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Project 240Z Turbo ITB Install


S30TRBO

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Roger that, I might even be boosted by then who the hell knows. I hope to have it running for you to hear before you roll out.

 

It's only a 20 hour drive (like driving to Florida and then some) when you get short lets start planning it I have over 120 hours of leave now. HA! icon_eek.gif

 

 

Figure around my 41st Birthday...we'll have one helluva party.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I converted that nasty Greddy clear hose and changed it out to braided. I was having problems finding a AN fitting for the valve cover breather and I didn't want to weld on it or have it drilled for a larger fitting so this is what I came up with.

 

Before: Stock aluminum breather pipe.

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After: Courtesy of Ship Point Machine shop on a Saturday, I had my Aeroquip fittings purchased by Henry's Engineering welded. The Aeroquip AN aluminum adapter was welded to the stock valve cover breather pipe.

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The same goes for the crank case breather pipe. I swapped out my 240Z breather and had a Aeroquip AN steel adapter welded to the stock L28ET crank case breather pipe.

 

Before:

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After:

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Also converted the Greddy catch can to AN fittings instead of slip on:

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All work welded with a Miller Syncrowave 351 TIG Welder, as I like to call it "The Big Daddy"

 

 

 

Finished:

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Tomorrow I will be working on the Laminova Oil to Water Heat Exchanger... :)

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Looks good.

 

Two quick comments.

 

1) The Greddy unit is not really efficient as a catch can. It is not internally baffled and is just a big can.

 

2) You have the crank case breather connected to one side of the can and the valve cover vent to the other? If so, that is a big no no. You need a vacuum source on the catch can as well as a PCV valve on the crank breather. You are going to pressurize the valve cover with the crank case pressure.

Edited by ktm
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Looks good.

 

Two quick comments.

 

1) The Greddy unit is not really efficient as a catch can. It is not internally baffled and is just a big can.

 

2) You have the crank case breather connected to one side of the can and the valve cover vent to the other? If so, that is a big no no. You need a vacuum source on the catch can as well as a PCV valve on the crank breather. You are going to pressurize the valve cover with the crank case pressure.

 

Bo,

 

Thanks for the comments. As for the Greddy unit, this sucker is 10 years old and owes me nothing. I have a slip on pipe thread fitting that I need to drill and tap the side of the unit to hang a breather off I should be good after that. I know once I hang the turbo in another year I will need to change the config all together, maybe even incorporate an actual PCV valve.

 

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The tape is just holding it, I wish it was that easy.

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Mocking up the Laminova oil to water heat exchanger. This thing really doesn't weigh that much at all. I am either going to mount it to the inner fender well or even try to mount it inline along side the block.

 

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I emailed them to ask about a bracket since it came with none. Also I asked if this thing can be welded on since there is no place to bolt a bracket to it. If they have no brackets or method securing it and I can weld on it, back to Ship Point and I'll have them make me a couple of aluminum brackets and weld to it.

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Laminova said it has no bracket for it, I can weld it just remove the guts or I can mount a bracket to the end where the screws are. I think I will be ok if I just hang it on the side and use the bolt hole on the block to built a bracket to help support it, even though it may not need it.

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I brought the catch can to my local machine shop, it sat all this past week. He didn't know when he can get to it "drill and tab one hole it needs a drill press and I don't have one" so I picked it up yesterday heard about this Amish Machine Shop, brought it by he'll have it ready on Monday for $10 bucks.. I think I will start to go there hahaha.

 

Allergies are kicking my butt going to try to get in the garage and at least finish the heat exchanger install this weekend. :blink:

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  • 4 weeks later...

12 hours in the garage today, here we go:

 

 

Polished and re-installed the modified Greddy catch can with breather added:

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Cleaned up the wiring again and installed the relay blocks:

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Installed the heat exchanger:

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also cleaned the garage and the work bench...

 

Next weekend: add 1 gas can of 93 octane to the tank, install radiator, check for leaks, prime engine, start powering up everything slowly cross fingers... :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I polished the radiator, installed it, added coolant and this happened...

 

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After I added 1 gallon of coolant I went outside to the spicket to fill the same jug with water. I guess over the winter a squirrel packed an acorn inside the spicket. I didn't hear it hit the funnel until it was too late. So I had to drain the coolant, shine a light down inside the radiator and there it was. So I grabbed the shop vac, some fuel line, tape, fired it up and she stuck to the hose. Re-filled the radiator because I don't need no stinking acorns, glad I bought 2 gallons.. Moral of the story run the spicket at full blast and run your finger inside for any FOD.

 

I also started to test the electronics and I came across a problem with no light on the middle boost gauge. After diagnosing it with the Power Probe III I just bought :2thumbs: it seemed that the bulb was DOA. I attempted to take the gauge apart and gave it a little love tap, hooked it back up and viola..

 

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Tomorrow I need to test the fuel pump and the rest. I should be ready to open the valve cover, take the plugs out, rock the crank pulley with a breaker bar and turn the motor. It has been almost 2 years. Wish me luck :)

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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Just wondering, where did you install the TPS and Intake air temp sensor?

 

TPS is mounted to the ITB's on the firewall side. I'm not running the air temp yet but I will once I go turbo and decided if I am keeping the ITB's or building a plenum.

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New Year UPDATE:

 

Well between traveling with work and me going back to school progress has been slow. I had a problem with the new crank pulley in the way the magnets were facing since the machine shop I had do it screwed it up. So before Thanksgiving I ordered new magnets from SDS pulled it apart installed only one magnet (the sync magnet) and attempted to put the crank pulley back on and it wouldn't go back on. So in my infinite wisdom and asking a few people, I heated the inside of the pulley and it slid right on. I had to turn it a hair and by then it was stuck. So out comes the puller and I started to pull it off to reposition it and it started coming apart in two pieces.

 

So now I am talking to Rebello to purchase their street damper. Using the modified version of the 60-2 trigger wheel the plan is to have SDS drop ship a set of magnets to them. I should have dealt with them to begin with and not this crap Professional Products Pulley that doesn't fit and now I don’t endorse! The funny part is the Euro pulley I have that was cracked when I bought the SDS kit still fits like glove.

 

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Here is the damage:

 

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Side by side with the cracked Euro pulley:

 

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FML!!!

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The irony of this getting bumped up next to someone's first thread on the site asking if anybody else has ever used ITB's on a turbo is priceless.

 

+1 :iagree:

 

I seen that post earlier Tony and figured it would be in the shed by now, irony can be damn funny haha!!

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