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Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

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Engine  running readings were enlightening. First off, the angel light runs at a whopping .15A, so roughly 2 watts. Might not seem like much, but it's also not running through any kind of lens so there's just mild diffusion and otherwise very forward facing beams. But under running condition, the halogen went up in amperage as I expected, while the LEDs went DOWN a fair amount. I expected them to stabilize, not drop so much. Anyhoo, here's the readings.


LED Low Beam = 1.48A @ 13.6 Volts = 20 Watts

Halogen Low Beam = 2.65A @ 13.6 Volts = 36 Watts

LED High Beam = 3.05A @ 13.5 Volts = 41 Watts

Halogen High Beam = 3.9A @ 13.5 Volts = 53 Watts


So there ya go, low beams are HALF the power, but far FAR more useful. Under high beam operation the halogens aren't AS obviously behind, but the LEDs cast a lot further and wider, while using considerably less power. It's less enough power that I'd consider running a LED light bar tucked under the hood lip in parallel to the high beam wiring.


And now for the pictures (because everyone loves photos). All photos were taken in manual mode and I attempted to get as close to what my eye saw as an actual output. I could have bumped these photos up/down to show detail otherwise lost, but my goal is to give some real world perspective. I want to start by showing just how bright the angel eyes are at night. Obviously their use case is daytime, so they'd better at least be decently bright.



(note my LED Interior lights are on and they light up the cabin pretty good)




Pretty close to what my eye saw




Yeah, a good bit of light for a measly 2 watts




That's just the halo/angel light. And that's about how blinding it feels when down on it's level.




And there's the low beams. It's pretty sad the halogen hardly even looks like it's on.




And that's what they look like when standing above the beam line. It was hard to get the expose right, but halogen didn't look quite that bright in person, as I could easily make out the detail of the glass texturing.




And here's what the low beams look like down on the beam's level. I was able to get the exposure closer, and you can really feel the difference here. I got the exposure low enough that it's close to what I saw, and the LED is on fire compared to the halogen.




High Beams. You can see now the halogen is registering a lot better, but it's still not competing with the LED in any reasonable fashion.




High beams standing above the beam line. You can tell the halogen is casting a lot of diffused light in all directions with the LEDs a bit more focused.


I didn't get a good in-beam picture of the high beams. So moving on.




Here's what the low beams look like from the driver's seat in context of on the road. LED's cast well enough to get solid reflection from the stop sign ahead, with lots of local light being cast within the first 50'.




I was surprised how well the halogen lights were showing in the high beam pics, because it wasn't so obvious to my naked eye. But here you can see the halogen is casting a lot of useful light finally, but the LED is keeping up just fine and casting a lot of it's bluer light (obvious on the neighbor's lawn), and still casting it's sharp edges on the left side, refusing to be bled out by the warm halogen glow (note the tone of green in the "slow children at play" sign, indicating the LEDs are reflecting off that more than the halogen).


Now I just need to measure the aim so I'm not that a-hole blinding everyone... Never been a problem before, but I guess there's a first time for everything.

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Posted (edited)

More lights:






Unlike the headlights, these definitely FEEL their price. The angle of the first mounting area is also puts the mirror a bit low for my taste, and lower than I was hoping. Would have worked much better for my liking mounted closer to a flat surface. But I really don't want to go through the effort of mounting the up at the back of the fender, though that does put them at a better angle. I'll likely keep these as-is for now, and in the future either replace them, or making a new mount for them. I'm thinking a double-ball system as common for photography gear would work well. Would just need to make a custom ball for the mirror side with the correct thread. But, by that time I'd have as much $ into the mounting as the mirrors themselves. That said, I can't find a happy medium between "ultra cheap crap" mirrors and "extremely expensive I have no life other than my motorcycle" mirrors. That said, I DO like the length, as obnoxious as it feels at first. And I like having more "look at me, I exist in this tiny car next to you tanks" lights that are easily visible.



Also, yesterday I got the second headlight installed:






Now I need to answer the question I've had rolling around my head. "weld the O2 bung with exhaust on the car, or pull the exhaust off"... Hopefully the answer will be made manifest this weekend.

Edited by Gollum

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Welp, a large step forward has been made:




And then of course it's rained all weekend, nonstop. But on the upside, my 20-30KPA 800-4500RPM cells are a lot more on the money than they used to be. :-)


And for those curious, my pre-adjusted startup AFRs on the Spartan were 13.3 and 16.6. So I guess my wiring is pretty solid! :-) (for those unaware, the spartan wideband outputs calibration voltages so you can compensate for the common ground offsets, or even potential regulated 5v offsets in the wideband controller versus ECU).


I also got some mics in for doing detonation frequency testing... Stay tuned (get it?)

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Definitely more foraging than forging. I'm not regretting having megasquirt, but I'd definitely make a different choice the second time around.


That said, today was a pretty product low key garage day. I now have my flex fuel sensor installed though my wiring isn't final (just wanted to make sure it works). Also got my new IAT bung welded on. Tomorrow I think I'm going to make a run to the parts store so I can sort out my vacuum lines a bit better, as well as maybe find some steel tube to allow me to add my new bypass valve. I also spent some time working on my accel enrichment curve and now it's much more responsive with throttle stabs. Not perfect, but I need my VE table to be more solid before I fuss much more. And in case you didn't see it elsewhere: 



I was thinking I'd just cut the whole thing out, but I don't want to grind around down there too much with the tank in place, but then I realized I can just drill out the spot welds. Might tackle that tomorrow. We'll see. I know eventually, possibly next winter, I'll be installing a fuel cell so anything I do now is just temporary until I have a final floor placement with a cell in place.



A small side note: Though goof off is primarily acetone, it's definitely FAR better at removing dynamat TAR. By a lot. It's also only $2/gal more at my local Lowes.

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