682 Thanks for all the great imput so far! I wanted to create a more official thread just to discuss radiator design here. Gollum mentioned that I should concentrate on making the radiator fit the S30 first then the S130 as an afterthought. As I understand the only difference between the S30 and S130 radiator are the core height and mounting bracket holes. If that's the case then I can make the core height something in between that of a 240Z and 280ZX. Then I can have brackets that have holes that will line up to S30 and S130 radiator supports. John was asking for a double pass cross flow radiator with a built in engine oil cooler. The only problem I see with that is that the inlet/outlet will be on the same side. Plus an external EOC could be bigger, more efficient and less taxing on the cooling system. And the S30 has space for an EOC if you get creative. But this is my point of view. I'm open to arguments against my opinion. The design I have in my head is a triple pass downflow radiator. From the inlet the water will travel down, up then down again to the outlet. At Koyo we call it "N-FLOW" because the water flow through the radiator is an N-shape. The core thickness would be 53mm (2 1/16") with two rows of tubes 23.55mm wide. The inlet/outlet diameter will remain the same as stock. The radiator mounting brackets would be at the same location as OEM. Since there is no built in rubber isolation in the OEM copper/brass radiator design I want to create our own bracket that has built-in isolation from direct radiator to chassis contact. So what do you guys think of my idea? Any comments are greatly appreciated! Any chance there is still some effort being put into building an S130 rad? There were optional aftermarket rads for the S30 before Koyo made one but there STILL isn't anything available for the 280ZX. It would only require a slight mod in the bottom outlet to have it fit the ZX (its the lower cross member otherwise). Pleaseeeeeee..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Bringing this back from the dead. Just thought i'd mention that unlike the above specs, this radiator DOES NOT come with a drain plug. I'm having one Tig'd on. I'll post up a review once I get it installed and put a few miles through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 That's what the lower radiator hose is for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 The Arizona Z-car radiator does not have a drain plug either. As Tony stated, that's what the lower radiator hose is for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 There are OEM applications similar. A drain petcock is not a necessity, but rather a nicety! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 A drain petcock may not be a necessity but after almost 10yrs without one and now having one I'm never going back. Draining coolant by pulling off the lower radiator hose always made a huge mess and I usually ended up smashing the crap out of my knuckles on the alternator trying to yank it off. I think having a drain tig'd on is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I think some people were asking about pricing. I see they're available for around $330 including shipping from multiple vendors (eBay) which seems very fair. Given this option I'm very interested in the Koyorad and wonder who's got one. I've used a custom Wizard Cooling in my 240Z which I've been very pleased with. Here is Koyorad Part Number R022352 The Wizard Cooling radiator is here for comparison http://wizardcooling.com/1970-1973-datsun-240z It runs $499 plus shipping. I'm doing a turbo build and am considering the Koyrad for that. I ended up adding a two fan set-up to my 240Z with the Wizard radiator as I was taking it to the track and it seemed prudent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I am using Dave's radiator from Arizona Z Car its been in my car for 4+ years and has run flawlessly, my car never gets over 180F, I am also using twin 10" Flex-A-Lite Electric fans that are thermostatically controlled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 (edited) I'm using the Wizard Cooling rad as well. Have logged just over 15k miles on it with zero issues in my LS1 z. Scott Attig [owner of WC] suggested i use rubber grommets to isolate the rad, drilled the rad crossmember holes slightly larger, installed grommets and bolted in rad using stainless bolts with nyloc nuts so I didn't have to torque them too tightly. My z was the model for the radiator he produces. After he made all the measurements [i was able to provide him a 240, 280 & 280zx] the questions he needed answers to were; how many horsepower does this need to cool, what size to the inlet & outlets need to be. I paid extra for the mounting tabs he tig'd for my LS1 fans to mount and he also made me a tube with nipple on it [to attach the steam tube] that goes between the upper hose section and bead rolled the ends to it seals properly. I was going to purchase a different radiator [think big name and less expensive] until Scott took some time and detailed for me the differences in his vs. big box or ebay rads. Greatest advantage [other than he's only 90 min. away] is his rad has no epoxy, it's all tig welded. In the end, I'd go back and purchase from him again in a heartbeat. Great product, excellent customer service, no issues and...a drain petcock! No, I'm not affiliated with WC, just like what he delivers. Edited September 1, 2013 by 1 tuff z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 (edited) Ebay , Champion 3 row for around $150 . It has no problem of keeping a V8 cool ( 175F ) in 100F plus Texas heat . Hayden fan ( 2 speeds ) in fact fan shroud . Have been driving the car for 8 months . And it has a drain plug . Edited September 1, 2013 by Domzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Just had my 280Z 3-row radiator recored to a 4 row and it has worked beautifully with my LS1 for 34,000 miles now. Simple and relatively inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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