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7M GE good deal or no?


KenshinX

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Well My dad has encountered a guy with a 87 supra non turbo with the 7MGE and a 5 speed tranny. The guy will sell everything needed from the engine, transmission, ecm,to the driveshaft and rear end for $500. My question is this a good deal? And would it be a good swap into a Z? I know of plenty of 7MGTE swaps, but not too much on the 7MGE motor. I see that it has 190-200hp but is this at the wheels or crank? Also wondering how much power is avaliable if I built the motor i.e. lots of head work etc. N/A power.

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Look up the differences between the GE and GTE. If I remember correctly, the GTE is a LOT beefier. It's my understanding that this motor is kinda like a truck motor. Low revs, high low end torque.

 

I bet it will cost you more money to get 200-250hp out of one of those then the good ol L series. Few posts have seen that even though these motors are DOHC, the heads don't really flow all that much comparatively.

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  • 1 month later...

The 7mgte is like 230ish horsepower and heavy. Im sure you could do alot of weight reduction on the motor if you dont have to worry about smog. Theres a site, I think its called 7mpower.com or something and its a bunch of MK3 motors with some kick.. nothing 2jz style but in a little Datsun.. well you know. I personally would go 1 or 2jz.

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  • 3 weeks later...

just get a gte. gte has the oil feed and return for the turbo. has oil squirters for the pistons, etc.. now if your going standalone you can just build the ge with forged stuff same as the gte and same for headwork and cams etc.. just use a -t off the oil sending unit for pressure to the turbo and weld a 10an bung in the pan for drain.

 

7mgte stock is 230hp, 245 tq through 2 cats and 2 mufflers in series. its proven a full 3in exhaust from turbo back that replaces the elbo on the tubo is good for 50hp or so. i got rid of all the extra crap off mine, egr, vsv's, egr cooler, stupid extra brackets, all the stock engine managent and went megasquirt. etc...

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I'm not going to lie - I wouldn't put a 7M in my car if it had 20,000 original miles and was free.

 

My roommate has two MKIII Supras, he threw a rod last year, just rebuilt a new 7M and he still has to worry about rod knock. I figure if you are going through the trouble of a motor swap, try to track down a turbo 2JZ.

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if he is having rodknocj issues he didnt build it right. the main prob with 7m's is engine management. go standalone and you wont have probs. look at cliftons car. he is making tons of power with a 7mgte. he actually helped me wit hthe base map for my 7mgte and sorting some issues i was having

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You got some sick cars William.

 

 

thanks. im working on them still. need to find someone that wants to buy my 40mm webers or trade me some 48's that need rebuilt for them. id prefere 48's but would prolly take a matched set of 45's also. the 40's are just too small.

 

and this 7mgte is coming along nicely. ill prolly take it the track when my friend is back from his vacation. i need a better spring for my manual boost controller and to tune the timing some more. i think i can add more up top to gain some more power.

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metal hg, arp head studs and a proper tune fixes all the issue with the 7m. you cant get a proper tune on the stock ecm with piggy backs.

 

the only reason id go 2j is to use the electronics from it. far more advanced. but since i have a standalone now, when i get tired of the 7m, ill just go 1uz-fe and turbo it. wont take much to build an adaptor to fit my t56 to it.

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the 7m's are good engines. you can make easy power with the gte's. the only downs that i can think of are it's headgasket and the head. i've rebuilt two of these engines with 6 extras on the side. the 7m engines with higher milage has problems with the water jackets on the head. they like to deteriorate. it was most likely a toyota design flaw. the lower milage ones started to show the same deterioration on the head.

 

if you haven't decided yet, i say go for it, if you can be satisfied with about 170-190whp from the non turbo 7m. assuming you have a good running 7mge, you'll be running around the low 15's to high 14's in the quarter-mile. maybe.

 

for $500, it's not a bad deal. that should save you some money to reinforce the block and turbo it. wooo hooo!!

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actually if you stick to the toyota red coolant the erosion of the water jackets isnt an issue. ive had a couple i opened up that only ever had toyots red in them. looked like brand new. some reason it seems its the green stuff corrodes the aluminum and pretty quick too. idk why. hell, i saw a car with over 100k on the origonal coolant hoses. all of them, and they were all in great shape. but again, it had only ever run the toyota red coolant.

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