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the start of the B.customs Z has begun..2jz 1000hp


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Yesterday i was able to barrow a friend of mines supra aem ems. Plugged it into my car..did not change anything...and it revved to over 3500 rpms then started limiting...so at this point im almost positive its just tuning!!!!!!!!
Did everybody miss this??? If you put another guys AEM on your car and it did the same thing as it did before I would guess it was one of your sensors. Maybe I missed where somebody responded to this comment!?!? But based on this comment ALONE I would say you need to start checking your car, the harness, or the sensors. I have seen harnesses that have been wired incorrectly, even the positive and negative matter on the injectors, with some ECU's. Have you checked that?

 

i know when i got it to rev to 3500 it let out a HUGE blow off....it sounded RAD but i stilllllllll cant drive the thing yet..... but when i get it respectably boosting and driving i will make a tire shredding video!
This is 100% symptomatic of unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust manifold and combusting and building boost. Im not sure about you guys but I cant build boost at no load by 3500 rpms.

 

You still have a problem with something on YOUR motor, INJECTOR(s), CRANK POSITION SENSOR, CAM TIMING, IGNITION TIMING OR FIRING ORDER.

 

Anybody disagree with me? I didn't read every single word in every post since my last, so feel free to point it out if I missed something.

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Did everybody miss this???
I believe we addressed it, saying there's a good chance his coils are improperly wired. I don't believe he ever checked because he thought that was absurd... or maybe he checked afterall and gave pretty convincing evidence. I'm not inclined to go sniffing through it all again.
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Well WORKS has the car now and they have gone trough the maps extensively. The car now revs to 3500 rpms instead of 2000 rpms. So we have come to the conclusion there are at least two problems. --- the tune was making it limit at 2000rpms. Which is now fixed. By swappn ECU's with my friend it limited at 3500rpms as well.

 

but it now limits at 3500 so they are going to go into the sensors.

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I believe we addressed it, saying there's a good chance his coils are improperly wired. I don't believe he ever checked because he thought that was absurd... or maybe he checked afterall and gave pretty convincing evidence. I'm not inclined to go sniffing through it all again.
Yea, this was my reply below.

 

It sounds like you have the firing order wrong. 1,5,3,6,4,2 will idle fine and do EXACTLY what yours does in the video.

His response below

i dont think so...when its warm it idols extremely smooth with no hicups or anything.

 

the aem system is plug and play so the only things i had to splice in were a map sensor and a air temp sensor

^^^If this is the case I would recommend checking and rechecking these two sensors^^^ If this is truly the only thing you modified on your car. Otherwise you get to pay them hourly to randomly stumble upon this error that you could have told them about.

 

Not it wouldnt slowly get worse before the rev limit....it would reve just fine until it hits a "brick wall". Right now the car is at WORKS getting run through...i hope they can find something. where are you located?

 

Well WORKS has the car now and they have gone trough the maps extensively. The car now revs to 3500 rpms instead of 2000 rpms. So we have come to the conclusion there are at least two problems. --- the tune was making it limit at 2000rpms. Which is now fixed. By swappn ECU's with my friend it limited at 3500rpms as well.

 

but it now limits at 3500 so they are going to go into the sensors.

 

I never could tell from your description if it reved PERFECTLY to 2000 (or 3500) or if it broke up on its way there.

 

If it reved PERFECTLY I would look at the sensor wheel and its air-gap and the teeth and make sure they looked PERFECT. I have seen metal chips and bent dammaged or not straight rings, work PERFECTLY right up to a specific rpm then loose TDC and sound just like the "Brick wall" you are describing.

 

But still no one commented on the fact that if you can make boost by 3500rpms (enough to vent the blow off valve) then you are burning fuel in the exhaust manifold NOT in the cylinders, and this is an indication your firing order MUST be wrong, at least when it gets to 3500 rpms.

 

Good luck, take a friend with you when you go to pick it up as you will only hear about half of what they tell you. Chances are when you go to pick it up they will tell you so much stuff you will never remember all of what they say.

 

Hope it all works out and let us know, we like to learn too.

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it did rev perfectly until 2000 rpms then hit the "brick wall". But since WORKS changed the tuning on the ecu it now revs to 3500rpms and hits a "brick wall". Wouldnt this fact alone cancel out a mechanical problem like the teeth not meshing up with the sensor correctly?

 

 

Also they stated when driving the car under load it seems to limit around 2500 rpms now.

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it did rev perfectly until 2000 rpms then hit the "brick wall". But since WORKS changed the tuning on the ecu it now revs to 3500rpms and hits a "brick wall". Wouldnt this fact alone cancel out a mechanical problem like the teeth not meshing up with the sensor correctly?

 

 

Also they stated when driving the car under load it seems to limit around 2500 rpms now.

 

Sounds like a MAF problem, injector flow, fuel pump, etc. What is the A/F ratio when it's doing this?

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Wow, that's pretty rich for vacuum. As in, close to washing the cylinders rich.

 

It could easily be a compound problem, too. One issue could have caused a second problem, etc.

 

i do have a feeling its going to be multiple little problems that need to be attacked one by one

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is the car still having the same problem? Do you have a copy of the calibration you can send me? Go to Sensors>Cam/Crank Sensors>Advanced Cam/Crank>Advanced Pickups and do a log of the problem occuring, see if the parameter Timing Errors increases rapidly. Its normal to see a few timing errors during startup, but during idle and any kind of driving there shouldnt be any timing errors. If your getting timing errors email me the calibration and I will take a look at it. xeviltomx at hot mail dot com

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LOL you have not been used!!!!!!!!!!! the car is still at Works....i talked to them Yesterday and they said they found "anomalies" in the wiring. I have no idea what that means but they said they tested the sensors and found them to be working properly. BUT i just talked to a good friend today (who has a 800hp+ lsc300) And he told me to ask them if they used a Lab scop on the crank sensor to see if the single was changing at all at the rev limit. Apparently you can test a crank sensor's restisntance and it still be in spec but still be a bad sensor. So i have to call them back tomarrow and check and see what kind of test they did to my sensors.

 

 

Boys, we've been used. :shock:

 

:mrgreen::burnout:

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WORKS sounded like they made some progress on the car today. There were many small issues it seems. Some Of the pin outs on the ECu block had to be moved around. MANY grounds Were not flowing voltage well. The Stock tune on the ecu was not good enough for my motor. PLus im sure MANY other small things they didnt even go into. But Apparently the car Revs completey to redline now 6-7000 rpms. It still has some hiccups along the rpm band tho....should i let them continue with a tune?

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