240hoke Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I never put the motor in the car with the A/C but im going to say that i HIGHLY doubt its possible. I think the pulley would be pretty much sitting where the steering rack spline is. I also am goign to have to say that if you cant fab and weld this probably isn't the swap for you... might want to go LS1 or similar or even consider the L28. Any more updates Myron...vid's and whatnot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 Nothing interesting happening over here. I just swapped out my 4.11 rear end for a 3.54. Now i'm just trying to concentrate on how to get the car to stick and brake better. It's much better with the 3.54 though. It's not as much fun but it is more tame and I can actually use my 1st gear now. Still having traction problems so a wider stickier tire and suspension changes are in store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Whats the final overdrive ratio on the transmission in top gear??? I am beginning to wonder about top speed with a VQ, a six speed gearbox and 3.54 rears.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatcarguy350 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 The 6th gear ratio is .794. My guess of top speed would be about 155-165, because of aero, and you'd still want to do something to take care of that front end lift you find in the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 that was around my guess, but I was hoping for something a little lower out of sixth. still..... OOooompy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 What suspension changes did you have in mind Myron? Going softer at the rear? Or both? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 Ive decreased the amount of caster, and softened my rear sway bar even thinking about removing it. I'm also looking at a wider tire for the rear and running less camber as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Hawk Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 When you stiffen the front end as much as your triangulated tower brace probably does, you often have to remove the rear bar, or soften it significantly. One of our race Z's out here has a triangulated brace plus downbraces to the front rails. He runs a little 5/8" rear bar with heavy springs on the end links where the spacer sleeves normally go. That effectively reduces the bar rate even more, and it is adjustable by how tight you screw down the end link nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Update: So far the new engine / drivetrain has been running flawlessly even after the resent track event I attended at WSIR. After being out on a high speed track mostly dominated by high HP cars I'm glad to report back that the car holds it's own even in the long straights. The balance is very noticable. When the car is pushed to it's gripping limits it tends to slide evenly and smooth rather than the car rotating or pushing. Even on some off camber downhill sections the car held firm without trailbraking. I'm very pleased with the results. Not once did I have to pop the hood, it helped the overall balance of the car, I couldn't have asked for more power (for now), and I drove the car to and from the event without a problem. Hopefully next time i'll be able to get someone to get some good pics and vids. Just a side note: I got rid of my 4.11 welded diff and slapped my open 3.54 rear end back in. The lack of traction sucks at low speeds. So far I've softened the rear by removing my sway bar and decreasing my rear rebound dampening. I'm really leaning towards a 1-way diff so tuning my suspension/chassis with an open might pay off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 have you thought about a wider tire on yours? your running the 255's on the RB's right? you could go to a 275 with room to spare. Thats what im running and i have no rubbing issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Oh yeah forgot to mention i'm running 275/40/17's in the rear. brand new falken rt-615. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Great to here that it performed well on the track. Not a big surprise that it ran flawlessly (Nissan engineering). 3.54s in an NA is really going to hurt your lap times. I'd be looking for a 3.9 or 4.11. The cheap OBX LSDs actually work reasonably well for the money. I've got one in my turbo car. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 OK i just remembered that you had 255/40-17's falkens when you first got the rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
touge240Z Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 3.54s in an NA is really going to hurt your lap times. I'd be looking for a 3.9 or 4.11. I think He was recently running a 4.11 and said he was having major traction problems as I could imagine. A 350z has a 3.54, and if it can move as quick as it does bone stock, then I can only imagine what it would be like in an S30 that's about 1000lbs lighter with a 3.9 or 4.11? Imo 3.9, or 4.11 isn't needed unless he plans on towing a boat. The gearing from the transmission is already pretty aggressive and running a 3.54 or lower would most likely utilize the engines full potential, as I would assume emwhyrohen ran through those gears too quickly with the 4.11....but what Im trying to say is, isn't rotational output important? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Oh yeah forgot to mention i'm running 275/40/17's in the rear. brand new falken rt-615. How do the Falkens hold up to track use? Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Lets not forget that 3.545 was also stock rear end ratio for the 280Z originally, I am not 100% certain how broad the application is but I know my 75 has one. I realize that the engine and transmission are TOTALLY different from stock S30 (duh) but still, my point is that a 3.545 isn't some crazy tall diff ratio for a Z-car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight! The VQ has a nice flat torque curve, so the 3:54 might be good. All I know is my NA L28 track car would be a total dog with a 3.54 in it. I'm sure it has to do with the 81ZX vs 350Z trans ratios too. I'm running a R200 3.9 CLSD in there now, and have run a R190 4.44 LSD in it (until the pinion seal let go). If I can get the parts for the R190 I'm going to give that ratio another shot. Of course your VQ has at 50ft-lbs and 50 more hp than the L28 in my track car. That helps for sure. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 You guys also have to keep in mine these vq's use a close ratio 6 speed....the 6th is NOT a overdrive. It can take advantage of using the taller gear. i am running 3.7's and it is the shortest gear i would go thats for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight! What was the top speed you've hit in it so far? Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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