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HybridZ

Bad Break up(Resets,Grounding,Noise Problems)


jeffer949

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Ok guys it was still resetting so i decided to go all out and do the separate dirty grounds and dirty +12v as in this post.

http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=285&start=10

I havent hooked up the grounds or the power yet but i will get that done tomorrow.

 

It was resetting pretty bad today and this is the only thing im changing so we will see how much it helps.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I have the same problem your having.I narrowed it down to my iat sensor picking up emi from the distributor . My intake air temp was mounted close to the throttle body on my intercooler piping 3" which is pretty close to the distributor and the coil wire runs underneath it. Ive used both types closed element and open element to no avail . Then i actually removed the sensor while still connected and placed it by the battery tray and Voila! no resets .When i would touch the sensor threads on the piping when it was running the ecu would reset .

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  • 3 months later...

Dude, after reading this entire thread was this issue ever solved? I've read a bunch of threads now about resets and this is the very thing that has me nervous about going with Megasquirt. Is MSII more robust than MS1?

BTW, I'm considering using a set or Turbo Supra 440 injectors (3 ohms)that I picked up for my build and wondering if I'm asking for more problems with them?

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Dude, after reading this entire thread was this issue ever solved? I've read a bunch of threads now about resets and this is the very thing that has me nervous about going with Megasquirt. Is MSII more robust than MS1?

BTW, I'm considering using a set or Turbo Supra 440 injectors (3 ohms)that I picked up for my build and wondering if I'm asking for more problems with them?

 

Just make sure ignition stuff stays away from other stuff and you shouldn't really have problems. I made my own 3.0 board and relay box. Everything tested out right the first time and I've had no EMI, resets, burned components, etc. I had already revamped the power system so it had proper grounds, fuses instead of fusible links, etc. I used EDIS at the same time. The only thing I had to go back and change was switching the two wires at the crank sensor. :-)

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I have not had problems with my own installs. The one install the friend did, which is detailed in this thread, had problems do to poor installation. I think it comes down to poor gournding, poor connections, poor soldering of boards and running noisy signals next to the rest of the wiring without shielding. I have avoided all those issues and have not had problems with my installs on many different engines in many different cars.

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Yes I will second the fact that my situation is RARE It hasnt been doing it now for probaly 3 months after i did that very extensive modification to my board. But you do have to realize that my car ran perfectly with no signs of resets for over a year and then they started popping up. Dont let this discourage you from going MS im planning on keep running it when i swap over to my 2jz

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  • 2 months later...

I have two different boards both running MSII and I've found the 3.57 board I got from DIY to be more resistant to noise in general. Probably the number one thing I noticed was a reduction of noise and zero resets after switching to magnacores.

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  • 5 months later...

Well its been a long time since I have posted on here. Getting back into racing motocross and getting engaged has kept me busy and away from doing anything on my Z. It has been back to daily driver status after a winter off. It was doing a few resets when I first got it back on the road. But I did a very simple mod that since I did it has alleviated all my resetting issues. All I did was shorten the nuts that hold the relay cable to the case. If you look at the case you will notice that the DB37 is behind the case and there is a hole cut out for it and for the matching db37 to mate fully. But the studs that you bolt the relay cable to are on top of the case and keep the relay cable from fully seating onto the other db37. So i just ground off the thickness of the cases on the studs and since i did that I havent had a single reset. So Im not going to say that its fixed but its been a solid 3-4 months of no resets and it has been running pretty well as daily driver status. I am having issues while under boost but i just keep it off of boost for now till i can get it figured out. Well i hope that makes sense and helps people.

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  • 1 month later...

Helpful sticky,

I thought I was having reset issues and it looked just like every other log, turns out not to be the case.

Acceleration enrichment was set to TPS and for some reason it is spiking. It basically was flooding for a split second and returning to normal. After doing that enough times the plugs would begin to foul and make it run even worse. Switched over to MAP based and problem stopped instantly.

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