Jump to content
HybridZ

Cross-country prep


Which engine?  

6 members have voted

  1. 1. Which engine?

    • l24 as-is
    • l24 rebuilt
    • l28et as-is (fresh turbo)
    • l28et rebuilt (fresh turbo)


Recommended Posts

How does the Mr. Gasket handle running dry frequently?

 

 

 

actually i put my mr. gasket fuel pump in before i cleaned the tank(the mr gasket comes with a screw on fuel filter before it and you can get replacements) and ive actually ran it dry multiple times and i had to get out with a wrench and tap on the filter until the crud unclogged but its never went out on me....

 

when i hooked mine up i used 14g wire and got one of those old universal truck headlight switches that holds a fuse because it says run it inline with a fuse and also you can cut the pump off if it does get clogged....it also doubles as a steal safe devise cause if you hide the switch and turn it off when you get out if someone steals your car they can only get so far with the gas in the float bowls and probably wont take the time to figure out whats wrong

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I say go with the L28ET!!!

 

Duh, I'm helping you put it in.

 

I think the L24 might be less problematic, but I think we can sort out any engine issues before you leave. That engine was running FINE before and shouldn't pose any real trouble. If we work hard enough we might even be able to try the Z31 ecu swap, I have the link wandering around somewhere for the how-to. I never felt like doing it myself because it didn't seem worth the headache. If I was going to do a ecu swap I wanted something at least as decent as MS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a trip from Az to Ohio when I got my 350z. Since the car was new I didn't bother with any spares or tools, But what I did do was plan my route, found any z car clubs on the way, and was able to go to several meetings.

 

Found that the various members were very cordial and, if you were haveing any problems would be able to help.

 

Just my .02.

 

I would go with the FI if you can get all the problems taken care of before leaving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would NOT try to do a rushed engine swap to make a cross country trip.

 

I have done XC trips countless times in Z-Cars (never anything newer than 76)...

 

The L26 is hard pressed to average UNDER 20mpg, no matter how hard pressed. I did Oglalla NE to Grand Rapids Michigan in 11 hours, and that included 45 minutes stuck at the IL/IN Border near Gary to pay the 30cent toll to leave the state of Illinois...

 

That leg of the trip got 19mpg.

 

Driving through Wisconsin on the return trip and keeping it under 65 the whole way through the state, I got near 27mpg.

 

L26 bone stock with Round Top SU's and a three core radiator running a 160F thermostat.

 

The 76, with EFI...I got 22mpg. Period. Less in town. Very consistent, but when I knew I was 'flat an long' there was no easy 'lean run' settting to be had.

 

The difference for a properly maintained car is moot.

 

I would NOT do a swap and then shake it down on the trip...which is what it sounds like you will be doing if a motor swap is giving you time constraints.

 

The only thing I would change would be a five speed, the L24 with a 3.36 can get some hellacious gas mileage if you keep the speed down in 5th gear.

 

As for accomodations...I slept in the Z there and back on two different occasions. It's more comfortable than you think.

 

Oh, and in ALL trips, NO TRIPLE A PLUS!

 

Who got confidence in their mechanical skills? Who wants a life of adventure. If it breaks, fix it. If it breaks so hard you need AAA Plus, you skipped something MAJOR that should NEVER have been overlooked IMO!

 

SOMETHING TO CONSIDER LONG AND HARD:

 

There is about NOTHING on a 240Z with SU's that just 'goes away' and leaves you stranded or without the ability to 'drive through' what ever you need to get it to a parts place.

The L28ET has SEVERAL electronic components that can DIE and leave you DEAD IN THE WATER, STRANDED.

 

Just something to consider if you're worried about driving that far...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with Tony. We swapped the L28ET in my 77 a few years back and I made many runs between Calgary and Bakersfield, CA (3,000 miles round trip) for work, putting 5,000+ miles on each trip. Only trouble I ever had was the heater core blowing up. My own fault for not changing it out sooner.

 

But there were all kinds of little issues to sort out during the shakedown period. Are you planning a BOV? My car had surge so bad, made it difficult to drive. What about an intercooler? If you use one, make sure you install good quality clamps so your couplers don't leak.

 

IMO you are asking for trouble swapping in the turbo engine and shortly afterward going cross country. I'm very spoiled, JimCanuck did my swap and all the little upgrades that make the car reliable (getting rid of your fusible links?), and he's very very thorough. So I have a lot of confidence in my car because of that. Without a month or two to shakedown the car, driving 3,000 miles is a big gamble. I liked the suggestion of making a list of Z clubs along the way and maybe get some of the members here who are willing to help if you break down to provide their contact info. You're rolling the dice, but, but maybe that's just my middle-aged caution kicking in...LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate you guys, you're all giving such great reasons to do both. Well, here's the current status update:

Both engines are out, and I'm sussing out the wiring, adding a proper blade-style fuse box, and adding a few relays to the major systems of the car. I figure that's a good idea no matter which engine I use.

 

2009-07-04%2011.02.06.jpg

I have a few transmissions to choose from, but they're all 4spd, not exactly the greatest for a cross-country trip. Anybody want to trade 3 4spds for a 5spd?

2009-07-04%2012.47.15.jpg

2009-07-04%2012.46.17.jpg

 

Now its time to start cleaning the engine bay, replace that bad clutch line, fix the wiring, secure the battery (in a sealed tray), drop in the ZX radiator and Camaro radiator fan, and finish making my seat rails and somehow secure my floor (no welder, just pop rivets).

2009-07-04%2012.48.46.jpg

 

I'm using a thunderbird intercooler, have a BOV in my current plans, and have a Turbonetics .55ar turbo headed my way since I don't have the t3 any more. It's externally wastegated, and I think I'm just going to do a screamer pipe to keep it simple and non-time-consuming. Any suggestions for a cheap BOV and Wastegate?

2009-07-02%2019.56.08.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would NOT try to do a rushed engine swap to make a cross country trip.

 

I have done XC trips countless times in Z-Cars (never anything newer than 76)...

 

The L26 is hard pressed to average UNDER 20mpg, no matter how hard pressed. I did Oglalla NE to Grand Rapids Michigan in 11 hours, and that included 45 minutes stuck at the IL/IN Border near Gary to pay the 30cent toll to leave the state of Illinois...

 

That leg of the trip got 19mpg.

 

Driving through Wisconsin on the return trip and keeping it under 65 the whole way through the state, I got near 27mpg.

 

L26 bone stock with Round Top SU's and a three core radiator running a 160F thermostat.

 

The 76, with EFI...I got 22mpg. Period. Less in town. Very consistent, but when I knew I was 'flat an long' there was no easy 'lean run' settting to be had.

 

The difference for a properly maintained car is moot.

 

I would NOT do a swap and then shake it down on the trip...which is what it sounds like you will be doing if a motor swap is giving you time constraints.

 

The only thing I would change would be a five speed, the L24 with a 3.36 can get some hellacious gas mileage if you keep the speed down in 5th gear.

 

As for accomodations...I slept in the Z there and back on two different occasions. It's more comfortable than you think.

 

Oh, and in ALL trips, NO TRIPLE A PLUS!

 

Who got confidence in their mechanical skills? Who wants a life of adventure. If it breaks, fix it. If it breaks so hard you need AAA Plus, you skipped something MAJOR that should NEVER have been overlooked IMO!

 

SOMETHING TO CONSIDER LONG AND HARD:

 

There is about NOTHING on a 240Z with SU's that just 'goes away' and leaves you stranded or without the ability to 'drive through' what ever you need to get it to a parts place.

The L28ET has SEVERAL electronic components that can DIE and leave you DEAD IN THE WATER, STRANDED.

 

Just something to consider if you're worried about driving that far...

 

 

sure, take the fun out of a road trip.........:icon45:

 

 

also, pop rivets holding the floors on man? come on, thats almost as dangerous if not mroe then using fiberglass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...I was originally going to just put down some plywood.

 

:shock::twak::puke:

 

have you lost your damn mind? putting someone else life at risk for the sake of less work? I should beat you upside the head for even thinking about that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you may be talking about a more in-depth floor repair than I am. I could just as easily do the drive with it just like it is, but it'd be loud and I don't want the underside of my passenger's seat to get all roughed up by rocks.

 

Here's a picture to illustrate what I mean. I was thinking lay down a sheet of steel on top, and pop rivet it with a few inches of overlap on every side unless I can get someone to weld it all together pretty-like.

 

P1010544.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you may be talking about a more in-depth floor repair than I am. I could just as easily do the drive with it just like it is, but it'd be loud and I don't want the underside of my passenger's seat to get all roughed up by rocks.

 

Here's a picture to illustrate what I mean. I was thinking lay down a sheet of steel on top, and pop rivet it with a few inches of overlap on every side unless I can get someone to weld it all together pretty-like.

 

P1010544.JPG

 

i should beat you upside the head for even thinking about it. do you realize what would happen in a crash if those rear seat mounts broke?

 

this isnt a question about what you feel is safe enough to drive, this is a question of what actually is safe enough to drive, dont second chance safety with laziness.

 

get it driving and running good and drive it to someones house who would be willing to help you out with fixing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd be surprised at the amount of noise that'll come in with pop rivets holding in a piece of a floor. I think welding it in correctly, rust sealing the floors (even if it's just a wire wheel + paint), and some cheap sound deadener is time and money well spent in the case of how much driving you're going to be doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I discovered a GREAT metal shop right down the street from me, I think I'm going to see if he can do a bunch of work for me before I go (battery tray replacement, fabricate a sealed battery box for the rear for me, fix my floors, etc). That way I'll be all safe-like for you (even though I have no co-pilot for this drive, unfortunately).

 

I just found some s12w calipers and have decided that my current brakes need to be replaced pretty badly. Anybody have a set of rear drums that aren't completely destroyed like mine are that you aren't using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jesse, i got some extra por 15 if you want it. its not much but it is enough to do the pass. floor pan once its welded in. but im out of the por15 prep/prime paint which is a must have for it to cure correctly.

 

also i knew it was a top mount, but i didnt know it was a thunderbird IC. im going to hit the yards tomorrow for other parts but i can think of half of dozen different IC's that would work better (top mount or not). ill snap some pics and email them to you. dont rule out saab ICs, i believe it would sit better as a top mount.

 

and not to be the devils advocte here but if you go with the 2.6 ill take the 2.8 off your hands... even trade you some wheels for it ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to cover some other parts of the car with por15 so I'll be buying a bunch fairly soon.

 

The thunderbird IC doesn't bother me, it's the funky mounting flanges and odd shape that bother me. It flows pretty nicely and is pretty thick, so I think it'd get the job done nicely. If I go with anything else, it'll be a nice big fmic.

 

I doubt the 2.8 is going to leave my hands, I'm starting to like it and just ordered a few hundred dollars worth of parts for it. Pics to come soon :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...