Jump to content
HybridZ
75280zguy

car hesistates

Recommended Posts

i just recently bought a 75 280z from a friend it hasnt been daily driven for almost fifteen years.Okay the first couple of days i drove it ran surprisingly well for sitting for so long,but then it started to stall out and hesistate really bad when it got to normal operating temp it gets so bad i can barely drive it its almost like its running to lean.Its got a brand new fuel pump but the old filter i pulled out had really bad blockage changing it helped but it still does it im new to z's and dont know where to start any input would be appreciated ....sorry for the first post it was kinda vauge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the car sat for 15 years, chances are the tank is full of rust and garbage, and you've basically clogged the filter of the new fuel pump again from sucking more of that trash up in there. I'd pull the pump and clean the filter screen again. If it's nasty, pull the tank and take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it out and seal it. You "can" do this yourself with the POR15 product, but I highly doubt you'd want to do it in the Colorado winter... plus it's a nasty mess. Money well spent to have someone else do it.

 

Some things you're better off DIY - but things like this, I've found it's better to pay a professional to do. See what the pump filter looks like first though - my guess is it's clogged again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i asked a couple of my car buddies and they said it almost sounds like a timing issuse as well as fuel. I was just out working on it when i noticed the nipple off the charcoal canister was broke and the line was just dangling its the one for my distributer. Since its vacum advance wouldnt that mean it not advancing like it should

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I first got my 280 I went through 5 fuel filters before I broke down and spent the money on a dipped tank. That problem kept coming up for me...

 

I bought a fuel rail with a pressure gauge on it and if you can get one it helps so much while troubleshooting on the fuel side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude, start with the tank, just had that issue with a ZX I inherited. Timing issues don't usually just happen all of a sudden, unless that line just fell off while you were driving. The whole car should probably be gently massaged before you expect too much from her. Check the resistance on all your plug wires, replace the plugs, etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have a77 280. i got it not running thought it was the fuel pump, the filter, the air sensor, and all kind of other stuff. it would start then when it got to temp just shut off. and some times it wouldn't start. turned out to be the pick-up coil. changed that and have had no problems since. except for a bad volt regulator.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt you suddenly have a timing issue. I would suspect the tank as everyone else is. My 73' sat for years and would run in 3 minute intervals. The tank was full of rusty brown crud. I replaced the tank. You can remove the sender and get a light and mirror and look into the tank. Or when it's running like shiit, measure the return volume of fuel. I don't know what the stock pump flows but it should be at least 15 gallons an hour at 35-40 psi for a 180 hp engine. ( A 255 Walbro is around 40-45 gl/hr) Checking this would rule out a fuel issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most radiator shops that boil the tanks have their own coating that they use. I've had it in my DD for over 12 years now without any problems at all. I would just pony up the extra $$ and have the rad. shop do it for you. Probably just as cheap as the POR stuff, and certainly not as messy. That way, you walk away from the radiator shop with a tank that is ready to bolt in and go. You did say you wanted to drive didn't you?.....:wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is STILL a very good idea to coat the inside of the tank. It might cost $50 bucks, but you have already done ALOT of work taking it off and have more to do to put it on. Sealing it now ensures that it won't leak, rust, or get crudded up again in the future.

 

Its like replacing a timing belt and leaving the old water pump on there. (obviously on a different motor, but im trying to convey a point :) )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not mech if its fuel injected.

 

But I cleaned mine by putting bolts/nuts/shot inside it with solvent, and shook the hell out of it. It got a lot of the deposited rust out before you coat.

 

I had other problems and had to open the tank and fix some, and welded shut, but POR is great to coat the inside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...