Jump to content
HybridZ

Recommended Posts

I run 15x8 -14 in the read and 15x7.5 -7 in the front and it's literally a perfect match...the rims lips are pretty much flush with the fender.

 

Well didn't I get the short end of the stick................

 

The above pic I posted earlier shows an 8" rim with 6p offset, that gives me approximately 108mm of forward spacing on the rim and the wheel easy pokes out 10-15mm past the guard lip - really, I have 90mm before wheels will rub on the guards!!!

 

You have 115mm approximately of forward spacing and they dont rub - that isn't fair at all :-)!!!

 

25mm difference really - WTF!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i ran 225x50x15's with 7 inch wheels. front never hit, rear would hit on big bumps so I rolled the fenders a little. I could have ran the same tires on 8.5 inch wide wheels. The clearance issue was with the strut and fender at the tread.

going to a homemade coil over and hoping for 245x50x15 tires on 9 inch wheels in the rear under stock fenders. might be dreaming though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

help well im trying to buy so rims i have a 280z lowered on the eibach springs what is the widest rim i can get to clear in the front and back i want to buy the rota rb-r in 16x8 but i dont know if i will clear or in what offset because they sell them in +4 or +10 or i would like the rota rb in 16x8 help plz

thanx

Link to post
Share on other sites

Take off your wheels,

 

Grab a plumb-bob or flat bar of steel - and stick it on the inside of your fender lip,

 

Measure from your hub to the front bar dangling down from the fender lip, this will show you how much "forward-spacing" you have!

 

Then tape the same flat bar to the hub and measure back to the spring perch,

 

That will show you how much "back-spacing" you have!

 

You will want a 10mm clearance from the spring perch to the inside of the wheel, so when you get your "back-spacing" subract 10mm, this will give you have much room you have,

 

It appears that folks have had different experiences with what will actually fit, best to measure yourself!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I find this thread informative....yet I still have trouble getting my head around this. One of my 'Ultimate Role Model Cars' on this site is Clifton's. It is just so well sorted out.

He runs 275s on 17s in back with stock wells [though likely rolled]. YET, it seems based upon the posters here that it just isn't doable....unless most of you are looking at + offset wheels. He is running negative, with coilovers [as I plan].

I still get very 'anxious' [i.e. nervous] about buying wheels & tires without mocking-up. Most rims are over the net that I seek, which makes mock-up difficult.

I'd like to run 17x9 -24 [w/SMALL spacer if needed] on all four corners with 245/45-17. Based upon a PM conversation with Clifton many, MANY months ago, it should be doable.

That being said, my mistakes have been getting very expensive these days, and I don't want another 'Do Over'.....just confused, that's all.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I'd like to run 17x9 -24 [w/SMALL spacer if needed] on all four corners with 245/45-17. Based upon a PM conversation with Clifton many, MANY months ago, it should be doable.

 

This is from memory, but the width and offset of the wheels that are used to "fill-out" ZG Flares are 8.5" on front with a -4 offset and 9.5" on the rear with a -19 offset,

 

I still get very 'anxious' [i.e. nervous] about buying wheels & tires without mocking-up. Most rims are over the net that I seek, which makes mock-up difficult.

 

Not at all mate :-), find out what size the rim is and what offset (or backspacing), for example, 7" rim = 201mm (8"'s), 8" rim = 228mm (9''s), 9" rim = 254mm (10"'s) and so on,

 

Offset, -24 on a 9" rim = 254mm/2 = 127mm +/- 24mm = 103mm & 151mm,

 

As this rim has a "negative" offset, this means the centreline of the wheel is moved inwards towards to centre of the car, which pushes the wheel outwards - this increases your "forward spacing" and decreases your "backspacing",

 

Therefore, you would have 151mm of FS and 103mm of BS,

 

So you know how wide the wheel is and how much room you will need under your guards and in what proportion to fit a particular wheel - now measure your car to see if it will fit yours :-)!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Understood. I, like the original thread author am running NO flares....FWIW. On http://www.cardomain.com there is a guy "450Z" [on this site w/ different username - ??] who is running 255/40-17s on 17x9s under stock fenders [coilovers, of course]...and he runs autocross [presumably without a ton of rubbing]. This gives me hope. It is just that there is a tremendous amount of conflicting information from others' experiences.

 

Biggest issue with my BNIB Centerline Tracers is the 0 offset, and I want them to tuck [just] INSIDE the rolled lips of the fenders.

 

In retrospect, it seems as though the bulk of the folks with challenging fitment are those with negative offset wheels....which I would expect beforehand anyway [iMHO].

Link to post
Share on other sites

Understood. I, like the original thread author am running NO flares....FWIW. On www.cardomain.com there is a guy "450Z" [on this site w/ different username - ??] who is running 255/40-17s on 17x9s under stock fenders

 

That fellows is running S4 Rx7 Suspension, so with hub offset probably can run a high offset wheel and still clear his struts, which would also keep the wheels inside the guards................but still amazing that 9" rim fit under there, stuffed if I know how it was done, because there is no way that would fit under the guards of my 260z coupe!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You could always do something like this to keep the wheels under the guards?

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143035

 

2nd last post!

 

Sorry, at work so don't have access to the pics in this thread!

 

I used a set of ZG flares, bolted them to the guards and then bogged it all smooth, painted them and then made some fibreglass copies,

 

Lighten up the front of you Z to!

 

On the rears, I had a local bodyshop make me a copy from steel of the fibreglass ZG flares!

 

You would basically follow your standard ZG Flares installation, expcept you would be eventually tacking the flares in place and bogging (Bondo) the edges - could even lead wipe!

Link to post
Share on other sites
So glad that you reminded me about the RX7 conversion [before I committed to 9s]. I forgot all about that...got so caught up in the size and tires fitting [WTF??!!]

I think that I am forced to stick with 8s.......and 235 rubber. :~(

 

I think a 17x9 is absolutely doable in the rear with coilovers and rolled fender lip(like you said, that is what Clifton is running). I am running 17x8 with the stock spring perches and unrolled lips with 245/45/17 tires. The front is where I think you are more likely to run into problems with a 17x9 but it may just squeeze in there. Let me know if you want me to take any pics if that'll help at all.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have any issues at all.

 

I have 245/45/17 on all four corners. They are kumho ecsta asx in the front and sumitumo htr z III in the rear now. Different tire brands run wider than others so that should be taken into account when purchasing tires. My sumitumos are thinner overall and fit slightly better than the kumho's.

 

Here's a pic that sort of shows the fitment, and there a few more in my build thread too.

garageZ009.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Everyone seems to be comparing 240z's and 280z' in this thread. The two are different...:icon45:

 

Mine is a 260z, but built in early September 1974, so has the smaller 240z type struts - I did own a 1977 260z (from Australia, we didnt get the 280z), but the struts were 56mm, not 51mm OD and spring perches were much higher on the rears!

 

Maybe mine has so much less room because I have basically a 240z!

 

How do you figure? The fenders interchange. The track is the same [isn't it ?]

 

I am pretty sure it is supposed to be :-)

 

However, I think track is a bit of a case by case basis :-), for example, when I installed my 17x8's with a 6p offset my front track was 1434mm and rear track was 1426mm, stock (from memory) is 1356mm front and 1346mm rear - I was using floating rotors, so the added about 8mm and went from 15p to 6p offset, 8mm + 9mm x 2 = 34mm increase in track both front and back, not 78mm and 70mm that it apparently had increased in reality!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...