Jump to content
HybridZ

Weber rebuild cost


MazterDizazter

Recommended Posts

My damn L28ET swap is taking too long. I'm considering just putting the old motor back in my '73Z so I can drive it until the motor is ready. Only problem is that my old motor has triple weber 40's on it, and they desperately need a rebuild. I had a tough time finding any place that would even touch Webers in MA, and the one place I found quoted me a rough ballpark for parts/labor (worst-case scenario of all jets/venturis or whatever - I don't know carbs at all - replaced in all three) of $700. Does that sound fair? Do I have any other options? If there's a place I can ship them to be rebuilt for less I am all ears. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.racetep.com/webcarb.html#dcoe for parts,I just bought rebuild kits about $100. dcoe's are easy,Take each jet out and clean them 1 at a time with carb cleaner and compressed air no wires also the passage ways. Make sure they are open,new gaskets, check the floats,new float jets,new filters,make sure the butterfly shafts are tight.If they worked before they should work again.Clean the needle valves and seats. http://www.carburetion.com/weber/weber. htm,http://www.carburetion.com/weber/weber.htm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just redid my 45's a few months ago. Never touched a carb before in my life. Picked up a couple of books and googled the crap out of them. Really, they arent that complicated. Getting them on and off the manifold is half the battle :P

 

I used the redline rebuild kits as well and just generally took them apart and put them back together. The first one, I took apart and cleaned one piece at at time. I was pretty comfortable with them by the time I got to the third one. Completely stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt it in under 4 hours (with lots of soaking/beer time). There arent many, if any, parts on the carb that can be put in the wrong place. I guess the pump valve.... The standard parts list you see everywhere, ie. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/45dcoe.html is a good reference. A copy comes in each of the rebuilt kits, and are quite legible when soaked in solvent, hehe. The weber sticky thread is a great resource too. I read it begining to end a couple times.

 

1 had one leaky float, replaced that. And for some reason I had 1 choke that was different from the other 5; replaced that. Other than that, I replaced no parts that weren't in the rebuild kits.

 

I think it was a great experience and I am sure taking the time to learn as much as I can about them will pay off later.

 

Oh, yeah, I never did get my accelerator jets out. On all three they were seized right in there. They all work well, and certainly don't leak, I just didnt want to break them by trying to force them. I am sure if I gave them a good soak they would come out, I just didn't have the patience. Everything else was butter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's really odd. I called a place local to me called "Universal Carburetor" and the guy there said he wouldn't touch Webers; that they were a pain in the ass. Maybe the guy was just a shmuck... I'll definitely consider rebuilding them myself now, as it would be quite worthwhile to learn about how they tick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's not many moving parts in webers like other carbs,Mostly jets, 1 part at a time,Take it off clean with car cleaner and compressed air no wires or drill bits and put it back on,it's not bad at all.count the turns on the needles when you take them out,clean and put them back in,it's that easy.If they worked before they will work again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What moving parts does a Weber have less than 'other carbs'?

 

I think a Rochester 2G is about as simple a carb as you can get, and far less 'moving parts' than a Weber.

 

Ever look at the starting device on a Weber? Yeech! Gears and levers... hell Mikuini used a simple rotating disc.

 

There's not a lot to the machanics of cleaning one, tuning one properly on the other hand....that can be a lifetime of toil if you won't settle for 'good enough' at some point!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even then, tuning is mostly replacing parts that can be accessed without removing the carbs. The idle screw seems to be the only really "adjustable" part. As for the starting circuit, next time my carbs are off, I am going to look into blocking off and removing that mess altogether. I hear they are often prone to leaking when they get older.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...