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I cant TIG


AkumaNoZeta

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I've spent at least 3 weeks straight doing nothing but trying to TIG weld. One whole week to get the corner and fillet weld down, but I've spent the next two weeks doing nothing but the butt weld and I'm not even close to getting it. The last week was spent with the teacher the whole time to try to get the butt weld, but I cant do it.

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Have you tried grinding down the butt joints so half of it are diagonal?

 

Like

 

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But more deeper on the grind.

 

If you can't get it still. Try oxy/acc welding first. Its almost~~ the same as TIG, but just a different way to apply heat.

 

BTW are welding steel or aluminum? You can weld aluminum with oxy/acc, but its a pita.

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I think maybe I'm going to fast causing me to tramp on the peddle more for more heat. It also seems no matter how much I clean the tungsten, it's never clean enough. I clean it before I tack, after I tack, and then after I go for about an inch on the weld because I see the blue and yellow colors going out in a cone. I may hold it too close while going to fast, or maybe I'm not getting down far enough to see it and I'm actually running the tungsten against the very top of the bead. I cant seem to get good control of the devil's eye either. I will play with the peddle and angle of the torch to try to get it in front of the puddle, but lose control of it after a few seconds.

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I've spent at least 3 weeks straight doing nothing but trying to TIG weld. One whole week to get the corner and fillet weld down, but I've spent the next two weeks doing nothing but the butt weld and I'm not even close to getting it. The last week was spent with the teacher the whole time to try to get the butt weld, but I cant do it.

 

 

One thing for sure is that "Can't" never did anything. First thing you have to do is change your attitude to I "CAN". Then do it!

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Ill add my little big of advice.

 

You sound like you are focusing way to much on the little details. To get a perfect weld yes everything has to be just right...but you shouldnt have trouble welding something together if your torch is a little high or now exactly straight etc. Hell even a dirty tungsten you can weld with reasonably if you had too.

 

I like to have absolute conntrol over the amperage and I set my welder for WAY over the required amount for the work im doing. That way I only have to move my pedal half way and I can easily add a little or take a little away.

 

Dont focus on the tecnique, focus on the weld. You know what a good weld is supposed to look like so as your welding pay attention to what your doing. If the weld starts to flatten out and divit get off the pedal a bit and put some filler in, if your weld starts beading up add a little more amperage.

 

Make sure your comfortable and relaxed when you weld and above all GO SLOW. You should consciously build a pool, tap the filler, and push forward.

 

If your having trouble with the tungsten check your gas make sure you have enough post flow. I run mine at about 8 seconds.

 

Hang in there though, if it was easy everybody would do it. Steel for me is the hardest to make look good. Aluminum looks awesome if you do it right there really isnt an in between like with steel. Ive been tig welding for a couple years now and I feel like I can make a decent weld, but it takes years of welding as a career to make some the welds you see...for most people at least.

 

Last but not least if you feeling like your steel butt welding isnt working very well, try a couple pieces of aluminum and then see how you feel lol!

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Have you tried simply running beads on the 1/8 plate until your confidence returns. :confused:

 

Also. Butt welding can be tough when you don't have a feel for the welding you're trying to learn, no matter the type whether it's oxy, MIG or TIG it doesn't matter. If you don't have a feel for your settings and the welder itself you wont weld no how. If I were you I'd start running beads until I was blue in the face sick of it. The air gap between the two plates can also cause trouble when your learning a Butt weld. Again, keep up with the beads on scrap plate metal and then attempt to join pieces. I work in Aerospace and the welder I work next to daily has shown me a little with regards to TIG and it's interesting stuff. Knowing a little about what you're welding material wise helps too. You can't arm yourself with enough knowledge where the metals you're working with are concerned. My co-worker is an excellent aerospace welder and I trust the little lessons he's given me. I mean they're ex-raying his welds regularly so I do trust that he's on the ball with his opinions of what is what. And his advice to me was to run beads until I knew how to do that first. And interestingly enough, it's made me a better welder with my little homeshop buzz box!

 

When I was starting out back in the day turning wrenches I asked the Journeyman I was working under what made a good mechanic? He told me that good mechanics are those who never give up on the job they've been given to repair. In the beginning that was good advice and I think it applies to all trades. If you really want to weld and be great at it, you will. Just don't give up buddy and all of a sudden, in the very near future, you'll turn a corner and bam! You'll have it!

 

Take care

T

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Also when I am butt welding I start with low amperage and get a little filler built up and then push the filler over and increase the amperage this gets the pool going without blowing the metal out. You have to keep pushing and building on the pool and not getting ahead of yourself.

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OK Lets crawl before you can walk or run. I would get rid of the foot pedal at first. It is more that a hindrance learning to TIG. Set you heat around 90 amps. With 1/8" plate set you gap around 3/32" on your beveled plate and tack with at least 1/4" tacks. I use to use my index finger to pivot off of. Most old tig welder used this technique before learning to walk the cup. You will need to find something to insulate the end of you finger as it does get hot. Do not sharpen you tungsten to a needle point and I always had my grind marks parallel to the tungsten. Needle sharp tungstens tend to brake the tip off and end up in the weld, and will bust an xray. Work you heat from side to side consuming the 3/32” bare rod. If it is getting to hot shorten you arc length, too cold lengthen you arc length.

 

If you are not using rod made for TIG you are wasting your time. TIG rod is double de-oxified.

 

I welded pipe on Nuclear Power Plants and never had a foot pedal. You have not said anything about knowing how to stick weld, it really helps to know how to do that first and controlling your heat.

 

Practice Practice Practice.

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Remove the peddle and use a constant amp/volt setting and try "scratch starting" the arc. I bet your using a high end welder that has high frequency start and other goodies that may interfere with your ability to learn. Later you can add in the peddle and high frequency start after you have mastered puddle control. The electrode will become contaminated a bit but for learning it is a trade off.

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