Geking Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I would like to get some help identifying my 1996 LT1. It does have iron heads, and also has the B-Body pump, yet it has 2 knock sensors. I am lead to believe that only the Corvette had 2 knock sensors, thus my confusion. Given that, is there a cheap cam/lifter combo you can recommend to liven things up a little? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I would like to get some help identifying my 1996 LT1. It does have iron heads, and also has the B-Body pump, yet it has 2 knock sensors. I am lead to believe that only the Corvette had 2 knock sensors, thus my confusion. Given that, is there a cheap cam/lifter combo you can recommend to liven things up a little? Thanks! all 1996 corvettes had aluminum heads, so its probably from an impala or similar car, what are the block and head casting numbers and vin codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 grumpyvette: I have a question. I am building a SBC 383 engine. There are 8 each 3/8-7/16 holes in the casting above the camshaft in the valley. Apparently these are for oil drainback. This 383 is being built as a performance engine for road racing, drag racing and street driving. Would like to plug the 8 oil drain back holes so that oil is not whipped around the crankshaft from the drain back from these holes. Also want to put an aftermarket oil pan that has baffling and will accomodate the Big Block Moroso Oil Pump that I have put onto it. The reason for the Big Block pump is that there are more teeth on the pump gears and therefore less chance of spark chatter induced into the distributor due to more teeth on the oil pump gears and the fact that the Moroso pump has anti cavitation grooves machined into it. What are your thoughts regarding the drain back holes etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) while its true that pumping oil, falling from the lifter gallery , around the crankcase with the rotating assembly, adds some drag and costs some hp, adding a correctly fitted windage screen and high capacity baffled oil pan to route that draining oil back to the sump efficiently minimizes the loss, and your forgetting that oil spray helps lube the rings and cam and cools the pistons, Ive seen more problems caused than solved restricting oil drain back. I don,t restrict oil drain back, I use a windage screen and high capacity baffled oil pan designed to route the oil efficiently back to the sump, in theory at least the vast majority of the return oil flow will only make it dragged around about 240 degrees of the cranks rotational arc ONCE, but then Ive always prized absolute durability and dependability over getting the last possible 4-5 hp from an engine if it might lower that dependability theres an old saying "in order to WIN races the first requirement is FINISHING RACES IN RUNNING CONDITION" Edited July 1, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Grumpyvette: Your points are well taken. I will not restrict these drainback holes. This is a Hydraulic Roller Cam block so there is not much concern about cam lobe lubrication. On the other hand there is concern about lubrication of the roller bearings in the lifters. David Vizard had a method of drilling/machining the block such that there would be oil squirter orfices added to the block. The pictures were not very clear. The other consideration is loss of oil pressure or volume. The pistons are ceramic coated crowns and should transmit much less heat to the underside. The pistons are 4032 Forged SRP and are about the lightest available at 376gm each and lighter than Mahle equivalents. Now I just need a really good road racing oil pan. Have found same at Speedway Motors and it accomodates a Big Block Oil Pump. Trouble is, where ever you look on the Internet, None of the manufacturers give you a clear PICTURE of the inside of the pan to know what you are getting. Any suggestions on Racing Oil Pans with built in baffles and windage screen? Please advise. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 this is a factory produced hamberger oil pan but its a decent example of what can be fabricated TEL: (562) 921-0404 http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/ other options http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/supergascompstreetpans.htm http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11330 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Easy questions here: 1) When should you have your heads decked? I've been told that every time the heads come off of the block they need to be decked to be true to provide a good mating surface to avoid blowing a head gasket. Conversely, I've also been told that cleaning the surface up with a gasket scraper and solvent is sufficient. 2) How do you determine which length pushrods you need to use? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Easy questions here: 1) When should you have your heads decked? I've been told that every time the heads come off of the block they need to be decked to be true to provide a good mating surface to avoid blowing a head gasket. Conversely, I've also been told that cleaning the surface up with a gasket scraper and solvent is sufficient. cleaning carefully with solvent and a scraper is sufficient for their reuse if the heads clamping surface remains truly strait and flat 2) How do you determine which length pushrods you need to use? Thanks buy carefully adjusting the length of a test push rod to center the wear mark on the valve tip, before ordering new push rods or verifying before using old ones if they are the correct length http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ http://www.thedirtforum.com/pushrodlengths.htm http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0609_pushrod_length/index.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_setting_pushrod_length/index.html http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=697 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Patterson Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Grump, I've got one for you 350 SB chevy that was rebuilt had bad lifter bore and poor oil flow to valve train. Rebuilt with differne tblock still has bad flow to valve train. They all ooze oil except one lifter thats pumps out a continuous stream. Oil press is 60 psi at idle. Ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) It sounds like you've re-used defective lifters from what your saying, all lifter bores ooze some oil, thats what keeps the lifter bores lubed, but the lifters are only supposed to flow oil up the push rods if the rockers compressing the valve springs, now that assumes you have the correct clearances, if your using 1.6:1 ratio rockers on the stock heads without elongating the slots and the push rods bind slightly the seals broken between the push rods, rockers and lifters and they leak, if you used Pontiac lifters the oil feed band is in the wrong location, they fit, have the same bore and length, and look very similar, if you adjusted the lifters to tight they won,t work correctly. I don,t know the oil viscosity but if its 60 psi at idle your viscosity is too thick for the clearances or your using a high volume oil pump with a defective bye-pass circuit http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=126 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=196 Edited July 26, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Patterson Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Grump, The lifters ooze oil out the pushrods no pumping action.; one lifter has a constant stream out of it. I had a problem with low oil flow with the last set of lifters also. They were GM rollers. The heads are aluminum edelbrock with guide plates and long slot ProForm 1.5's. Oil is 5w-30 brand new. Engine is brand new less than an hour of time on it. The 60 psi at idle makes me think I have a restriction somewhere. I adjusted the pushrods with the engine running. Loosen until they get noisy tighten untill quiet and add 1/2 a turn. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcraft Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 a couple of months ago i bought a 1971 240z it has a 383 stoker 405 hp with m-22 muncie and lsd r 200 the car handles great and really holds the road but i guess like many i thought i would be able to smoke the tires at 20 miles an hr i cant i see all the videos of 240 that just blow mine away im talking to a guy at smre about a procharger ,intercooler,with a new blow thru carb he says my engine reliably cant go more than 500 hp wat u think.my dream is to bld a 800 hp twin turbo small block in the future so i thought i can get used to the whole forced induction thing while adding 100hp.ive been investigating this tt sbc and its about 20000 done rt any ideas on how i can cut that in half i never built an engine and dont have the tools only the desire ,which really keeps it expensive.what tools would i need and how much would it cost to set up a garage to build an engine like this?it seems like everyone is building there own engines but i would think the cost of tools and guages,meters and what have u is real expensive.how do you do it??thanks for the time im mechanical but a newbie (obviously lol) when it comes to auto repair ,but would love some guidance on all these issues....on a diff. note my tach doesent register under 1500 rpm when cold but then works decent when engine is hot??? msd hei module heres the engine i have from blueprint maybe the chep way would be nitrous? what would u do? 4 bolt main 2pc rear seal block w/Passenger side dipstick (drivers side available upon request) Square and parallel decked Align honed main bearing bore Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness Rotating Assembly: New SCAT cast crankshaft Keith Black Hypereutetic pistons Chevy heavy beam rods with 150,000 psi bolts Hastings Moly rings Balanced rotating assembly Melling high volume oil pump Flat tappet hydraulic lifter camshaft Heavy duty double roller timing set Cylinder Heads: New Cast iron "vortec" heads 1.25 diameter valve springs Hardened retainers and springs 2.02 swirl polished intake valves 1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves 1.5 long slot, stamped steel rockers Hardened push rods A Ton Of Extras: Professional Products dual plane satin finish intake manifold 9.5 to 1 compression New chrome valve covers Brass freeze plugs Dyno tested – and shipped with results Comes with 30 month / 50,000 mile warranty Driver side dipstick is available-please specify when ordering Blueprint Engines recommends 91 Octane for this engine and a 2000-2400 RPM stall converter Critical Specs: Stroke: 3.75 Rod Length: 5.7 Camshaft: .487Int / .508 Exh & 234 Int / 244 Exh duration @ .050 - 110 degree lobe sep. Horsepower: 405 Torque: 440 Compression Ratio: 9.5 to 1 Ignition Timing: 13 to 16 Degree Initial / 34 Degree Total Spacer Corner Bottom Grid Corner Spacer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleakdragonmage Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 hey grumpy, i have a problem with my 350swap. The engine is a GM crate 350 and i have tried both a quadrajet, and a holley650 to no avail. The car idles a little high in park(around 1200, and there is a video in my thread in this forum) but when i put it into drive(or reverse) it will die, or it will bog really low, like 550rpm and kind of chug then die. Would that be timing, or do i have something hooked up wrong. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 step one, take a deep breath, do some serious research before doing anything else, this will get you started http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Real-World-High-Performance-Turbocharger-S/dp/1932494294/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1248655632&sr=1-1 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=636&p=850#p850 http://www.joby.se/corvette/mods/2005-10-16_turbo/ http://www.joby.se/corvette/mods/2008-01_turbo/ http://www.montygwilliams.com/ http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1256 http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article021/A21-P1.htm http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1215 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Grumpy, I have a Gen-I SBC and wanted to know where to the temp sender would be best installed. Is there a big difference in coolant temperatures between the front of the block versus the rear, and/or including the intake manifold cross ports? Right now my sender is in the rear driverside port on the intake manifold. Thanks, Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 most guys use the front intake coolant passage mount location or an adapter and use one of the threaded holes in the cylinder heads, theres not going to be a huge difference in any case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Hey grumpy! Finally got the engine built, and now I'm trying to get everything all wrapped up so we can stick it in the camaro. I've had a lot of suggestions for an intake manifold, but as always, I wanted to confirm with you. The car is 90% street driven, so I'm focusing on the low end here, which makes me assume I should stick with a good flowing dual plane. What I've been suggested is aedelbrock rpm air gap with a 1" carb spacer to increase plenum volume, but I remember you saying that a single plane intake was better for cams with more duration. Cam is a .468/.485 lift, 290/300 dur on a 114 degree lsa. Engine is a 355 with TRW 4 valve relief forged flat tops. Heads are gasket matched 882's with a heavily upgraded valve train. Compression should be about 9.0-9.5:1. Exhaust is a set of long tube headers into purple hornies. Ignition is an AC Delco HEI. Carb is a 600cfm Holley with vacuum secondaries. What would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 please post a link to the exact cam your using, but with only 9.5:1 cpr, a 600cfm carb and 882 heads your almost certainly in the edelbrock dual plane air gap range and Id doubt the 1" carb spacer to increase plenum volume, will help unless its the 4 hole design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXCASE801 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Hello Sir, On a SBC swap in a 280Z, what is the best accessory bracket route to go to have the hood close and keep the a/c ? All i have is the water pump, alt and a/c to run. I have looked all over and can not find the answer. I have a VORTEC engine out of a 98 chevy truck and am running a carb. Next question is would you use the datsun elec fuel pump or remove it and go to a sbc mech pump? 2 line or 3 ? and would you replace the datsun line and replace it to 3/8" ? I appreciate your help. Thanks JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar_munoz123 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 So i brought my 76 280z (2+2) over to a mechanic and told me that the distributor wasn't working so i brought him over another one to replace it and said it was different so thats when i thought should'nt all distributors from the z's be the same...??? I mean 72-76 should be the same right...??? Please reply Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.