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Fixing Rust


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Im looking at getting a 280z from a guy in FL and I was wanting to know if anyone could give me a rough estimate on how much money I would be speding to fix all the rust issue with this car.

 

--The title of the car is clear, it’s not the original color – currently it’s a flat black, the original color I believe was a dark forest green(?). As far as rust, it’s quite extensive on the passenger side. The passenger frame rail as well as the floor board needs to be replaced, there are a few rust spots as well as rust holes on the hatch, roof and hood. The passenger frame rail, is bent slightly and the passenger fender is bent as well. The doors are in ok condition, they do not lock – but they do close, with a slight “slam.†The dash has a cover, but the original is in terrible condition. Steering wheel would need to be replaced (terrible condition). Seats are in excellent condition(no tears) for it’s age, there isn’t a lot of rust in the interior of the car – except the floorboards. All panels are intact, the headliner is loose.

 

To my knowledge everything works, the car ran fine a year ago. The owner claims, that he’s confident that this car would be able to travel across country. He is a reliable mechanic and would make very sure that this car would reach its destination. Along with this car, come replacement parts; interior (seats…) and exterior (doors, hood…), and an extra motor from a 240z.--

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A very rough estimate of what the car will likely need:

 

Floor pans $1,600

Frame rails $600

Rocker panels $1,200

Hatch holes $500

Roof holes $500

Hood holes $500

Battery tray $500

 

 

You're looking at roughly $5,400 to end up with a clean shell. That's what a very good condition 280Z sells for.

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You're looking at roughly $5,400 to end up with a clean shell. That's what a very good condition 280Z sells for.

 

Very good point. Well looks like I may have to pass this up but on a good note someone else contacted me about a 78 280z 2+2 that has an near perfect body.

 

Thanks for the estimates, really helpful.

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Very good point. Well looks like I may have to pass this up but on a good note someone else contacted me about a 78 280z 2+2 that has an near perfect body.

 

Thanks for the estimates, really helpful.

 

You really should pass that one up and look for a better shell, most have some rust, but there's a lot of southern cars out there that aren't even close to as bad. There's a saying about polishing a turd...

 

look around a bit, I'm sure there's a few more around that are in a lot better shape. For instance I got my 78' 280Z for $400 bucks, w/ barely some paint bubbles. sure that's rust, but it's not even close to through the metal. Of course I'm in NM and rust is a lot less common...

 

Also, think twice about a 2+2, I've found them to be less nimble and frankly less attractive than the coupes...

 

Phar

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You really should pass that one up and look for a better shell, most have some rust, but there's a lot of southern cars out there that aren't even close to as bad. There's a saying about polishing a turd...

 

look around a bit, I'm sure there's a few more around that are in a lot better shape. For instance I got my 78' 280Z for $400 bucks, w/ barely some paint bubbles. sure that's rust, but it's not even close to through the metal. Of course I'm in NM and rust is a lot less common...

 

Also, think twice about a 2+2, I've found them to be less nimble and frankly less attractive than the coupes...

 

Phar

 

I did think twice. The more I looked at the 2+2 I kept thinking I really want a coupe, so as luck would have it, I found a guy local selling a turbo 280zx coupe t-tops and all!! Im picking it up fri. Thanks for all the advice guys.

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So, I'm going to hijack this thread since his question was answered: my friend and I looked at a fairly decent '73 today, asking price $2k said he'd take $1k... had some rot on the frame toward the rear section of the front wheelwells....is that necessarily safe to fix? I just think it would trash the structural integrity....

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people replace the entire frame rails quite often i believe. so yes, it is safe to fix. the frame rails don't support the entire body, they only strengthen it. the entire body is the frame, so you wouldn't have to worry abut the structural integrity being compromised by replacing the rails.

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If there are any rust holes around the edge of the roof they are likely hiding much more substantial rot in the underlying rails. My 1971 240z had small 1/4" holes at each corner of the windscreen and a couple along each side above the rain channel. The attached pics show what lies beneath...

240z roof rust 010 small_thumb.jpg

240z roof rust 011 small_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Hey guys, I was just searching the board looking for answer to my question and stumbled upon this thread. Would you guys agree that it is easier in the long run to find a nicer Z with minimal rust for 3 or 4 grand as opposed to a complete rusted out junker for $1000? I am about to start looking for a Z and was just curious as to your opinions.

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Hey guys, I was just searching the board looking for answer to my question and stumbled upon this thread. Would you guys agree that it is easier in the long run to find a nicer Z with minimal rust for 3 or 4 grand as opposed to a complete rusted out junker for $1000? I am about to start looking for a Z and was just curious as to your opinions.

 

I'd pass on it. It's always cheaper to just find a clean shell to start with, than to buy a rusty shell and fix it.

 

Yes, buying a clean shell for 3-4x the price will be easier AND cheaper in the long run than buying a rust bucket and fixing it.

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Same decision just began for me. I ended up taking the learning experience route but in my situation cheaper. Bought the car in worse condition than what sounds this car was in for $300.

 

CAR-- $300

Purchased MSA Floorpan Kit (Not worth it, make your own) for $315

Misc Metal--- $75

Borrowed friends welder--$100

Electric saw (Jigsaw was taking to long to cut out floorpans)-- $75

 

Total= $865 (If you take out the saw and made floorpans your self I could have been down around $600-$700)

 

Granted the owner didn't know if the engine ran which I got it to (Ends up having a 280z 5 speed and I can get $200- $400 when I sell that setup right there), but its pretty rough and coming out anyways.

 

All in all I got pretty lucky right there, but I waited a year to find a car for me out here in WA and if you wait long enough the deals pop up. Craigslist FTW.

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I cant weld or anything like that so, it would obviously cost more to have it done by someone else, but it would be done right.

there is a nice Z for sale here in Jersey but he wants 5500 for a car that doesnt even have stock transmission and rear end, so I dont think I want to pay that much for it

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If you are not going to weld yourself then yes buying a clean shell is much more cost effective. As for that car why don't you ask him what transmission and rear end is in there because many members end up upgrading anyways. Also, it never hurts to send an offer:-D

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