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What is your impression on the dittmer intake for a 383 11.5:1 race gas ,solid roller,afr 210 race headed motor running the 4000-7000 rpm range drag only? I am trying to compare to a super victor. I know an adaptor is needed for my 850 holley and throttle response and high velocity is desired.Mid range torque should be simular ,I just don't want to loose top end. I have searched but found no testing results

Thanks for input...Rick

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Id love to help here but IVE never tested that intake so I can,t comment on the results, with anything meaningful to add.

On that type of engine IVE always prefered single stack per runner injection, for the ability to individually tune each runner length and air/fuel ratio

 

http://www.kinsler.com/page--Manifolds--6.html

 

http://www.kinsler.com/page--GM--17.html

 

or even

 

http://www.hilborninjection.com/

 

http://www.inglese.com/Products/

Edited by grumpyvette
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IM still buying , table vices, cutting bits, bit holders, coolant pumps, coolant oil, drill chucks etc and teaching my sons (verbally as I watch and instruct them)how to set it up and use it, my old leg and back injuries make doing most things required on the machine myself very difficult or totally impossiable at this time, so I need to relie on my sons at times to get things done for me.

as Im

sure your aware the milling machine is just the basic tool, and theres a good deal more expence in the accessories necessary to get it to function, and trying to instruct a new guy when you can,t acctually demonstrate things at times is fustrating

 

heres the machine they get to learn on

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Shop-Fox-Vertical-Mill-9-x-49-/T20828

Grumpyvette: I am in the same mode with the Lathe. Its an old one about as old as I am and I am retired. Got it leveled and tested for accuracy and it good. Now I need a New Quick Change Tool Post. Then I will be looking for a follow rest, Tool Bits, Milling Vise attachment, Lathe Dog for flat plate etc etc. For a used Lathe, I am more than satisfied at the moment. Just got done repainting most of it NAVY gray.

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I've got a '72 Z with an SBC, 650 CFM carb, Holley red electric fuel pump, and a 700R4 trans. After sustained periods of driving uphill the car starts to stutter and then stalls out. It restarts right away and runs fine after that. I replaced the fuel filter and adjusted the bowls but that didn't fix it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

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If its a fuel supply related problem, like you tend to think,if you've got a FUEL PRESSURE GAGE installed on the car with a sensor near the carbs fuel inlet line it would probably indicate the pressure drop or reduced flow, tracking the cause should be fairly easy by simply placing the front wheels up on ramps and allowing the car to idle.

cars with return style fuel pressure regulators and electric fuel pumps located lower than the fuel tank and at the rear of the car,are usually less prone to similar problems so if you don,t currently have that it might be to your advantage to swap.

you may also have the floats or needle/seat, set incorrectly or just low fuel pressure at the cab.

having a fuel pressure gauge correctly hooked up on the dash, so you can see the fuel pressure at the carb inlet ,while driving gives you a big advantage when trouble shooting.

and having a return style fuel pressure regulator and return line style system will tend to prevent problems

Edited by grumpyvette
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grumpy!

 

i figured I'd ask here rather than just make a blind post somewhere else.

 

So I'm rebuilding a VG33 engine, same as the VG30E that came in the Z31 Z's pretty much... damn near identical to the 1987 VG30ET in my car.

 

However, I'm torn between whether I should tear it apart and have it honed lightly and put new rings. Some of the cylinders have areas in the bore that you cannot feel with your hand at all... with the fleshy part of my finger i can BARELY feel any difference, and it sure has hell isn't enough to even catch anything sharp like a finger nail or even a sewing pin.

 

it looks something like the mark in the MIDDLE of the bore in this picture that I found on someone elses page. (not the one at the piston ridge):

 

see here (small dark mark in middle of bore): http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/53355220

 

The engine only has 60,000m on it, or 98,000km as they say... But the valve train looked like it was soccer-mom'd all it's life and probably never got passed 2000rpm, horribly oil sludged too, but i soaked the head in varsol and it's decomposing the oily substrate and allowing it to melt away.

 

see here (super high-res): http://rb30de.com/vg33e/_DSC4495.JPG

 

Is this somethign to be worried about? An SBC friend of mine was telling me that it's usually just indifferent metal perhaps more nickel content in that area or less perhaps... and that if you can't catch your finger nail in it, it should be ok.

 

But I can rub my finger on it an it feels slightly lower, but definately not a gouge or scratch by any means.

 

I don't want to re-hone so I'm just looking for someone to tell me some solid advice. if it's a must or not. I'll take pics of my own later today.

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when the rings don,t contact the cylinder walls evenly it would appear your cylinders were honed without use of TORQUE PLATES that allow the head bolts to be torqued to specs before the cylinder walls are honed, use of a torque plate insures the cylinder walls are pulled back into the same lack of distortion that clamping the heads on the block results in,vs the distorted shape they tend to have without that clamp load holding the cylinder walls into the shape and tension the engine actually runs under.

 

read this thread

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1024962

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=588

Edited by grumpyvette
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if you read thru the thread I posted youll see that the areas near the head bolts are distorted and ring seal will not be ideal, the degree you would (WORRY) about that is in exactly the same percentage of how critical it is to you to maximize the engines ring seal and compression, the engine will run if you just hone the cylinders and install new rings, but it will never get the full potential ring seal or power it would if you have the engine honed with deck torque plates, that will tend to make the bore truely round when its assembled vs slightly hexagonal or pentagonal (depends on the number of head bolts) if you don,t.

look thousands of engines are assembled both ways, they all run, but use of a torque plate tends to allow better ring seal and less compression losses

Edited by grumpyvette
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http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

 

http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html

 

Big Chevy

 

Fastener Type Torque Specs

 

Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs.

Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs.

3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs.

7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs.

Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs.

Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs.

Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs.

Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs.

Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs.

Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs.

Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.

Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs.

Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.

Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs.

Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs.

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Torque.gif

Edited by grumpyvette
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i have a stock zz4. what mods should i do to burn rubber @ 60mph.

my plan is to put it in a 1972 240z with a 700r4.

My other question is what drive line or axle upgrades are required.

Installation seems not to be too complicated with not too much fabrication but before i jump in I want to know what im getting into.

In other words i dont want to step on the gas and everything else in the car breaks

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you need to step back and think thru the goal and budget and your skill level and tool access,

 

that tag line comes from my old race corvette,

a corvette that would destroy tires and suspension at will, it had a 13.7:1 compression ratio roller BBC engine with crower injection, that only ran on race gas,approximately 750hp/600 tq, and tire/suspension technology was far less able to deal with the massive power available.

now I can easily give you the engine specs but it was barely street drivable, required a full roll cage, a tubed rear and a narrowed dana 60 differential and 4 link suspension and surely would twist a 700r4 into junk the first time you launched the car

 

ok, lets look at a slightly more realistic goal for a swap , unless your really after a killer race combo

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=312

 

do these look like something you choose to build, and keep in mind your looking at a minimum of about $27K-$30K plus a donor car to do it close to correctly

Edited by grumpyvette
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Hi grumpyvette.

 

I have read all the 327 posts i can find and i cannot escape the thought that it might be a waste money to rebuild this motor.

 

Block #(3892657) bored .040 over, 10 to 1 comp. flat top pistons, has 1.94 camel hump heads #(3890462), old torker manifold, the cam i think is called a "purple cam" 350 horse, holley 650 vacuum secondaries.

The block is bad (water in the bore and rusted) so i need new one.

Heads need hardened seats/valve giudes.

 

I have a 73' 240z thats striped inside, want to use a t5 trany to keep price down and i am looking for a diff with a 3.9 ratio.

 

Also i want a ruff idle and more high end power than low and i am thinking of using 180 headers.

 

Is worth it for a 350hp small block or should i go buy a crate motor like a zz4. My budget is 5k for motor.

Thank you for your time!

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Hi grumpyvette.

 

I have read all the 327 posts i can find and i cannot escape the thought that it might be a waste money to rebuild this motor.

 

Block #(3892657) bored .040 over, 10 to 1 comp. flat top pistons, has 1.94 camel hump heads #(3890462), old torker manifold, the cam i think is called a "purple cam" 350 horse, holley 650 vacuum secondaries.

The block is bad (water in the bore and rusted) so i need new one.

Heads need hardened seats/valve giudes.

 

I have a 73' 240z thats striped inside, want to use a t5 trany to keep price down and i am looking for a diff with a 3.9 ratio.

 

Also i want a ruff idle and more high end power than low and i am thinking of using 180 headers.

 

Is worth it for a 350hp small block or should i go buy a crate motor like a zz4. My budget is 5k for motor.

Thank you for your time!

 

 

the answer depends on your goals and expectations, a 327 is an excellent starting point if you want a high reving low torque power plant that produces good hp over a wide rpm range, the problem is simple economics, (BTW water in the bore is more likely a cracked head or bad head gasket)

 

to get a 327 to is full potential you'll want to install stronger 7/16" rod bolt connecting rods and forged high compression pistons, a good valve train to deal with the high stress at the upper 5500rpm-7500rpm range the engine is capable of operating in with the correct components, a decent solid lifter cam and decent heads, along with an improved intake and exhaust, etc,

you'll want a manual transmission (which you listed) and a rear gear ratio that will not be great for cruising and mileage,(which you have) and you'll need to keep the rpm range up to get good hp,all that's fine in a race car, or a car that's basically a weekend toy.

 

the problem is that by the time you price all the components necessary for a dependable forged/balanced 327,you'll find you could build a 383-396 displacement sbc for approximately the same price, and make more torque over the whole rpm range and more peak hp, lets assume a 327 can make 1.35 hp per cubic inch and a 383 can only make 1.2 hp per cubic inch

327 x 1.35= 441 hp

383 x 1.2= 459 hp

and the 383 is far easier on the valve train, the 383 will have noticably more torque over most of the rpm band, will less likely to be a p.i,.t.a. driving in traffic and can use an auto trans far easier, if you chose to do so

 

now keep that in mind, you have choices, either you rebuild with a new block (if it needs replacing)and have basically your current hp levels in a repaired engine or,you'll be needing a better rotating assembly, a killer solid lifter cam, a new block and those heads are restrictive, or need replacing if cracked, and the current intake needs to see time on ebay

if you want a list of components Ill look thru my notes and we can build a really neat 327, but you'll really want to get better heads, cam, intake a new block etc, so you run into the fact you that basically you can probably re-use the crank, carb, clutch, oil pan, oil pump,starter,water pump,maybe the damper & flywheel,but youll soon see the 383 as a valid option

Edited by grumpyvette
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