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240Z With EFI and ITB's


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So I figured I would start one of these since I have recently started working on my 240z again. Plus I have been lurking on here for a loooong while so I figured I better make my first real post.

 

This is the best pic I have of my 240Z so far:

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This pic is probably close to 6 - 7 years old and was taken after my dad and I had just finished a major restoration on it.

 

Had a 280z Bottom end with a 240z E31 head and a mild cam with stock SU carbs. The car was completely stripped and painted a metallic white. Took 7 years to get it painted. Don't ask, it was a huge ordeal to get the guy to finish it up! When we finally got it back, I redid the whole interior and put down dynamat and NOS carpeting. The only thing really updated in the interior was that I put in an Aiwa HU and Infinity speakers in custom boxes behind the seats (there were already 2 Pioneer speakers in the trunk area). Also put in an Autopower roll bar wrapped in leather.

 

Fast forward to today and the car has been sitting for about 4 - 5 years due to a low compression engine (don't know the cause yet).

 

A it sits right now:

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So now my dad and I have gotten another motor, this time a 3.1L stroker and are finally getting around to the car being running again. Along with the engine, we picked up an EFI ITB setup with a Haltech F3 computer.

 

Onto the pics!!!

 

The motor itself:

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I decided to test fit the throttle bodies and the header just to make sure everything fit ok:

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The header is wrapped in DEI heat wrap and then sprayed with their heat coating.

 

More pics:

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Got some stuff in a couple weeks ago.

 

The infamous box shot with my feet:

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It's JDM newspaper!!! Mad Tite Yo!!!

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Got some Kameari stuff from Brian at www.zccjdm.com.

 

Kameari Super Single Clutch:

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Kameari electronic distributor and ignition system:

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Right now just waiting on the weather to clear to pull the old engine and get the engine bay cleaned up a bit before putting in the stroker.

 

I will keep you guys updated.

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Well today got the old engine pulled. Only took about an hour to do it which was a bit surprising since this was my first ever engine pull in my life.

 

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The engine bay looks so empty without anything in it. We used a ratcheting tie down strap to support the transmission.

 

 

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Here's a bad pic of the old engine. Gonna do a tear down of it and try and figure out exactly what happened to it.

 

Right now just waiting on some new flywheel bolts, along with the other bolts we ordered, so that we can drop the new engine in. Can't wait to do that and start bolting up all the accessories, etc.

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Tore down the old engine today, well at least took off the head to see the top of the pistons and the valves. Didn't find too much wrong there except for some pitting on the 4th cylinder near the valves and A LOT of carbon buildup. The majority of the carbon buildup showing on the sparkplugs was on the odd cylinders: 1, 3, 5. Didn't find out about the oil on cylinder 2 until I took off the head.

 

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Here you can see the pitting on the 4th cylinder.

 

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Close up of the pitting on the 4th cylinder.

 

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Carbon buildup on the 5th cylinder.

 

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Carbon buildup and oil soaked on the 2nd cylinder.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Finally have a few updates. I know, I know it's been a few months. Been busy with work, school, and going to Vegas for a cousins wedding.

 

 

Well before I left for Vegas I got some ARP goodies for the motor:

 

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Studs for the exhaust and intake, Flywheel bolts, and Transmission housing bolts.

 

Also replaced the clutch fork, pivot ball, and clutch bearing with new OEM

 

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(Yes I cleaned it up after this pic was taken)

 

Installed the studs onto the head

 

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Got back from Vegas and cleaned up the wiring a bit and installed the Kameari ignition control box.

 

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Put it right next to the radiator for now but I might move it.

 

Jacobs coil and all associated wiring

 

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The Jacobs control module

 

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And finally the crowning jewel of this post.......

 

Got the motor put in yesterday!!!!

 

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Now just have to start putting the bits and pieces on it.

 

It's finally coming together!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Getting most of the pieces put on the motor. Now I'm looking at fuel options. So far I've gathered that the stock 3/8" feed line will probably be ok and I was thinking about switching out the stock 5/16" return line for a 3/8" return line.

 

Also switching to a Walboro GSL-392 pump and was planning on using Earl's -6AN braided lines everywhere else (from the hard lines to the rail, rail back to hard lines, pump to hard lines, etc.) and using the Aeromotive A1000-6 regulator with guage.

 

I was planning on mounting the FPR on the end of the fuel rail and then coming back from there.

 

so basically: ~~= SS Braided, --= SS Hard

 

Tank~~~~Filter~~~~Pump~~---hardfeed---~~Filter~~~~Rail, FPR~~~~---hardreturn---

 

If anyone has any suggestions/criticism/whatever let me know as this is just what I've gathered so far and I am open to comments/help.

 

 

Now onto the progress pics:

 

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Those that plugged the left side of the 3-way water pipe, what did you use to plug it? I have an NPT square plug in it right now but I don't think it will hold.

 

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Here you can see what I did with the throttle linkage and rod.

 

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I got a longer stainless steel rod to push it all the way to the firewall and then custom made the aluminum piece on the firewall so that the shaft wouldn't flex.

 

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Nice side view of the ITBs, the header, and the Kameari distributor

 

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Close up of the header. Wrapped in DEI heat wrap and sprayed with their silicone coating. I am thinking about switching to the Arizona Z Car tuned header because it has a bolt on connector on the exhaust side and is 2.5" whereas this pacesetter (crap!!) header is only slip-on and 2.25".

Also still haven't decided what I am going to do with the carb choke cables.

 

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Shot of the whole front. Can see all my piles of tools and parts haha.

 

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And just for kicks here is a shot of the underside. You can see the old exhaust sitting on the ground. This will hopefully be getting replaced with a SS 2.5" exhaust. Still haven't decided on a muffler.

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  • 2 months later...

Definitely been awhile again since I've updated this. Been up to a lot since my last update:

 

Ran fuel lines

Installed Walboro pump

New throttle linkage

Metallic brake pads front and rear

New rear wheel cylinders

New fluid

 

All I'm waiting for now is some nice, warm weather so I can start her up and tune the Haltech.

 

Onto the pics!

 

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Pump and pre-filter installed near the tank.

 

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Fuel lines ran to the rail. Installed a Fuel Pressure gauge between the second filter and the rail. Found a metal filter that had the same bends in it as the old plastic FRAM I had on the right. This pic is before I replaced the linkage. Also you can see I installed a breather filter for the valve cover and the PCV pipe on the side of the block.

 

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Here you can better see the fuel gauge and the fuel filter. After this pic I installed rubber insulated clamps to hold the fuel hoses to the front of the block.

 

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New throttle linkage. These are aluminum as opposed to the original stamped metal. Reason i replaced them though is because I over tightened one of the linkages and it snapped. Better now than when I'm driving.

 

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The old wheel cylinders. The one in the bottom pic had leaked so it needed replacing and I rebuilt it so I would have spares. The other one was fine so I just cleaned it up but I still replaced it.

 

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The old brake shoes. Notice the ones in the bottom pic are darker? That's because they are soaked in brake fluid. Sucks because there was still a good amount of pad left.

 

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New wheel cylinders from Courtesy Parts. Nissan does still have a supplier for these for now....

 

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Wheel cylinder rebuild kits from Black Dragon. Only ended up using one like I said.

 

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Metallic brake shoes for the rear from Motorsport Auto.

 

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Both sides all cleaned up and ready for new hardware. Sorry I don't have any pics of everything installed.

 

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PBR Ceramic front pads from Motorsport Auto. I actually had to send these back because PBR put the wrong pads in the box. Got the correct ones back from Motorsport yesterday and finished putting the fronts back together.

 

Like I said, just waiting for a few nice days so I can start it up and tune the Haltech. I'll update when I can finally do that.

 

On a side note, Motorsport has great customer service. I called them up and let them know about the wrong pads. Even though the part number on the box was correct, they didn't really question me except why the pads didn't fit. They just told me to ship them back. Got the correct pads yesterday and they refunded my shipping to them. Overall great customer service.

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Well tried to start it today. At first I had no spark so went back to my original problem of the wiring with the Jacobs computer so I unhooked that and had great spark.

Then didn't have the tune on the Haltech right so I was getting spark but no fuel.Figured that out in about 10mins so tried again and blew the coil. So now instead of no fuel, I'm getting fuel and no spark again :banghead:.

 

Just ordered a Crane Cams ps60 coil so now gotta wait for that to come in to replace the Jacobs coil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got it started today!!! Started right up on the first try!

 

Man it sounds mean with no exhaust and it is LOUD. Just let it idle at 2000rpm for about 20mins, changed the oil, and then I just took it on a short sprint around the neighborhood. Think I pissed off some neighbors but oh well haha. Guy that lives up the street builds race cars so it's nothing new.

 

The heavy duty Kameari clutch is effortless. Smooth as butter and so easy you wouldn't even know that it is upgraded.

Now I just have to tune the Haltech better especially the cold start enrichment map. I think the cold start map is flooding the engine before it starts so it has a hard time starting from cold.

I'll get a video of it up here on the next nice day since it's supposed to rain the next 2 days.

 

I have a list of things left to do before it is pretty much done but for right now it is road worthy.

 

  • Install new OEM door panels
  • New OEM window cranks and arm rests
  • Install new window glass
  • Install retractable seat belts (still has the non-retractable belts in it)
  • Install chromed front bumper
  • Need to source a new windshield (have a crack at the top that spans the entire windshield)

That's all I can think of at the moment but I don't think my to do list is any longer than that.

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