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What Wheelsize witout zg fenders?


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Understood. I make assumptions on things like the extreme majority of people running coilovers, etc. which is incorrect for me to do. Floating rotors and the like would be very subjective, as well.

 

"15p" and "6p" I gather are the US spec equivalent of +15mm and +6mm, whereas it has ALWAYS been my assumption that + offset wheels are pretty much a no-can-do at any increased width under OE wheel wells. I have operated on the assumption [albeit likely incorrect] that the fitment options for larger wheels in stock wells beagn at 0 offset and went - [negative] thereafter.

 

As you stated spot-on, it ends up being case-by-case since there are soooo many variations of how we [Hybriders] are configuring our cars. In my 'Quest For The Right Wheel' I have made too many assumptions of people's set-ups when looking at these responses to wheel-oriented threads.

 

Glad that you have shown me the light. Seriously...NO sarcasm.

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Cannot edit ?? Reverse the "assumption" sentences reference of positive and negative. I realize that I reversed them. Assumption is...that negative cannot tuck under well, we need positive, and work with spacers of various thickness to dial it in......

????

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So, I am going to bring up a post of Mr. Coffey's regarding staggered set-ups, and throw out an idea I just had as it pertains to that, for discussion here...it 'should' be relevant:

 

"For a street car a staggered setup will handle fine - you really never get to the traction limits driving on the street. For a track car a square setup handles better.

 

FYI... keep your overall tire diameter under 25" unless you're planning on relocating suspension mounting points. Too big a tire and too low a ride height and the car will handle poorly regardless of staggered or square."

__________________

John Coffey

johnc@betamotorsports.com

BetaMotorsports, LLC

 

 

So, taking that into consideration, and some of us wannabe/poser racers [me] want to fully optimize our cars just in case we get it out on a track day or two.... What if, due to wheel selection, and wanting as wide a tire as absolutely possible inside a non-flared REAR fender, we staggered the sizes AND used spacers to bring the narrower fronts out to the fender limits. This would, in theory, make the front 'track' wide [square ?], AND provide the clearance from the frame rails for full range of motion steering ? Also, accomplishing the 'fat meat' rear tire aesthetic.

 

Does that make ANY sense ? Opening for discussion..... I am laboring over this decision because I have already spent [wasted] money on wheels that I thought would fit perfectly [for MY aesthetic], and it turns out they won't [for MY look]. This has resulted in the need to buy short coilover springs [from 10" to 8"] and searching for the 'Right' wheel.

 

The hope of recouping ANY of the money spent on the NEW 10" coilover springs [now 'useless' for me] and the NEW 16x8 +0 5x114.3 wheels [now 'useless' as well] is fading quickly...and I am NOT in any position to be making financial mistake-after-mistake-after....

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we staggered the sizes AND used spacers to bring the narrower fronts out to the fender limits. This would, in theory, make the front 'track' wide [square ?], AND provide the clearance from the frame rails for full range of motion steering ? Also, accomplishing the 'fat meat' rear tire aesthetic.

 

In theory, the front track is 8mm wider than the front track to start with :-)!

 

But, from my measurements the front and rear forward spacing is basically the same, the back spacing is bigger on the rears - this allows the bigger wheels!

 

If you were going to go staggered wheels you are most likely to purchase a wheel that is the same design front to rear, if they sell the same design wheel with different widths the manufacturer also probably sells the wheels in a variety of offsets - therefore, you could simply choose an offset for the fronts that placed the wheel in whatever position you would like :-)!

 

OR You could get the same sized wheels front and back, which should basically fill out both front and rear guards in the same proportion!

 

Also, unless you go to a hugely positive offset (35p and above) the only spacers you can use are slip over the hub type spacers - basically like washers to space the wheel out - don't think these are a very good idea for driving around on year after year, you will eventually snap a wheel stud!!!

 

Also, if you want to save money on wheels - purchase MM's bolt on style wheel spacers that use a Honda 4x100 PCD, I don't know about the US, but in AUS there is massive amounts of cheaps wheels available with 35-45p offsets compared with 0-15p offsets 2nd hand, even knew!!!

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Again, thanks for the input Tony. I am five lug, first off, and I already have huge, long ARP wheels studs which would make most of those adapters difficult, at minimum to install. The issue is by getting the same sized wheels front to back, I have interference that is HIGHLY likely to occur at full cock steering. "So, go smaller" one might say. Well, then the REARS will not be filled out as desired. It 'seemed' that my previous proposal was a means to get the best of both worlds...I just wanted a 'community affirmation'....

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Thanks for that. Very helpful. May I ask, what offset ?

 

Sorry about taking so long to answer this question. The wheels are off a 2001 mustang gt. I think the offset is 30mm but my memory might be a little rusty. You also have to take in to account that i have 300zx hubs up front that push out the wheels in the front and make this combo fit. In the rear I have a small 3/8" spacer.

 

 

Also, a tire size of 245/40/17 comes in at roughly 24.7"

 

Like I said before, I have no tire rub, but I haven't been on the track with this set up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is the update on MY end....after pouring over everything that I could find, laboring over which wheel achieves my desired 'look', I pulled the trigger. I think that Tony was on to something early on with his apprent frustration over 'differences' in our cars [same models essentially]. After [indirectly] confirming what others have fit under their OE wheel wells, and using coilovers, I ended up staggering sizes.

 

I got 17x8 +35 w/ 225/45-17s in front and 17x9 +35 w/ 255/40-17s in rear. The fronts seem to clear with an 8mm spacer on the standard 10" coilover [netting a +27 in front]. The rears [PITA] have 8" coilvers, based upon my readings and communications here, to clear the tires. I am up to 17mm in 'spacers' [using washers until it is all ironed out, then I will have them made up correctly] in an effort to clear the strut tubes !!!!?! Which is a net +18.

 

That fitment not only will not clear my fender lips; but, it is quite a bit 'less' positive offset than several others seem to have gotten to fit [e.g. my 'rolemodel car' fit 17x9 +27] . So, it appears that each car has different geometries ??!! Now, I am really understanding Tony's exasperation with the variances of one person's fitment 'success' over another's. The saying YMMV is just [sadly] too true.

 

Incidentally, my BNIB Centerline Tracers are still available for anyone interested in 16x8 +0. They are NOT your [old] Centerlines....these look similar to Foose Newstalgias, and [at least I believe] would look SHARP on a clean-lined Z car. They are currently being offered [at a loss...and bought AT COST] on Craigslist locally. Will put them on eBay when car is rolling.

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this thread as I'm in need for some answers.

 

I'm in search for some wheels that would fit my 77 280z well. Largest (16 or 17) and widest possible with coilovers without flares and metal cutting. Rolling fenders would be ok.

 

After watching some vids of a beutiful japanese S30, I would like to copy him.

See:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EKuXCTq4Hc&feature=related

 

He's running Watanabe R-types right? After looking at some pics of people running 16x8 offset 0, I may conclude that he's running 16x8,5 offset -6 front and 16x9 offset -13 rear, because the rear lip is wider than front? Or could it be 16x8 0 front and 16x8,5 -6 rear?

 

Just see S30TRBO's post: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88219-for-the-guys-running-16s-and-wide-tire-help-please/page__p__840157__hl__watanabe%2016%2085__fromsearch__1entry840157

Edited by HaaJeHaa
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm still confused as to what wheels will fit under a stock suspension 240z. What are the specs for the stock wheels? That way I can plug that into the offset calculator and see if these will fit.

 

I tried fitting on some rota subzeros: 17x8 +45, but of course it hit the suspension (running stock springs). I did a rough measurement with a tape measure and it looks like I need about 1.5" to clear. The measuring was really quick just so I can get an idea.

 

Anyway, anyone running similar spec wheels? What size spacer did you use?

 

Austin and I have RS Watanabe R Type not RS-8.

 

Without flares you can run a 8.5 -6 offset. I have them all around now:

 

DSCF3806.jpg

 

DSCF3811.jpg

 

Hope this helps :2thumbs:

 

How close to the suspension are you? Also, using your 8.5 with a -6 offset plugged into the calculator

http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

it says:

Inner clearance: 45mm LESS

Outer Position: RETRACT by 57mm

 

So does that mean I would need a 45mm spacer to have the same position as yours?

Edited by Tyler
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Don't know if this info will help you at all, but I am running RB-Rs 16x8 with 225/50/16s and I believe a 7mm spacer in the rear to push it out a little more. I rub on just about any bump, even moderate ones. I'll probably get a smaller spacer in the rear, or if I ever get off my ass and put on my coilovers the problem should be solved. Have you considered modding your suspension to allow a little more meat under the fenders? Ground control coilovers can be had for not a lot of coin, a fraction compared to a set of Wats....just a thought.

 

*edit* my wheels are a +10 offset

Edited by DeLorean
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Don't know if this info will help you at all, but I am running RB-Rs 16x8 with 225/50/16s and I believe a 7mm spacer in the rear to push it out a little more. I rub on just about any bump, even moderate ones. I'll probably get a smaller spacer in the rear, or if I ever get off my ass and put on my coilovers the problem should be solved. Have you considered modding your suspension to allow a little more meat under the fenders? Ground control coilovers can be had for not a lot of coin, a fraction compared to a set of Wats....just a thought.

 

*edit* my wheels are a +10 offset

 

Thanks for the info. I have considered some ground control coilovers. Keeping my eye out for a good deal to cross my way.

 

So with that 7mm spacer, that'll bring you to a +3 offset? Also, do you know what the backspacing is on your wheels.

 

I'm guessing my subzeros may not fit. I measured the backsapce- 6".

 

What's the max backspace on a stock suspension 240z compared to one running ground controls?

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I have the Rota RBR 17x8.5 +4 with 245's front and rear with I believe 5.5" backspacing. The front frame rail edge had to be slightly (I mean slightly) notched. The rear fender lip had to be rolled however. That is in combination with GC coilovers and TTT camber plates. I will try and confirm the backspacing. I share this because I believe (and others do as well) that the 8.5" width with the 245 tire is about the widest you can go on a 240Z in the rear without changing hubs or installing flares.

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I have the Rota RBR 17x8.5 +4 with 245's front and rear with I believe 5.5" backspacing. The front frame rail edge had to be slightly (I mean slightly) notched. The rear fender lip had to be rolled however. That is in combination with GC coilovers and TTT camber plates. I will try and confirm the backspacing. I share this because I believe (and others do as well) that the 8.5" width with the 245 tire is about the widest you can go on a 240Z in the rear without changing hubs or installing flares.

 

Thank you! If you can get a chance to verify the backspacing, that would be great. I don't want to buy wheel spacers that are either too big or too narrow (Too expensive of a mistake).

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Thank you! If you can get a chance to verify the backspacing, that would be great. I don't want to buy wheel spacers that are either too big or too narrow (Too expensive of a mistake).

I got ya, no problem. I'm glad I measured, it's 4 5/8". To the outside of the wheel bead is 4 7/8". But when inquiring about backspacing, the measurement doesn't include the bead. As far as clearances, I have less than an inch from the tire(rear)to the strut housing.

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