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LSD 300z yoke flange


mobythevan

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Has anyone found an adapter for the 300z type round input flange on the diff to chevy type u-joint? I am not interested at this point in swapping the input flange so I can use the neapco adapter. If I can't find anything I will just use a 300z driveshaft to build upon, but someone told me that the u-joint on the 300z driveshaft was welded in?? Anyone have more info on this?

 

Thanks

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Ok, I went out with the calipers and did some measuring. The numbers I came up with look like spicer part number 2-2-1899 will work. Interesting that I measured the flange dia. to be 4.06 and this part shows 4.08(shouldn't matter?) Also, I measured the pilot dia. to be 1.969 and this part shows 1.968 Its probably a dumb question but will a thousandth matter here? I actually can't tell re-measuring it if it is 1.968 or 1.969

 

It looks like spicer part number 2-2-1819 matches my measurements closer, but shows a joint angle of 30?? I guess I'll try to order the 1899 part and see how it matches up, unless you have any heads up here.

 

Bryan

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After talking to the local driveline place I had them order the spicer 2-2-1819 part. I'll post the results. If he can't get that part he is going to order the 2-2-1899. We'll see what fits and I'll let you guys know. The differences between these two parts seem trivial. He explained that the joint angle listed should be the maximum angle allowed for the u-joint not to bind. He wasn't sure why they listed 0 angle for the 1899 part unless there chart was missing info. Both of these parts use the 1310 series u-joint.

 

Bryan

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Cool! This is great info for anyone that finds a 300ZX LSD and doesn't want to swap the flange or try to find the flange that goes with the JTR spec'd flange! Of course, you'll need to clearance or remove the crossmember, but with a Ron Tyler type front diff mount that's not a problem!

 

Way to go!

 

This is FAQ material, jeromio!

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I like that mount that Ron Tyler made. I am sure I will do something similar. what do you think about cutting and removing the center of the origional diff mount. I would only keep each end to support the swing arm but do away completely with the middle. Do you think this would affect the stability for supporting the swing arm? I would incorporate a safety feature so that if the diff rubber mount broke, the front of the diff would be supported. This makes my life simple if I can just cut the origional front diff mount.

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I just have a gut feel for this, but it seems that keeping something between the mount points is a good idea.

 

I realize that there's a desire to get exhaust clearance, but how about this idea:

 

Cut out the center section, between the control arm mount points, leaving enough material to add a shallower section back between them. If you make this piece out of square or rectangular tubing, with the shallow dimension vertical, you could connect the tow pieces you cut off the ends of the crossmember, leave a bunch of room below the new piece between them, and provide a safety "catch" for the bottom of the diff nose to rest on if the mount broke (I doubt you could break the urethane mount though.)

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