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How to remove shifter shaft on 700R4?

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Are you trying to replace it with the longer one? Out of a 4L60E? or are you jusr replacing the seal? To remove the shaft you first need to remove the pan. Then remove the Manual Detent Spring. This is a flat spring with one bolt holding it to the valve body. it has a roller on it that mates to the Inside detent lever. The shaft you are trying to remove passes through this part. under this spring you will see a nut it is either 9/16" or 14mm depending on year. remove this and pry the inside detent lever towards the Valve body. some models will have a manual shaft retainer this pops of with a tiny flat bladed screwdriver then you just pull the shaft out of the seal. You will want to replace this seal it did not leak before you started but it will after you remove the shaft. as for reasembly use these torque specs. Inside hex nut 23 ft lbs, Detent Spring to Valve Body 18 ft lbs,Pan to case 12 ft lbs. I hope this helps you. If you need a 4L60E manual shaft (the long one) let me know I think I have a spare floating around. Keith

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Originally posted by 383 240z:

If you need a 4L60E manual shaft (the long one) let me know I think I have a spare floating around. Keith

I'm replacing it with the longer one so I can use a late model neutral safety switch on the transmission body. Your explaination of the removal process squares with what the guy at the transmission shop told me this afternoon. It's good to have your viewpoint on things to clarify things.

 

You're very kind to offer me a shifter shaft, but I just ordered one from the Chevy dealer four hours ago! Oh well, I guess I needed the seal that comes with it anyway - this was an expensive way to get one!

 

Thanks again. Your explaination was a BIG help!

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Hi Keith, (hope you can help)

I have an issue with my 4L60e - I've just done a trans swap and am having trouble with the gearshift/cable/neutral switch fine tuning. I've never used this transmission but was told by the seller that it was good. (They hardly ever say the opposite..)

I have changed the steering column gearshift mech, the cable and the neutral switch. I have tried adjusting all different ways...cable long, med-long, med, med-short, short with the neutral switch pivoted clock-wise, counter-clock-wise, and flush positions. I can never get all the gears to line up.

 

Either I get Park but there is a long dead spot to get to reverse, and then all the gears are offset to the right (ex: Reverse will be in the D position) and I'll never get 1st gear.

Or,

I'll get R-N-D-3-2-1 fine but won't get it back into Park.

 

The manual shift assembly shaft seems to have to move a very long way to go from Reverse into Park - If I use the clock analogy, Reverse would be at 6 o'clock and Park will almost be at 9 (maybe 8:30). And the same thing in the other direction. The cable has to move the arm a long way before it goes from Park the reverse. Also, when moving the outer shift lever manually, it often skips from Park to neutral very quickly as if Reverse wasn't giving enough resistance or as if you have to pull so hard that if flies right by into Neutral...

Have you ever seen this before and if so, please tell me what I'd need to do to get this fixed.

Thanks in advance for your help.   

 

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