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Alternator pulley swap


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Guys,

I am having problem with swapping the pulleys between a Maxima alternator and a 240z one. I have search the post related to this and found that a lot of guys have had problem with pulleys with no follow-up.

 

I have many Hitachi alternator and all the mounts fits on the L6 block. Now, when you take the pulley out which is just held by a bolt, no keyway, the pulley shaft goes into the alternator where has the 240 alternator pulley isn't deep enough. Hope this all make sense.

 

What have you guys done, bought a new pulley, use a bushing inside the pulley... I am lost here, I must a turned off my engineering button this friday night.

 

I know some of you have done it, but how?

Thanks

Dayz

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I've done several of the Maxima alternator swaps and you must use a bushing to space the S30 pulley away from the Maxima alternator so it doesn't rub. But, even with the bushing/spacer there is still enough threads exposed on the shaft so you can tighten the pulley nut.

Edited by zcarnut
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Here are the pics for more understanding.

 

1- Pulley depth in the Maxima Alternator. The 240z Alternatoris flat.

 

09122008-014.jpg

 

09122008-018.jpg

 

2- Pulley ID is exactly the same (240z and the maxima one)

 

240z

09122008-020.jpg

 

Maxima

09122008-021.jpg

 

3- The difference in height in the pulley. this is my problem. If I just put a bushing behind the pulley, 1/8 of the pulley will be on the shaft, and no space to bolt it.

 

09122008-026.jpg

 

Hope this will be easy ! Where can I find another pulley?

Thanks

Dayz

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IIRC I swapped a pulley from a 280zx alternator over to the Maxima

alt as it's a little larger than the 240z pulley which helps the output at idle with the lights on etc. I also had to grind the spacer/bushing a little to get things to clear. I wasn't thrilled with it, but it's been on for more than 5k miles and all is still well. I definitely had more than 1 thread engaged.

 

Perhaps someone here has a pulley off of a dead alt they can send?

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IIRC I swapped a pulley from a 280zx alternator over to the Maxima

alt as it's a little larger than the 240z pulley which helps the output at idle with the lights on etc. I also had to grind the spacer/bushing a little to get things to clear. I wasn't thrilled with it, but it's been on for more than 5k miles and all is still well. I definitely had more than 1 thread engaged.

 

Perhaps someone here has a pulley off of a dead alt they can send?

 

 

A larger alternator pulley would not help at idle. A larger pulley on the alternator will slow the RPM of the alternator compared to using a smaller pulley.

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You're right six shooter, my bad. I was thinking of the 280zx damper pulley I had swapped (which is larger than the stock 240). Of course that's irrelevant to this discussion - sorry for the confusion.

 

Still, I'm pretty sure I did use a 280zx pulley which, after grinding the bushing/washer, fit ok.

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You're right six shooter, my bad. I was thinking of the 280zx damper pulley I had swapped (which is larger than the stock 240). Of course that's irrelevant to this discussion - sorry for the confusion.

 

Still, I'm pretty sure I did use a 280zx pulley which, after grinding the bushing/washer, fit ok.

 

LOL, yeah the increased size of the crank pulley will help at idle, which I'm thinking about swapping from the 280ZX engine I have in to my 240, to get better idle charge. I already have the smallest pulley I can on the alternator now.

 

Dayz, yes I have the complete engine here, has an alternator on it.

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  • 5 years later...

Reviving an old thread... What year maxima alternator did you do this swap with?

1990 Maxima.  Autolite #14661.

I initially purchased a rebuilt from my local parts store and it failed within 2 years.  The warranty replacement is now making noise with higher electrical loads, so I wouldn't recommend Autolight...

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I take it this is for the 95A Rated Capacity of the 90-95 Maxima Alternator?

I have been doing parts catalog searches as some Bosch replacements come without a pulley...this same alternator is supposed to fit 'bolt in' on the Suzuki F6A Turbo I have in my Van (though with 657CC's powering the alternator will likely be all it can to at full output! 1.3 KW on a 47KW Engine...)

The later Zukis came with a 6 Rib Belt, and I fear the discussions I have been reading have been geared around the later belt system, and not the V-Belt on my Van, and on our Z's.

The key seems to be a special nut with an offset clamping surface, and spacer for behind the pulley. Making one on a CNC should be child's play if the dimensions can be finalized, and then proper thread engagement / clamping can be accomplished, and the pulley will fit correctly. 

Come to think of it, with a lathe, you could make a nice pulley for the thing with the step already in there so you don't need a spacer!

 

I digress... Will watch to see what you guys come up with, and likely will be buying a new unit from an Auto-Parts Store 'blind' this week to pack in my suitcase along with the two Crane XR700's, valve stems, and various other parts that have been flooding our Corporate Shipping Dock in PA this past week in anticipation of my arrival for the annual Self-Criticisim and Large Character Painting Ritual.

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I installed a '92 maxima alternator in my ZX. I ground down the stock ZX alternator pulley spacer/bushing to get the proper depth for the pulley on the Maxima alternator. The main issue I had was with the ZX split pulley. I could not keep the nut tight enough and unfortunately the pulley would loosen after a while. I ended up welding the two pulley halves together, getting a larger nut, drilled the nut and shaft of the alternator and safetied it with .050 safety wire. Its been good for over two years now.

 There were no bracket mods required. It bolted right up to the stock ZX brackets. When I got the alternator out of the wrecked Maxima I also took a portion of the harness with the alternator plug. I didn't cut the ZX harness at all.

 Another thing to consider would be to run a larger wire from the alternator to the battery, Before I did that the main fusible link would get very hot. I just ran a 2 gauge jumper form the terminal on the alternator to the battery via the starter and left the ZX wiring as well. No more hot fusible links and I get 14.2 volts at 800 rpm fully loaded.

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