bryan01 Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 apparently i skimped on one too many parts, during my build i used an XTD stage 3 clutch (6 puck, sprung, ceramic) on ebay for 129$. it said it was 30-40% stronger than stock and could hold up to 430hp (tq ?) but i reread it and i think they were sly with their wording, either way it can't hold it anymore. my car drives great but under low boost (~10psi) it lets go every time. as long as i'm not boosting it does stop and go perfectly, but that's no fun ... any suggestions? at low boost i'm about 330 hp, 270 tq at the wheels and this clutch isnt even pretending to put it to the ground (it's got about 2 hrs of dyno time on it and about an hour max on the road) but at high boost it's almost up to 340 tq ... it's not going to work i saw a few other 6 puck sprung clutches in the 350$ range that may perform better from some websites jgycustoms or phase2 ... any experience with these? i'm trying to avoid a clutch that i dont want to or cant drive on the street. i saw a few that had multiple plates, but they were very expensive, any ideas? what are you running ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Bryan, I am putting down 380 ft/lbs of tq through an ACT sprung 6 puck. HDGS6 or something like that. Worth every penny. I shucked an xtd clutch as well. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 I would suggest looking at South Bend Clutch (DXD Racing) I have purchased several of the clutches. They hold up more than RPS does, and they even have lighter pedal feel. I have been running this clutch for a few years now and its holding up to 1.5 60foot times at the track, and has held over 650rwhp/500rwtq before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 I have heard great things about south bend clutch as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 do they have a website or anything booztd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 When you replace your clutch, get the flywheel machined again and break-in the clutch for 500 miles of regular driving before hitting it with full power. It takes a while for the flywheel/clutch facings/pressure plate to wear in together. My local clutch manufacturer will stand behind their clutches - but only if they are properly broken-in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75&78Z Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Triple, try this http://www.southbendclutch.com/ OR 1-800-988-4345 They're right in my home town. Alot of the muscle car guys around here use them and say they work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmcgetsome Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 what clutch is it from a Z32 or a skyline? rb25det or rb26dett or rb20? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Z32 N/a "NX6-HDSS" from ACT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 I would shoot Clifton a PM. He helped me out choosing my clutch. Tell him your set up and he should be able to help you out. Hes putting down close to 700whp and in the 600's with torque and hes using a single disc clutch still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 The z32 have an 8 bolt crank plate? make sure you buy just the clutch/pressure plate and not a flywheel + clutch pack combo if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 When you replace your clutch, get the flywheel machined again and break-in the clutch for 500 miles of regular driving before hitting it with full power. It takes a while for the flywheel/clutch facings/pressure plate to wear in together.My local clutch manufacturer will stand behind their clutches - but only if they are properly broken-in. that involves rev matching and making a lot of noise in some cases. in ontario, cops will book you for that, but heck, i'll take a 200 dollar ticket and show up to a court session and get the case tossed out rather than do a clutch a second time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 that involves rev matching and making a lot of noise in some cases. in ontario, cops will book you for that, but heck, i'll take a 200 dollar ticket and show up to a court session and get the case tossed out rather than do a clutch a second time! Not really - Just regular stop-and-go driving around town will get it done. What you need is the friction between the surfaces to wear-in the components without the generating a lot of heat which will lead to a glazed/melted friction surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted October 12, 2008 Author Share Posted October 12, 2008 so i cant remove the flywheel to save my life ... any suggestions? the bolts WILL NOT break loose ... i'm afraid of shearing one of them off, which would lead to way more work/problems than if i just left it in there ... the wear on the flywheel surface isnt that bad, it wore evenly over the entire pressure plate contact patch, and grooves are somewhere between superficial and shallow (less than .001) ... they're not reverse threaded or anything like that right? i got 2 different bolts to pop, like they had broken free, but when i pulled again they didnt budge, which would make me believe i was tightening them instead of loosening ... ??? any ideas? at this point i think i'm just going to leave it on there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 They are regular threaded. They were just properly torqued, thats all. Give it all you got, they will break loose.... Are you using a impact gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 My recommendation is to use an impact gun to remove, and obvioulsy hand torque them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Using anything other than an impact gun is a PITA......suggest finding an air compressor and air gun to get this job done.... Judging by some of the questions from the OP, I sense some newbness in this thread....... Ensure you use Locktite threadlocker on the flywheel bolts when re-installing them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Also, you can use a larger electric impact gun, which often times have more torque than the air-powered ones. which threadlocker should be used? Red/Permanent, or Blue/Medium? Red can be broken loose with an impact gun anyways, so I'm just wondering if it's the one to use... EDIT: Another question... Fidanza states that the flywheel bolts going on an Aluminum flywheel need to be torqued higher than the standard steel-flywheel specification... but they don't make mention of how tight... Anyone wanna enlighten me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Oh yeah, don't forget to let that sit in a little bit of WD-40 first if you're scareed. Just make sure you clean your flywheel really good before reinstalling the clutch if you're going to get WD-40 all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Oh yeah, don't forget to let that sit in a little bit of WD-40 first if you're scareed. Just make sure you clean your flywheel really good before reinstalling the clutch if you're going to get WD-40 all over the place. WD-40 gets own3d by PB Blaster in every test I've ever performed. If you havent ever used it, I'd suggest picking up a can of it. It can be had at any major parts store..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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