What do I do with this engine??

[280~Master]

Valmont,

just wondering if you know what your going to do. I would like to put the info out there that, here in the South East Z engines are getting harder to find in good shap. Every now and then we see one in the local pick and pull. in 4 yrs seen about 5 engines.

Here in savannah we have a very experienced Z machanic. One of the best I have ever taken a Z car to. He's been doing Z work since he was a kid. His dad started the business and he took it over when he retired. http://www.carterrace.com/front/ He has built proven race winners and much much more. If you are looking to spend the money to ship the engine, don't save it until you get to Kings Bay and come up to Savannah for a Z meeting and we can work on getting you an engine. I have an N42 and L28 block disassembled sitting in the garage with no plans on rebuilding it. I want to go with turbo L28 or V8. So keep this in mind and come see us when you get here. Its about 115 miles to Savannah and alot quicker than you would think.

[Valmont]

.....and the reason THAT thing runs so well on low octane and high compression is the rod/stroke ratio!!!

 

Isn't that also a main factor of compression ratio? Hopefully I don't sound dumb, because some of these concepts are new to me, but rod/stroke affects piston speed, and there for chamber pressure..? Or, if you physically change stoke, that directly affects your comp. ratio? right?

 

<--confused

 

The shipping company won't ship it as household goods? Or they won't ship a spare engine with your car?...........................

If that is the case, CRATE THE ENGINE. If it's crated, prepackaged, and ODORLESS (meaning drain it, clean it well, and then wrap it in rags and bags) they aren't going to open it, they will just load it in the moving crate. I had suspension members, GAS TANKS, I mean, you name it, I had it in my household goods.......

 

The shipping company told me they wouldn't ship a block period. Also, this is my first PCS move as a married guy, my last three living in the barracks, so no engine stuff, or even garage for that matter. I'm being told that anything that is pre boxed will either be checked in, or will not be shipped, as the shipping company cannot verify the quality of the pack job, and therefore cannot guarantee the items safety.

 

As for the car, the only time now that the military will ship a car for you, is if you are going OCONUS (Hawaii counts too), or if you have a navy forced change of home port. (meaning your job is moving, and you don't have a choice)

 

So, I just have to find a shipping company myself that will let it slide I suppose...

 

 

How about you buy that shell from the wreckers, put some cheap wheels on it (Also from wreckers) and tell them that it is your wife's car, or if you have no wife, your second car.

 

Like I said above, now I'm paying to ship two cars. It must have been so much nicer way back, where if you moved, and you were in the military, if you owned it, they shipped it..

 

Valmont,

just wondering if you know what your going to do. I would like to put the info out there that, here in the South East Z engines are getting harder to find in good shap. Every now and then we see one in the local pick and pull. in 4 yrs seen about 5 engines........

 

This is horrible news, cause where I'm at right now, i can be at any one of a dozen wrecked Zs in twenty minutes. Oh, and believe me, with parts so hard to find, you won't have to worry about me searching out other Z owners to try and find some help. Driving to Savannah is a small price to pay to not sell your car because you can't make repairs.

 

Sorry by the way about going so long without response, but I was on duty.

 

Thanks

 

Val

[Daeron]

...and the reason THAT thing runs so well on low octane and high compression is the rod/stroke ratio!!!

 

Isn't that also a main factor of compression ratio? Hopefully I don't sound dumb, because some of these concepts are new to me, but rod/stroke affects piston speed, and there for chamber pressure..? Or, if you physically change stoke, that directly affects your comp. ratio? right?

 

<--confused

 

It is a very complex thing that I have only gathered an understanding of through reading about. I just migrated to a new PC and can't get all of my bookmarks the easy way, so I cannot link you to any of the great articles that can explain a whole lot, and my understanding isn't yet so solid that I can explain the how and why. The point I was trying to make, was to illustrate that there is no cut and dry "rule" about it, but instead certain engine/engine families have certain tendencies that get discovered over time, regarding combinations of the factors I illustrated and probably more that I forgot or don't even know about yet.

[Valmont]

So, a little update, I was able to convince the guy who owns the shipping company that the navy is subcontracting out to to ship everything, including the block. He came by today, and saw it all apart, and happened to be a straight six lover

 

Speaking of thew tear down, I'll post pics in a bit, but oh my god, I'm so lucky.

Everything inside is pristine.

I think the block may be sleeved, but I'm not entirely sure. There is a definite metal color change, but this is my first time so.. i dunno.

The cylinder walls still have their cross hatch scoring from honing (i think) which I'm told means the engine has less than 5k on it after rebuild. Also my pistons say "P 7" on them if that means anything to anyone.

However, i can't get the crank out because of the center main bearing.

I just can't get my hands in there to break it free because of the crank. We tried (we didn't want to) lifting the crank from the front end, which loosened it up, but not enough.

And I haven't run into it yet, but I can tell the real oil seal/main bearing isn't going to move either.

 

My "how to rebuild your Datsun OHC engine" book came in to B&N tonight, and it says it has a complete tear down/rebuild how to in there, so maybe my answers in there, but I figured I'd ask the seasoned veterans first.

 

Like I said, I'll post pics in a bit just in case I don't know what I'm talking about.

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

Val

 

 

edit: also, if anybody has any tips on how to prepare like new engine parts for shipping, that would be great.. I bought a crap ton of bubble paper, but I don't know...

[2eighTZ4me]

Get an 8x1.25mm bolt and thread it in to the hole on the top of the center main cap. Then get a slide hammer, attach it to the bolt (or attach the slide hammer TO the center main cap with the bolt) and slap away. Should pop right out after a few whacks. The same holds true for the rear main cap. They both have 8x1.25mm holes tapped in them for this very reason.

 

And as for engines being "rare" in the Southeast - phooey to that. There is a place in Norcross, Ga. called Z-Car Atlanta that has no less than 15 good engines sitting on their floor in their warehouse, as well as countless others out in cars in the boneyard. I'm quite surprised that when I did a search for Z Car Atlanta on this site, scant little was returned. It is a Z-Car graveyard with an abundance of usable parts.

[Pharaohabq]

Well I still think putting it all in a box straped in the front seat area would work best for you, but if they'll ship the block then great, no worries.

 

As for the heads, well everything I've read says you probably don't want to use either of those heads if you have a choice. (tho the P79 hear is the better of the two.) what you should do is find a p90 or P90a head off a 82-83 zx. they're hydraulic so you won't have to dick about with the valve spacing, though, definitely read about the valve seals replacement in the stickies at the top of the forum. While it's apart, you might think about putting in some forged pistons or at least Z turbo pistons, so you can add boost later if you decide.

 

Though if it's going to cost you more than about $300 bones to ship it all, then you might just sell it on craigs or Ebay and get another when you get down there. might be hard to sell torn down tho. Good luck, oh and while it's apart, either clean or swap out your engine harness connectors, they're likely corroded.

 

Phar

[2eighTZ4me]

Myself personally - I WOULD hang on to that N42 head and block. The P79 is a decent head as well, but not as "capable" from a performance standpoint. The P90 heads are going to drop compression considerably (especially with dished pistons), which would be fine if you intend to turbo the car. Not so much if you stay NA(unless you shave .080" off and shim the cam towers). I would stay away from the hydraulic lifter heads if at all possible. There are threads on this site from folks that converted the hydraulic lifters to solid, so I can imagine there is a preference of some folks to stay away from the hyd. lifters.

 

WRT pistons - factory turbo pistons are no different from factory NA pistons. You will not gain anything from a cast piston - turbo designation or not. Forged pistons are pricey, and unless you're running boost through the ceiling, are not necessary either.

 

Any combination can be made to run well, it's just a question of what your goals are and what your budget is. Horsepower = $$$ squared.

 

I think right now, you just have to figure out a way to have all your goods shipped to your next destination. I would definitely hang on to what you have if at all possible. You're that much further ahead of the curve when you get to S. Ga. - meaning that you don't have to go scrounging for parts. They'd already be there.

[Daeron]

+1000 on all points.

[Valmont]

so... as a follow up, i ended up just kind of... asking the dude who packed up my house. And he said take it apart and pack it up.. and i did. and its here.

So, here I am GA, and FL, new Z owner, trying to build a fresh engine... now I'm having problems figuring out what gasket set to buy.

Any help there? (figured i'd ask here in lieu of a new thread)

 

Val

[CrazyZdriver110]

Where are you stationed at? If its Benning, I Know of a secret little junkyard that has some parts. Im just up the road if so.

[Valmont]

No, I'm about 200 miles from benning in a little place called Kings Bay, about a mile north of the FL border, on the coast.

[Valmont]

so... 5f4 block, and p79 head... will i be okay buy some ebay gasket set, or one of the 12 black dragon full sets? Hard to figure out, as i don't know what year engine this really is.

[Xnke]

An 81 non turbo set would do, since the '81 non turbos for sure came with that setup.

 

Really, the gaskets are not much different, just little things. Mostly the head gasket, differences in water passages.