Jump to content
HybridZ

240z8's '71 240z Chevy V8 Project


Recommended Posts

I did a little more with the new car. I sanded the center console lightly and did a couple coats of Rustoleum Bedliner on it and overall it came out good. When you apply it in extremely small coats it comes out great, but if you put it on like normal spray paint, it will bunch up and become like bedliner I guess. I only had one section that didn't come out the way I wanted it to but it doesn't look bad at all. Here are some pics.

 

DSCF2961.jpg

 

Here's the section that didn't come out perfect:

DSCF2962.jpg

 

And here's the texture everywhere else. It is pretty smooth and it looks good.

 

DSCF2967.jpg

 

I also threw the car on jack stands to pull the wheels. Since the tires are good, I might get them swapped to the 5 slot mags that I polished and cleaned up so I can clean up the iron cross wheels. I took a power washer to the entire car just to clean it, then I sanded down the driver's side to steel, and primered the side. I'll probably do the rest of the car during the next week or two. I found very minimal body damage. There are some very shallow dings in the fender, on top and on the sides, the wheel arches are pushed in a bit, and there is a little bondo underneath the side marker in the front. There is also a little damage right above the body line on the front of the door where there are 3 holes from body repair and there is a crease in the door like the door was opened into something skinny or got caught on the fender while it was opened or something. I found 4-6 holes from body repair right above the drip rails in the middle of the door opening on the roof. However, with the roof, the body repair person must have been really good because the roof is smooth and there isn't bondo on it because there is surface rust everywhere around the holes.

 

Here's a picture of the car now like 3-4 minutes after I primered the door:

DSCF2937.jpg

 

 

Also, there is some coating on the iron cross wheels that sorta gives it a matte or satin finish, but is coming off in most places leaving a polished surface behind; the power washer wouldn't take off the coating. Does anyone here know what the coating is? Is it normal with the wheels? And what does it take to get it off? These wheels have barely any road rash from what I remember and I think they would look good polished, or at least prettied up.

 

Thanks,

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 192
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Mini- Update time! I cleaned the inside of the car a bit more; I cleaned the seats, trim, and carpet. I found out that on each floor I'll need a 6.5"x24" patch for the rust. There the only cancerous rust is right on the drain plugs and isn't bad at all, but in between the plugs where there is a dip in the metal there is some rust on both sides that is a little bad but hasn't even gone half way through the metal, but it can hurt to replace it.

 

Also, I finished painting the car with rattle-can primer on everything except the roof and panel under the taillights.

 

As for my last mini-update, I took my diving test at 7:00 this morning and got a 92 on it. I just need to improve on how smooth I turn the wheel and where I sit in the lane, apparently I drive too close to the center line. I can get my provisional driver's license on April 8.

 

That's all for now. :D

Edited by 240z8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I told you put the V8 in the green car. Just do it, should take like 2 days once you got the engine assembled and ready. How much wiring could there be? Is it a manual choke? You need starter wires wired, that can't be very hard. A few sensors like your thermostat and you transmission sensors. I am just saying, you were saying you are going to need a car to drive, sounds like a good idea to get one of these running. Get a good set of headers, maybe you already did been a while. I just think you need to pick one, clean it up paint the pay real quick and then get the swap done. Meanwhile driving that car you can get one of the others ready and go more into it. You really don't even need to get off the steelies if you just want something to drive. I guess at least your making progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

More mini-updates. I started re-doing the wiring harness in the engine bay and got all the wires separated, but I have a question. In the JTR swap book, it says there will be about 10 wires that go to the engine, and the rest go to the lights and other stuff. Does anyone know the specific amount of wires for each year? I only came up with 8 wires to the engine total.

 

I have another question, I searched for this, but I guess I can't use the search function right, because I couldn't find anything. In the book, it says to move the fuel vapor return line from the driver side frame rail to the passenger wheel well, and from there it goes into the charcoal canister. There won't be any emissions equipment going on the car, so what do I do with the fuel vapor return line?

 

Does anyone have a link to the page with all the wiring diagrams for the s30's? I printed out the 1971 diagram and was going over it to find what some wires were going into certain places, and the wire combos weren't on that diagram. There is one blue/red wire that splits into a red/blk wire that then connects to a black wire, and a red/blk wire coming from inside the car that connects into a black wire. The two black wire that connect to the two red/blks are the same length and both look to be pulled out of a connector or something. There is also a black wire that is coming out of a connector that is split at one end. I was thinking that the three wires connected at a Y shape like many other spots in the harness, but couldn't find any combination like that on the diagram. I searched for the thread about wiring diagrams, but nothing ever comes up when I search for titles, and I wasn't going to look through 1000 threads where the phrase "wiring diagram" or something similar was said. I think I might need the 1970 wiring diagram since the car's build date is 1970.

 

Also, this morning, I got my provisional driver's license. I can finally drive by myself! I need to step up the pace and get this car running. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

could the extra two wires your missing be the battery wires :P

 

BAHAHAHAHA sounds like Justin to me. Did you think about the battery Justin? The random Y splices are factory believe it or not. The white ones go to the fusible links. Replace them with maxi fuses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Time for another mini update! :D

 

Earlier today, the suspension and steering bushings for the suspension were delivered. Thezstore.com had a sale for the kit, so it only came out to about $185 including shipping. I do have a question about the bushing kit though. It came with a note reading:

 

ATTENTION!!!!!

Installation of the urethane differential bar bushings will require modification of the original rubber bushing. You will be required to reuse the outer collar of the original rubber bushing. We suggest cutting or burning the rubber bushing out while it is still in the differential bar.The new urethane bushings will slide into the original outer collar.

 

Warning! Attempting to press out the original bushing can damage the outer sleeve that you will need to reuse.

 

Is the note talking about the mustache bar? If so, what sleeve is it talking about? Will the sleeve that I pull off of the r180 mustache bar fit into the r200 mustache bar?

 

 

 

Another little bit of information. The car is on jack stands, both the front suspension and rear suspension are off of the car, the front suspension in disassembled, and the rear suspension is about to be disassembled. The front suspension is about to be sandblasted, cleaned, and prepped for powder-coating and paint. The rear suspension will follow shortly.

 

I have a question about the rear suspension that the Chilton's manual doesn't seem to help me with. On the outside of the half-shafts, where they bolt to the back of the brake/rotor assembly (I'm not sure exactly what it is called), is there something inside the half-shaft that goes inside the assembly to keep it locked together like the front of a driveshaft, or is it just the 4 bolts and nuts that hold it together? I took the four bolts out but they wouldn't budge so I figured I'd ask before I started hitting it with stuff to break it apart. If there isn't anything holding it together besides the four bolts, I figure it's probably just 40 years of rust.

 

 

More info! Most of the rust is cut out of the floors and transmission tunnel, I just need to square up all of the cuts and replace the metal. The wiring for the engine compartment is almost finished. One side of the engine compartment is mostly sandblasted in prep for paint. The hardlines on the passenger side framerail still need to be relocated.

 

I also have some good news and bad news. The bad news is that I'm getting another distraction. The good news is that the distraction is a 73 240z with a Ford V8 already installed with a manual 5-speed. We're should be going to pick up the car this Saturday. Supposedly the engine is a 1982 5.0L Mustang engine, but we won't really know much more than that until we get the car. If we can get the car to run, it'll probably be driven until this project is running, then maybe we'll rebuild the engine to something to more than 150hp. The body seems to be totally covered in Bondo like the '73 we got out of Arizona, and it looks extremely rough. Although the exterior is nasty, its interior was complete (not 100% sure on that), all butterscotch colored just like the car this thread is about, and the seats weren't torn (again, not 100% sure, they were covered in a very think layer of dirt). The man who owns the car also said it has a hydraulic clutch from a '82 Toyota truck or something like that. Hopefully the car will run so I can have a Z that drives, because I'm getting really tired of the gas mileage in my parents old 1994 Chevy Suburban I get to drive. Let's just say the mileage isn't very pretty.... :lol:

 

I'm pretty sure that's everything I have for now. Hopefully I can get this project moving along a little faster. <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question about the rear suspension that the Chilton's manual doesn't seem to help me with. On the outside of the half-shafts, where they bolt to the back of the brake/rotor assembly (I'm not sure exactly what it is called), is there something inside the half-shaft that goes inside the assembly to keep it locked together like the front of a driveshaft, or is it just the 4 bolts and nuts that hold it together? I took the four bolts out but they wouldn't budge so I figured I'd ask before I started hitting it with stuff to break it apart. If there isn't anything holding it together besides the four bolts, I figure it's probably just 40 years of rust.

 

I just answered my own question. :D I guess I looked at the wrong diagram or something. There is definitely something on the end of the axle-shaft that goes inside the center of the rotor/brake assembly. I definitely wont be trying to break it apart lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just answered my own question. :D I guess I looked at the wrong diagram or something. There is definitely something on the end of the axle-shaft that goes inside the center of the rotor/brake assembly. I definitely wont be trying to break it apart lol.

 

Are you talking about the stub axles or the half shafts? Dude, I have completely take apart the rear suspension on both my 77 and my 72. If you have any questions send me a text, or a picture. Its about time you have a z that drives (maybe). Hell, my 240z is driving now. Oh and old? My 240sx is 1990. Gas mileage? V8 z? Speed? I think you can only pic from a few of those. =P Glad to see your finally making an update and some progress. Your z is going to be all fancy with powder coating and stuffs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the stub axles or the half shafts? Dude, I have completely take apart the rear suspension on both my 77 and my 72. If you have any questions send me a text, or a picture. Its about time you have a z that drives (maybe). Hell, my 240z is driving now. Oh and old? My 240sx is 1990. Gas mileage? V8 z? Speed? I think you can only pic from a few of those. =P Glad to see your finally making an update and some progress. Your z is going to be all fancy with powder coating and stuffs.

 

 

I'm talking about both I think. I'm not really sure.

 

70ReSusp.jpg

 

I'm not sure what exactly #6 is pointing to but I think it is pointing to the little thing on the end of #7 but I could be wrong. I need to take the differential out along with the shafts so I can get the suspension into two smaller assemblies that will fit better in the garage. I can't get the rear suspension into the garage yet because there isn't enough room between the cars to drag it up. When I refer to the Suburban being old, I meant it is a car my parents don't drive much anymore. Hell, the Suburban is as old as me. My dad has the '00 Camaro Z28 he usually drives (it has been dead for like 6 weeks now because the starter went out, battery went bad, we had to replace the crank position sensor, and overall figure out what was wrong with it. The new starter should get here soon hopefully.), my mom drives her '07 Prius, and my dad has been driving the '01 f150 mostly since the Camaro has been parked. I just meant it has been replaced as a daily driver for them. Also, anything better than 13mpg-15mpg would be nice lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck with a V8 z and better than 13-15mpg. My L28 didn't get but 17 or so on a good day I would get 20mpg. If you are talking about where there are 4 nuts on one side then four nuts and bolts on the other side. That is a pita. Get a chisel, maybe even an air one, and hammer it into the cracks there after the bolts are removed. If it leaves burs just file them down. I recommend cleaning up the centers with a wire wheel to get corrosion off then a good coating of grease to keep them from rusting to bad. The spindle pin will be the fun part. :D

 

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Were Baaaaaack!

 

Well this car is officially mine now. Justin has taken over the Ford V8 car. My plans for this is to work on installing the IMSA widebody kit this winter. And do other body work. Next spring start working on a custom interior. The primary focus will be on the custom made dash. Smack dab in the upper middle of the dash will be a mounted tablet PC, wireless, GPS, Movies and Music and a 2TB hard drive mounted somewhere in the dash. The rest of the dash and center console will flow from that.

 

As to wheels and tires I am thinking on the following.

REAR

Wheel - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSP-RS035146145N/ $379.95 15x14 -76 2 each $759.9

Tire - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-6642/ $321.90 29x15R15 2 each $643.8

 

FRONT

Wheel - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSP-RS035106135N/ $259.95 15x10 -51 2 each $519.90

Tire - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-6641/ $242.06 28x12R15 $484.12

 

 

Total = $2407.72

post-5512-038860300 1345689119_thumb.jpg

post-5512-004988900 1345689128_thumb.jpg

Edited by 240Z8_Dad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...