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rossman

Ross' Sleeper Z

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Update time!  I've been working on the Z intermittently, the inside part of the floor pans are painted and ready for sound damping.  I'm currently working on the underside, wire brushing the surface rust off.  I'll follow that with Ospho, etch primer then finally 3M underbody coating.

 

Top side of the floor pans done...

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Test fit the S2K seats...yah these are gonna work :)

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Oh, and I got my son his first car, a Z of course :)  2004 with only 37k on the clock. Spoiled rotten kid!

 

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Ah! This is perfect timing for this post. Are those just plain holes in the new rails you made? Or do they have a threaded nut welded on the other side? Last question, did you just use some 1x2 steel for that? 

 

New shell I got doesn't have seat rails and don't quite feel like reusing the originals from my old car since my hair skims the headliner at stock seat height 

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The holes in the rails are currently just plain holes.  I just purchased a cool rivnut installer so I'm planning to drill it out for 1/4" rivnuts.  Regarding the angle, I just used 1x1 angle, tacked it to the sides then welded on 14 gauge to the side to tie in the floors.  If I did it again, I would just use 1x2 as you mentioned.  The challenge is getting the angle to fit on all sides to the irregular shape of the floor.  I made many, many trips back and forth from the car to the bench grinder.  Probably should have just clamped the grinder to the floor pan in the car to save myself so many trips!  If you're that tall I wouldn't recommend using S2K seats.  They sit very tall even with shortened rails.  I'm a tad under 5'11" but have a long torso.  I can only get 3 fingers between my head and the headliner.

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I developed a 280zxt rotor cap for my car.  I'm considering printing/selling more.  Let me know what you think!

Here is version 1.0, test fit on the dizzy.  I didn't spend much time making it look good, just testing the fit. Turns out it fit perfectly.

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Here is version 1.1 as-uploaded to my print queue.  I spent a lot of time sketching the "Z" and optimizing the look.  My printer is a Markforged Mark Two.  The material will be Onyx, a chopped carbon infused nylon.  I'm not sure how well it will stand up to engine heat. My other option is Stratasys ABS although, if I sell these I'll farm them out so there are many other options including metal.  They could also be machined but the Z will be difficult to produce correctly due to the tiny radii. Any feedback is appreciated!

 

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Have you thought of using the print as a plug to make a mold and plastic cast the final piece?

I've done this with several projects that need to have a higher heat resistance than what what a typical PLA or Nylon would have. The reason I typically plastic cast is due to cost as well, I don't own a 3D printer and it can become expensive having someone else print in these exotic materials that have a higher heat resistance. It's more cost effective for me to have the print made cheaply in PLA and use it to make a mold to cast from.

 

Here are a few parts I've made using the casting process:

The material these are made from has a heat deflection temperature of 250 degrees F. I have seen some resins that are resistant to heat up to 400 degrees F as well.

 

Ash Tray Cup Holder:

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240Z Steering Wheel Horn Button:

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I apologize for a super delayed response. It's not expensive at all to plastic cast pieces like this. The molds are made from silicon and are taken from the 3d printed part. A few well placed fill and vent holes in the mold and you are good to go. If you're interested in the process there are tons of YouTube video tutorials that show how to do it from beginning to end.

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Thanks for the info lowrider!  I did end up printing the cover on a Markforged printer using their Onyx material which is chipped carbon fiber/nylon material.  It turned out pretty nice.  One day I'll get a picture.

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I have been doing a little work on the Z here and there.  I never was really happy with the sumped original fuel tank so I purchased a Zfever aluminum tank.  After finally getting the tank after 4 months of "patiently" waiting it arrived only to find the filler neck positioned incorrectly.  It was off by exactly one diameter.

 

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Due to the length of time it took to get the tank I didn't want to send it back to zfever.  So I had a local boat shop cut the filler off and reweld it in the correct position.  They ended up welding a plate over the existing hole and drilling a new hole in the correct location and welding the filler neck back on.  Sorry, didn't get a picture of the repair.  Here is one with the tank installed correctly with new straps.

 

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I also pulled the oil pan to attempt to fix an annoying leak at the back of the pan.  Internals look in order, for whatever that's worth. I'm going to reinstall it without a gasket, just using Permatex Ultra Grey, studs and flange nuts along with the stock spreader plates.  

 

 

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Edited by rossman

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Regarding the tank, I will have to say, that besides the constant delays in delivery and the incorrectly placed filler neck, the tank appears to be built well.  He told me his welder quit in the middle of the job.  So, I cut him some slack.  In the end I finally got my tank.  It's no show piece (I didn't expect it to be) but all the welds look acceptable and he did install AN fittings as I requested.  Although, one fitting looks like it was damaged and "repaired" on the sealing surface.  In hindsight, should have just had him install NPT bungs. Anyway I'm going to pressure test it with AN caps soon...before I put fuel in it.

Edited by rossman

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Seam sealed both floor pan weld joints with 3M Urethane Seam Sealer. Used a trimmed acid brush to goop on the sticky, messy, stuff.  Next up will be painting the pans with POR 15 black.  I don't care too much about how it looks as this all will be covered with carpet.

 

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Edited by rossman

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Finally installed the dash after removing it over 3 years ago to "install some new gauges." 😆 This time with a new #vintagedashes dash pad, new SpeedHut Revolution gauges (Coolant Temp, Fuel, Oil, Boost, and AFM), custom three gauge panel, and Vintage Air AC evaporator/heater blowing thru the stock vents.

 

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Edited by rossman

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This is the car as it sits today, pretty much ready to start.  All I have to do is put oil and fuel in it.

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These guys were a huge help.  That's my son Zachary on the left and his friend Colby on the right.  They got the intercooler, intercooler piping, and rear LCAs installed in no time.

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The 24" ac condenser is a tight fit but it works!

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Aluminum fuel tank and lines are installed.  I had to polish the inner flares, same as I did back in 2008 due to purchasing cheaply made stainless pipe.  I'm going to get rid of all of it because I don't want to do that again!

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Here you can see my TTT LCAs, new fuel pump mount, and barely see the TTT mustache bar.  The main reasons for the LCAs and mustache bar are for clearance to the half shaft boot.  Note to self:  Don't forget to tighten those damn LCA pivot bolts before I get all excited when the car starts!

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Back side of Wilwood parking brake.  I hated dealing with the hydraulic line lock.  It's just not a good solution for a street car.  I went thru three of them that failed due to leaks before I started looking for a better solution.

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Edited by rossman

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14 hours ago, rossman said:

All I have to do is put oil and fuel in it.

Oh, and engine coolant....must not forget that!  Also I failed to mention that all the dash wiring is connected all the electricals are working properly.  I initially had a problem when the ignition switch was in "acc," the hazard light switch would power up the car like the ignition switch was switched to "run," then back to "acc"  and then back to "run" as the flasher cycled.  Took me quite a while to figure out what the hell was going on! It turned out that I had reversed two identical stock connectors that go to the rear turn signals/fuel level sender (Y, GB, GR) and the cig lighter/antenna/wipers (LW, L, LY). 🤪

Edited by rossman
clarified my electrical problem

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