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HybridZ

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so, i had an issue with a burnt connector. tested the white with red tracer wire that was not so nicely smoking from under the radio.

 

 

pull the fuse box out, check it for burned connections. newp, looks brand new. cut off some of the electrical tape and trace back a bit. the wire is perfect in condition. no burned spots or anything, however the once white connector is now insulating the spade connectors quite nicely.

 

pulled this connection apart, got the ole multimeter out and tested the wires.

 

this is where it gets stupid.

 

one side at idle 12.20

other side. 25+ volts.

 

wtf?!?!

 

no one it tried to burn to the ground.

 

revved the car up, volts spiked upwards of 52 volts, just one this one wire.

 

really odd

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one side at idle 12.20

other side. 25+ volts.

 

wtf?!?!

 

Check your primary cables around/below the battery and fusible links. These wires will rub with vibration and eventually wear through the shielding and touch each other or the frame rail. You could be getting some crossover between them which could do funky things. The battery 12v is touching to the ground wire and then the alternator is trying to pull it up 12v from there resulting in 12v black wire and 24v red wire maybe. ??? Check 'em out, for sure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

BJhines hit this on another thread.

 

Body ground to engine ground problem.

 

Your car uses ground to determine zero voltage.

 

If you have a lifted ground (usually between body and negative terminal) your voltage regulator does not know the actual voltage.

 

Connect up a pair of jumper cables between the engine and a bolt on top of a strut tower and measure voltage again.

 

If voltage returns to normal, try either fixing the lifted ground or guarantee body ground by running a ground strap between the engine and the body.

 

If your car cranks slowly......expect the fix above not fix your problem alone since that fix assumes the big black wire going to the block is fine.

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