LLave Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I recently acquired a very clean looking TPI motor. I am told the motor is "built and built right" with few miles on it. It does look very clean. The question is, where should I start with this mystery motor? How do I determine exactly what I am working with? How should I proceed? TPI is certainly not my first choice of induction set ups but the motor was near free and I am on a budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I would look for numbers on the block. Also lift a valve cover and see what casting number is stamped on the head. Once you have aquired the numbers then do a google search like SBC Casting numbers, etc. John I recently acquired a very clean looking TPI motor. I am told the motor is "built and built right" with few miles on it. It does look very clean. The question is, where should I start with this mystery motor? How do I determine exactly what I am working with? How should I proceed? TPI is certainly not my first choice of induction set ups but the motor was near free and I am on a budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Ok. How about piston and crank identification? Also do you think it would be wise to tear down the motor and replace the bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerminator96 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Ok. How about piston and crank identification? Also do you think it would be wise to tear down the motor and replace the bearings? The block casting number should give you an idea of the internals, or course, if it was rebuilt with new internals then pull the oil pan and get the numbers off your crank, rods, and pistons. The biggest thing is the heads though, if you have mid-80s factory TPI heads you are going to be severely limited in power. If it actually has just a few miles on it you shouldn't need to replace the bearings, but that's really up to you. Bearings are cheap, unlike machining the block/rotating assembly after something lets go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 Thanks. My current plan is just throw this motor in the car as it is and concentrate on sorting out my chassis. Then later build a good motor to replace it with. That might sound like a lot of extra work but I just need to drive this thing before I get completely burnt out on wrenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerminator96 Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Thanks. My current plan is just throw this motor in the car as it is and concentrate on sorting out my chassis. Then later build a good motor to replace it with. That might sound like a lot of extra work but I just need to drive this thing before I get completely burnt out on wrenching. Been there and done that. There is a world of difference between a project stuck in the garage and one you can take out and drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 Been there and done that. There is a world of difference between a project stuck in the garage and one you can take out and drive. Absolutely. I love the building process but it gets really hard to stay motivated. A little seat time and some tire smoke goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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