SidWell Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Can the oil pan gasket be replaced with the engine still bolted to the motor mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayton 260Z Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Can the oil pan gasket be replaced with the engine still bolted to the motor mounts? No, you must remove the bolts and jack the motor slightly, this will allow the front of the pan to clear the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidWell Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 No, you must remove the bolts and jack the motor slightly, this will allow the front of the pan to clear the crank. I thought as much, but, being a very lazy person, I thought I would ask first. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 That is incorrect. I have removed my oil pan a hand-full of times without unbolting the engine, or anything else for that matter. Just the pan and pickup tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedgato Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 X64v is correct. The pan can be removed without having to raise the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 I wondered the same thing, since my pan is filthy and was hoping to clean it up, put on a new gasket one of these days... Looks like there are some suspension parts that would need to be removed to back the pan out too- am I incorrect - can you just jack up, drain oil, remove bolts, and slide that sucker out? I have a 280ZX NA. While Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 ....While I'm on the topic, anyone recommend a good degreaser product for cleaning up the engine, oil pan, transmission, diff - everything that has "gunk" accumulated over the years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 sure. it's called "gunk engine degreaser" it's made by solder seal company, and part of their "gunk" line. you could also use SimpleGreen Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montezuma Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Replaced a oil pan gasket a few months ago, it was easy. Put in an oil change lift at the Marine Corps Recruit Depot Auto Skills shop, drained all the oil, removed all the pan bolts, dropped the pan, then pulled it back towards the tranny. After it was off the car I cleaned up in the parts cleaner dried it off with a towel placed on the new gasket using a little gasket sealer to keep it from moving. We realize that many don't like to use sealer near the oil but used it rather than having to take a chance that the gasket would move during reinstalling the pan. Got the pan up and in place, replaced all the bolts and then torqured it down using 1/4 drive so not to rip the pan. We looked in all our service manuals and could not find the proper torque settings for the pan. In the months since installing the gasket the car has not leaked one bit. It leaked bad before we replaced the gasket. Bottomline nothing had to be removed not even the bottom pan. Without a lift it would have sucked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 You can R&R the pan with the engine still bolted to the mounts as long as you don't have an L24E in your 240Z like mine did. Then you just curse until you find an L28. The correct torque spec for the pan is 7ft lbs if I remember correctly. I let mine hang out a few days and re-torqued it as necessary while the gasket slowly compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 You need to lift the motor slightly for clearance on a 280zx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 I have heard tell of a few reliable sources (from my subaru forum, http://www.usmb.net) that like to coat a cork oilpan gasket with a thin layer of oil safe RTV sealant, let it cure for 24 hours or so until its only minimally tacky if at all, and then use the gasket like that 7 ft-lbs sounds about right, make sure you spin around from point to point as if you were tightening lugnuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 I have heard tell of a few reliable sources (from my subaru forum, www.usmb.net) that like to coat a cork oilpan gasket with a thin layer of oil safe RTV sealant, let it cure for 24 hours or so until its only minimally tacky if at all, and then use the gasket like that 7 ft-lbs sounds about right, make sure you spin around from point to point as if you were tightening lugnuts. I do that esp. on auto trannies I've done with a slight veriation. I rtv both sides of gasket, fingure tighten all bolts (loosly) and let cure for about 6 hours or so then tourque down. Any gasket I've done this way has never leaked. (knock on wood) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 That's the kicker. If your going to use RTV then let it cure first. Otherwise you'll squish it all out to float around inside your valuable mechanical bits. I installed mine dry and made sure to torque it correctly and haven't had a single leak yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 That's the kicker. If your going to use RTV then let it cure first. Otherwise you'll squish it all out to float around inside your valuable mechanical bits. I installed mine dry and made sure to torque it correctly and haven't had a single leak yet. exactly. The cork absorbs oil and eventually gets cooked over time... but with a coating of RTV, the cork is made virtually indestructible and the RTV is given a place to hold on to. It's not unlike fliberglass cloth + resin == fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm I was shown that stuff recently. Far better than any gasket. I've been having problems with my oil pan leaking all over the place ever since I put in my l28et. I ditched the gasket all together, ran a big thick bead of that stuff on the pan, let it cure up for about 20 minutes, then bolted it up (about 10 ft. lbs. guessing by the calibrated wrist). Drove off soon after with no leaks since. A few of my friends have used this method as well (speedgato showed me the stuff in the first place) and have had no leaks either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 As long as we're recommending sealers - I used aviation form a gasket... coated both sides of my felpro gasket, let it tack, and installed. Torque'd to 7 ft lbs... 84 in lbs. "no leaks" http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Aviation_Form-A-Gasket_No_3_Sealant_a.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 I've used aviation form-a-gasket before, but that Right Stuff stuff.. Does that come out of the can like easy cheez? I really like the look of that, it may solve my leaky valve covers on my subaru better than anything else tried yet.... hmmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 I've used aviation form-a-gasket before, but that Right Stuff stuff.. Does that come out of the can like easy cheez? I really like the look of that, it may solve my leaky valve covers on my subaru better than anything else tried yet.... hmmmm.... I'm not sure how it comes out of the can, I used it from a caulk gun. It has the consistency of the cheese packets in an MRE, if anyone knows what I'm talking about. It comes out like caulk or tooth paste but much thicker. When it starts to dry it gets very rubbery, it actually feels like a real gasket. One of the techs at the repair shop I work at has used it on hundreds of cars, and he says not one has ever come back with a leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I've used aviation form-a-gasket before, but that Right Stuff stuff.. Does that come out of the can like easy cheez? I really like the look of that, it may solve my leaky valve covers on my subaru better than anything else tried yet.... hmmmm.... damn straight it will. it's what i use for oil pans and valve covers. depends on what the mating surfaces are like (design), but it usually works. infact, I had smeared some over pin hole on the base of an oil pan temporarily and it held for the rest of the life of the car (5 years). I actually forgot to fix it because my fathers driveway was clean since that moment on I'm just not sure what the grey/black difference is. both are impervious to gas and oil and somewhat high temps. it really is the RIGHT STUFF to use for everything were a gasket should be. even more so if you have access to the mating surfaces from the inside (throttle bodies), you can just lightly sand the inside so that there are no pieces that squeeze out to the inside diameter of the bore when you've fastened them =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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