Bishopsrock Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I have a November 72 (73 year model) 240z. I have installed an RB26DETT Skyline twin turbo engine and have upgraded my rear end. I have installed an R200 LSD, 260z Stub axles and 300ZX Single Turbo CV drive shafts using the Modern Motorsports companion flange adapters shown below. Once fitted my rear sway bar is firmly in contact with the CV boot as shown below on both sides of the car. I have removed the links and am having them shortened by 1 inch - we are just cutting an inch out of the middle and welding them back together. Its trial & error and so I don't know if it will work or create other problems though? Has anyone else had this problem and if you have how did you solve it??? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 You can also use a long bolt for the link. Buy several different links and go from there. I had a similar problem with a different set up and used a set of adjustable end links from Top End Performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 i think a number of people have encountered this problem and just removed the anti-sway bar completely without any adverse effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishopsrock Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Yes thanks for that DeleriousZ, but I need the bar to help control the car. I have approx 400bhp and on full boost the back end will be hit the floor and the nose will hit the sky - the car will then go all over the shop as the weight shifts around. Also, I don't fancy putting it on boost on a bend with no rear swaybar in place! So I really do feel that I need the bar in position. I do wish that Ross had made this issue clear on his website and posted a fix for it. I am going to persevere and try different lengths of links first - hey I might just get lucky. Anyway thanks for chipping in. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublexl240z Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Andy, I don't believe the sway/antiroll bar works the way you think it does. It will NOT stop the rear of the car from squatting under acceleration. It will help prevent the car from rolling in a corner( thus not allowing weight transfer to the outside wheels). Many of the z cars that are road raced use a very large front bar and no rear bar at all. If you are worried about the rear squatting, which, to a certain extent is desirable. Than a stiffer shock that will not allow the rear to squat/or slow the squat would be your best direction. Antiroll bars have no affect on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 My TT RB26 has quite a bit of go available, and I have noticed no difference in handling since I removed my rear sway bar (for the same reasons). I think your reluctance to remove it is a normal concern, but I say, give it a try if all else fails... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I cut my links, it's nt a big deal, just take th elink apart, and shorten the tubular spacer that goes int he middle of the link, I think mine had to be cut down to about .75" then just put it all back together and put the bolt in fomr the top, no welding needed, not sure what you were thinking of welding but it's as simple as shortinging the tube and inverting the bolt, if the bolt hanging too low through the lca just cut it off as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishopsrock Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thanks for all the responses and reassurance so far. I am worried about roll with power on round corners though. I drove the car both with and without the rear bar. It did seem to make a difference to squatting - I don't know why but the car seemed to go down to a lesser degree with the bar on. It also made a noticeable difference to roll on cornering. It might be personal preference but I think the bar helps with handling. Thanks for the advice - I will post the results of shortening the link soon. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I don't know why but the car seemed to go down to a lesser degree with the bar on. Probably because the anti-roll bar bound up or bottomed on the lower control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 You can switch to the rear anti-sway bar that mounts to the rear of the differential on the vertical rear suspension support struts. I know of at least one person running that anti-sway bar with the MML adapters. I find that on a street car where you are running softer springs (~225-250lb) a rear sway bar makes a big difference in handling. On a track car with 400+lb springs the car handles better without one. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishopsrock Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 Thanks Pete, I have created a street sleeper and have standard springs at present with Illumina adjustables. The idea of running a sway bar that locates on the diff is interesting and I will research this if I can't get the one that I have to fit round the new shafts. I just collected the shortened links today so I should be able to give them a try and have some news of my success or failure by next week. This is all trial and error though - we took an inch out of each link but I'm worried that its going to limit the suspension travel. Not long before I find out now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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