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whats the strongest u joint for a datsun halfshaft


Guest 1fastz

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SIgh 4 more halfshafts blown to HELL in one night

 

every single one same thing BROKEN u joint.

 

nos in first gear -= dead halfshaft now..

 

somone help me

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They are solid joints with no grease zerk on them.my friends usually get them at the shop where they get shafts cut and balanced.I`ve gotten them at advance auto parts,for my chevy truck,the front shafts in my 4x4 ranger,and the front axles in my explorer.Even if they don`t list a part# for the Z,you should be able to measure them and have them cross referenced.If you get some and they work well,be sure to list the part#`s for all to see.If you have any problems crossing them, list the measurments and I`ll have a friend(advance store magr)see what he can do.He`s found things for me before that other advance stores swore wern`t available or didn`t exist

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Is this the information you are looking for

http://www.neapco.com/99neapcouj.pdf

www.pepboys.com sells the joints

long is using them on his z according to his page

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/longta/

But dont you think they got to be a lot bigger to make any difference.

A viper uses similar axles just much bigger

www.apexmotorsports.net claims they can make halfshafts that can handle 800 and 1200 hp for a viper.

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Has anyone gone to a professional driveline fabricator and had a set custom built? After a long disscussion on CV joints, the owner of our local Northern colorado drivelines claims he can make a set of 1/2 shafts that would be near indestructable. If the stock and aftermarket joints aren't strong enough, why not get some bigger ones made?.. OOps. Read the whole thread then reply. Like Jens said...

JS

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These joints are only about 15 bucks each.For that, I`d give it a shot before the cost of custom fabbing.the worst that can happen is that they wouldn`t work.In my opinion they would hve to be better than stock.HEY...they`ve got a lifetime warrantee.if they break return them,then your only out the labor.(just don`t tell`em what you were doing with them)I dunnit ba`for shifty.gif

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Guest super280z

Dean,

 

have you found the url for the independent 9 inch yet? i think this thingy outta work for your application. if not i'd be looking at a c4 dana 44 or so. good luck,

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Guest Anonymous

Most of the hardcore C4 guys don't care much for the Moroso Brute Strength U-joints. They all claim the Dana cold forged solids are the hot ticket. Many of them said they had problems breaking the Moroso's, then switched to the Dana's and all the problems went away.

 

From what I understand, the problem with the Moroso U-joint is with the sharp, 90 degree angle on the bearing surface transition. The Dana u-joints have a filleted edge, much like a crankshaft that has a filleted radius between the bearing surface and the crank.

 

Again, I don't know this for sure because I have not held each one in my hand, but it may be worth looking into.

 

I'll see if I can dig up some more info.

 

Mike

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Well two things..

 

1 I told a local driveling shop I would pay abotu anythign for a custom half shaft..

 

PROBLEM .. the haflshaft has to hav ea slide joint in the middle fo they realy cant make me anything..

 

Its not a solid tube half shaft.

 

2. solid ujoints of any kind will be a lot stronger then the ones with the hollow middles..

 

I need to get me a set and I will try them >> the original datsun ujoints are strognest BUt its a bitch to find a non replaced ujoint shaft in the junkyard..

 

I am tryign to avoid the exspense of a custom 9 inche independant rear.

 

Also I can NOT ladder bar or 4 link the car the classes i run in for street cars < where im always the fastest > do not allow ANY traction aids but bolt on traction bars

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Try the Pep Boy's solid joints first. It's dirt cheap to try them and perhaps you'll get longer life out of them. I have one of them myself but it didn't seem to fit real well and I gave up - I no longer have any backup shafts reay to roll. This is why I went to CVs.

 

IF the solid joint is no better try the CVs. It's worth a shot since the next step up is a 'Vette or solid rear. Scottie will soon be exploring the 'Vette solution so if you can hold off he'll have data to share and maybe we'll find that it's better. His install certainly sounded less traumatic than a 9inch would be...

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Guest super280z

just so you know,

 

fast cheap reliable

 

pick two.

 

1fstz, im really hoping that you do find a suitable shaft for you application. it seems like you're allways getting "shafted" heheh.. when it comes to these things. good luck.

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Guest Anonymous

I'm wondering (out loud), does the 9" install have to be any more tramatic than Scotties Vette rear end? Provided you don't want 15" slicks in the back?

 

In my estimation, the installation is very similar without having to hang the differential in the back no?

 

His side links are identical to your average 4 link mounting points, and you use the stock strut towers and Aldan coil overs like he did and mount those to the 9". I'll admit you probably would have to notch a path for the 9" 's travel, but outside of that, I'm not sure much else would need to be done.

 

I know the rub would be the 4 link mounting points, but those would have to be tied into the cage and into sub frame connectors, and obviously there would be more sprung weight using that setup versus the Vette rear, but it still looks do-able to me IMHO.

 

Wouldn't 8 or 10" slicks hook up most of these cars without resorting to all the sheetmetal/sub-frame fabrication a 'back halved' car typically has to fit those big weenies in the back?

 

Just a thought and/or opinion from someone thats on the fence of solid versus IRS... icon_biggrin.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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I hook fine with 8 inch street slics.. < hoosiers >

 

I can not put in any type of ladder bar Nor alter my frame any for the true street class I run in all the time .

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