Dayz Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Is you distributor set at the right place...In your case I would believe it is. Next check your firing order...remember, the distributor is rotating counter-clockwise. Do you have a service manual? Distributor orientation http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140191&highlight=oil+shaft Spark Plug placement http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132795&highlight=firing+order After this, If something was wrong, try to start it. You can also take the wire off a plug, put a screwdriver where the plug should go, put it very close to any engine part, the park should be able to travel from the tip of the screwdriver and exit at the closest point of a ground...(middle of the screwdriver) Or try another plug and lean it against a ground and see if you have spark. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and your connection to the coil are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Firing order is 153624. so that is correct. I have checked multiple times that the plugs wires are on the right cylinders. Battery is charged. I tried 3 different plugs on the back cylinders = no change I laid the plugs on the valve cover and there was spark when I cranked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 So you get spark. Now, make sure you have no air leaks- Check again. Block the hoses if any that should go to the air cleaner...if any. Check again to make sure there is no leak. If this is OK, it will be a Fuel delivery problem, for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 the engine stalls when I block the hose that goes to the aircleaner from the front carb. same hose on the rear carb does nothing. I have sprayed carb cleaner around everywhere and I am pretty confident there is no leaks. A little experiment i did yesterday was: pull fuel hose to rear carb, crank the engine and see if fuel came out. It did. After cranking the bowl was dry, so I know fuel is getting sucked onto the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Can you take a picture of your carb and hoses? I don't remember hose schematic on top of my head. Every hoses can be blocked and the engine will run...You are confirming that the carb suck gas, if there is gas in the bowl, after you crank the motor there isn't any gas? Am I right? Did you do a compression test? and you are definitely sure you have spark. Problem shouldn't be to far. If you can send a pic of your hoses, it would be great, that could be the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 I just double checked and I can block the hose from the carb to the aircleaner and it will run fine. it defiantly was starting to stall when I was blocking it the other day. I'll get a pic up in 5 min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 I still have some leaks between the intake manifold and the head, so I'm gonna re-install the intake later tonight or tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Second though, should I just tighten everything more or re-install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Make sure you have no leaks...loosen the balance tube before tightening the intake bolts. re-tighten balance tube afterward. I cannot see anything wrong at this point, try putting rear carb in the front and vice-versa. That will tell you if it is carb related! Post back after...it is not easy to repair your car from here sitting in my chair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 but should I take the intake off and put it on again or just tighten it more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Jeff, If you have a new Gasket, you can but shouldn't be an issue. Try reversing the carbs, if it still works only with the front (with the rear carb) you will know both carbs are working. It it only works in the rear, then the problem is with the carb. Later...I am sure, Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 There hasn't been much progress in the last day or two(except getting a welder hehe), stupid highschool graduation is getting in the way. Hopefully after graduation today I'll be able to sneak onto the garage for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 alright, I'm gonna swap the carbs front/back. I looked in the fsm and I can't find how to disconnect the linkage so I can separate them. anybody, know a off hand how to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Jeff, You don't need to separate any linkage. Unbolt the 4 nuts on each carbs...The linkage won't work because here is a rear one and a front one. As long as the throttle spring is attached somewhere, the car won't be revving to hell. No need for the chokes. Also - you can just put gas by hand in the throat of the rear carbs and see if it fires and work that way. Don't need to put much gas, you can feed it with a little squeezing bottle. You can try this first before switching carbs. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 Carbs swapped. Verdict....... Back cylinders fired only! Time for a rebuild kit. I think I need a kit with a nozzles/jets and needles. because the jet on the bad carb is worn. So is my only option Ztherapy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Great to hear. Rebuilt kit just gives you gaskets and the "valve" not the needle nor the nozzle. You will realize that it is expensive. ...I would find a used set if I were you...I can find a rear carb only in my boxes if you are interested? I can let you know. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 From ZTherapy.com: Complete Tune Up Kit for 2 carbs (Needle & seats, SM or N54 needles, ZT Nozzles, float gaskets, gas lines, banjo seals,4 insulator gaskets, Just SU's DVD) isn't the N54 or SM Needles, needles. and the ZT Nozzles are nozzles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Not a bad price ...go for it if you want nice carbs. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 Any word on the needle, Nozzle and spring on your carb? Or were you thinking of just selling the entire carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Will check tonight. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.