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240z8's '71 240z Chevy V8 Project


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I know the paint won't hold up great, but you just have to really take your time, at least 3 good coats of primer, 5 coats of regular paint and a few of the clear and you spend 50 hours plus on it and it will look good and last alright. gtg to work now

 

or you can do less coats with higher grade equipment and paint and have it come out great and not do it again in a year or two. I.E.

 

Good paint setup $500 and up

Home Walmart job $150 every year..

 

just do it right, its a Z car not a hondur (in the words of jeremy clarkson)

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or you can do less coats with higher grade equipment and paint and have it come out great and not do it again in a year or two. I.E.

 

Good paint setup $500 and up

Home Walmart job $150 every year..

 

just do it right, its a Z car not a hondur (in the words of jeremy clarkson)

 

Umm, I just don't see the point in doing a really nice paint job when My body work probably won't be done for 2 years or more. Cheap job means I can sand it down and primer and repaint it easily. A good paint job should cost around 2,000 in my eyes. For example alot of paint cost 400+ per gallon. Labor isn't cheap (although I will do it myself either way because I think paying people to do stuff I can do is stupid and yes its a downfall)

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Umm, I just don't see the point in doing a really nice paint job when My body work probably won't be done for 2 years or more. Cheap job means I can sand it down and primer and repaint it easily. A good paint job should cost around 2,000 in my eyes. For example alot of paint cost 400+ per gallon. Labor isn't cheap (although I will do it myself either way because I think paying people to do stuff I can do is stupid and yes its a downfall)

 

around 2k? dear god, I could get my car metallic flaked for that in town.

 

400 per gallon? unless your doing a serious flake candy color than it shouldn't be around that much per gallon.

 

Do all your body work, primer it and just drive it like that. You'll get more respect driving a car with primer spots showing you work on it than a shabby bubbling walmart rattle can'd car with some semi-mismatched spots.

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around 2k? dear god, I could get my car metallic flaked for that in town.

 

400 per gallon? unless your doing a serious flake candy color than it shouldn't be around that much per gallon.

 

Do all your body work, primer it and just drive it like that. You'll get more respect driving a car with primer spots showing you work on it than a shabby bubbling walmart rattle can'd car with some semi-mismatched spots.

 

HAHAHAH, I am driving a car with a crappy macco paint job that is causing rust everywhere and the drivers quarter panel showing of cancer, as well as the rocker. I really think its hard to not get more respect. I am thinking I might just rock the primer. I am talking like a good metal flake metallic purple with a proper primer job and clear coat, wet sand. The whole bit is going to cost quite a bit. Even if I do all the body work and just tell them to do a good primer and go from there it should still cost alot. If you don't spend a lot. Just after looking at House of Kolor paint its around 270 a gallon for base coat, and another 250 a gallon for your top coat, not including clear coat and primer. Paint is expensive. Yes these are metallic and candy color paints but I am just trying to make the point that a proper paint job can cost 2,000. I am not saying I do not understand where you are coming from, but I do not see a good paint job being 500 dollars. Not even if you primer the entire car and just have them spray the color and clear. Materials will cost more than 500.

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resources and knowing people in the business of cars will save you a ton of money in the long run.

 

This is true, with how much I have moved, I don't have these. On a side note, I GOT LUGS so I am going to try to put my wheels on tomorrow after school, I just need to see if work is cool with me pulling a last bay swap over so long as they arn't busy.

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This is true, with how much I have moved, I don't have these. On a side note, I GOT LUGS so I am going to try to put my wheels on tomorrow after school, I just need to see if work is cool with me pulling a last bay swap over so long as they arn't busy.

 

a job, that is something I envy very much.

 

I have moved so much in the last ten years its rediculous, three different middle schools, two different highschools, about to move to my third highschool...

 

eh we're clogging his thread.

 

Keep Us updated on your work!!! so these misleading conversations go on lol

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a job, that is something I envy very much.

 

I have moved so much in the last ten years its rediculous, three different middle schools, two different highschools, about to move to my third highschool...

 

eh we're clogging his thread.

 

Keep Us updated on your work!!! so these misleading conversations go on lol

 

Don't you feel lucky, I am at my 2nd high school THIS YEAR! and I am going to move the my 3rd here in 2 or 3 weeks. I went to 2 middle schools, 2 elementary, feel lucky =P, Job isn't really hard, just go and apply places. Honestly most places are pretty understanding about the "Gotta start somewhere" idea, ya know? It helps I know an assistant manager here at discount tire and had a friend from school already working there. Was hired the same day I took the interview before I left, they said, ok we'll give ya a shot, come in tomorrow and we will get you a drug test, took the test, day after that called, results, clean, hired. Was my BDAY! 3 days later I started working.

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a job, that is something I envy very much.

 

I have moved so much in the last ten years its rediculous, three different middle schools, two different highschools, about to move to my third highschool...

 

eh we're clogging his thread.

 

Keep Us updated on your work!!! so these misleading conversations go on lol

 

 

 

Lol, I was just about to be like, "So this is what it is like to be thread jacked.", but you interrupted your conversation for me. I guess as a tiny update, we figured out we need a gear puller to pull the gear from the crank. So we are a little backed up on progress right now.

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Don't you feel lucky, I am at my 2nd high school THIS YEAR! and I am going to move the my 3rd here in 2 or 3 weeks. I went to 2 middle schools, 2 elementary, feel lucky =P, Job isn't really hard, just go and apply places. Honestly most places are pretty understanding about the "Gotta start somewhere" idea, ya know? It helps I know an assistant manager here at discount tire and had a friend from school already working there. Was hired the same day I took the interview before I left, they said, ok we'll give ya a shot, come in tomorrow and we will get you a drug test, took the test, day after that called, results, clean, hired. Was my BDAY! 3 days later I started working.

 

haha I could be working at the chevy dealership if I had started detoxxing earlier :rolleyesg , but thats the past. yeah, I tried all the regular grocery stores but there were already full of perfectly normal adults because of the economy.

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haha I could be working at the chevy dealership if I had started detoxxing earlier :rolleyesg , but thats the past. yeah, I tried all the regular grocery stores but there were already full of perfectly normal adults because of the economy.

 

Perfectly normal adults don't bust their ass for 9 dollars an hour like most teens will. They require at least 16 and hour, yes justin, thread jacking sucks, come jack mine? I'm up for the free bump, suck your backed up, auto zone will loan them out, just go rent one.

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I know the paint won't hold up great, but you just have to really take your time, at least 3 good coats of primer, 5 coats of regular paint and a few of the clear and you spend 50 hours plus on it and it will look good and last alright. gtg to work now

 

How many cans per coat? How much per can? You're supposed to sand between coats, right?

 

Shall we say, a nice, conservative estimate of ten cans per coat, (I know it took at least 1.5 full-sized cans to do a good coat on my hood when I rattled it.) Three bucks per can. Ten coats. Ignoring any possible price increase for clear, you are at $300 in rattlecan paint (and when I rattlecan a car I get $4-6/can stuff, so for "good stuff" paint double that) Oh yes, lets not forget sandpaper to deal with after each coat.... It isn't as cheap as it seems when you're just spending $30-40 more at Wal-Mart weekend after weekend than you would be if you saved your money and got decent paint.

 

 

Getting cans of Rustoleum lacquer paint, thinning it and rolling it or spraying it on with a cheapo gun is one thing. Rattlecanning a full car is another. To me, rattlecanning a car (beyond just an isolated area) is a way of saying to the car, "Attention Car!!!! You are receiving a BARE MINIMUM of attention from Me!! Good luck, because you will Need It!!"

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How many cans per coat? How much per can? You're supposed to sand between coats, right?

 

Shall we say, a nice, conservative estimate of ten cans per coat, (I know it took at least 1.5 full-sized cans to do a good coat on my hood when I rattled it.) Three bucks per can. Ten coats. Ignoring any possible price increase for clear, you are at $300 in rattlecan paint (and when I rattlecan a car I get $4-6/can stuff, so for "good stuff" paint double that) Oh yes, lets not forget sandpaper to deal with after each coat.... It isn't as cheap as it seems when you're just spending $30-40 more at Wal-Mart weekend after weekend than you would be if you saved your money and got decent paint.

 

 

Getting cans of Rustoleum lacquer paint, thinning it and rolling it or spraying it on with a cheapo gun is one thing. Rattlecanning a full car is another. To me, rattlecanning a car (beyond just an isolated area) is a way of saying to the car, "Attention Car!!!! You are receiving a BARE MINIMUM of attention from Me!! Good luck, because you will Need It!!"

 

 

I always get this from people. Litterally, clear and everything is 1.12. If I want white, black, or flat black then its only 96 cents a can. Sandpaper isn't expensive and yes I said "do it right" which honestly rattle can paint isn't doing it right but for something that you only want to last two years I think that 300 dollars and doing it that way is better than going to macco and spending 500 for a paint job that will last 6 months.

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Well it's all in the prep. But I'm one to talk, I haven't even stripped my 280 yet. I'm going to go the $500 cheapo paint setup and see how it comes out. Either that ir if I run short on time I'll have a body shop I trust do it right, (for about 2K yeah... ) that's down the road tho, gotta get it swapped and running, but...

 

I digress, Where are you in your swap? have you begun looking at the wiring yet? from what I understand about the SBC swap is that it'll involve a little harness splicing...

 

Phar

 

Oh and yeah there's a few of us here in NM.

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Well it's all in the prep. But I'm one to talk, I haven't even stripped my 280 yet. I'm going to go the $500 cheapo paint setup and see how it comes out. Either that ir if I run short on time I'll have a body shop I trust do it right, (for about 2K yeah... ) that's down the road tho, gotta get it swapped and running, but...

 

I digress, Where are you in your swap? have you begun looking at the wiring yet? from what I understand about the SBC swap is that it'll involve a little harness splicing...

 

Phar

 

Oh and yeah there's a few of us here in NM.

 

 

 

I have a feeling that it's gonna be a long while before this damn car is on the road. I was pulling the dash earlier, and lo and behold, my wiring looks like a retarded monkey on meth went at it. There are randomly cut wires, wires pulled totally out of the connectors, and everything was tangled. It was the type of tangle like when you wrap some headphones around an mp3 player and throw it in your pocket, and a little while later they are really tangled. It was just like that, only I'm not sure how it happened. I knew there was something wrong with the with the wiring because after we first got this car, I spent a good 2 hours reconnecting wires and looking at a printout of the wiring diagram making sure everything I could find was in its right place. Then, I found some wire colors that weren't even on the printout. Even after that, the passenger headlight and turn signal wouldn't work. I swapped over the ones from '73 and those didn't work; I checked the connectors in the engine bay and that didn't work, so I just gave up on trying to figure that out. I'll probably get it fixed, just not in a very timely manner.

 

This car is getting really frustrating...

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I have a feeling that it's gonna be a long while before this damn car is on the road. I was pulling the dash earlier, and lo and behold, my wiring looks like a retarded monkey on meth went at it. There are randomly cut wires, wires pulled totally out of the connectors, and everything was tangled. It was the type of tangle like when you wrap some headphones around an mp3 player and throw it in your pocket, and a little while later they are really tangled. It was just like that, only I'm not sure how it happened. I knew there was something wrong with the with the wiring because after we first got this car, I spent a good 2 hours reconnecting wires and looking at a printout of the wiring diagram making sure everything I could find was in its right place. Then, I found some wire colors that weren't even on the printout. Even after that, the passenger headlight and turn signal wouldn't work. I swapped over the ones from '73 and those didn't work; I checked the connectors in the engine bay and that didn't work, so I just gave up on trying to figure that out. I'll probably get it fixed, just not in a very timely manner.

 

This car is getting really frustrating...

 

YAY! Welcome to the lovely world of working on cars, especially 30+ year old cars with abuse from owners over the years. Also, with the wiring I remember you talking about fully rewiring a car before. Why don't you use the blue cars harness for now? if you do a full harness swap you should be alright. I have found some crap in my car that I didn't like. Most of it has been fixed. I am just taking my radio completely out because I would rather not have such a crappy setup. I will probably be taking out the heater too because I never use it. Not even in the freezing cold, but maybe I should keep it for days if the car doesn't end up in the garage and the windows frost.

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We were going to totally rewire the '73, and its harness was cut up, pulled out, and thrown away. Do you think the harness from the 280z would work? I know the connectors are different, but are the wires different? I know it's probably a no, but it can't hurt asking.

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We were going to totally rewire the '73, and its harness was cut up, pulled out, and thrown away. Do you think the harness from the 280z would work? I know the connectors are different, but are the wires different? I know it's probably a no, but it can't hurt asking.

 

That's a yes, you will have to rewire the lights, just do it right, solder them and heat shrink them. I am sure there is more you have to rewire but there is a guy in roswell with a 240z that has a 280z harness and an l28 and everything. He said just the lights need rewired but I am not sure if he had done any other wiring splices. Just use the 240z light pigtails (from the chassis harness to the light harness) and wire them on, just take your time and make sure you use the right ones.

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yeah, the 280 harness could work. Another idea is to call Painless and see if they have a harness for a 240z. That way you wouldn't have to worry about corroded or cut wires, and you'd have all new modern fuses, and everything would be labelled all pretty. I know whe budget counts for a lot though, so it's up to you. but yeah, soldering and heat shrinking the spliced wires is the best idea if you swap. The other plan is just to figure wtf the PO did, and try to fix that so you don't have to remove the existing wiring. a good volt/continuity meter is your friend.

 

phar

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