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RB20DE N/A + Turbo Timing?


Dayz

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RB Gurus,

We just installed bits and pieces from a 20DET to a N/A to make it turbo. I am a bit puzzled, what timing should I run?

 

Thanks for the info.

 

FYI, it has plenty of power to make it a nice daily driver in a Skyline R32!

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Set it to the stock timing in the FSM for the turbo application. That's what most N/A to T guys for VG30's do and they get no detonation as far as I know.

 

I've read about 1 or 2 degrees less, and just use better gasoline.

 

How did the swap go?

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Thanks Raff,

Pretty easy if you ask me. All stock parts from a DET. The only thing missing or different from both, is a vacuum on the intake that isn't present on the DE, (we had to put a T), and route the turbo coolant line to the heater hose that had a Cap on. All the holes in the block were there...(Oil, coolant, oil return,) all in all, this is what you call a bolt on swap.

 

We use both ECU (N/a and Turbo) with pretty much the same results, it works. To car started to stumble a little, we will have to figure that one out.

 

I can say it is a fun swap, plenty of power for a Daily and very very responsive...I am quite surprised that it is just a 2L. No turbo Lag in this case!!

 

It took an estimate of 5-6hours. We had to take off the AC which took a long time.

Dayz

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Finally put the timing at 15*, purrs like a kitten. Still sputters a little, might be the Catalytic converter or ??? It will go on the Dyno on Monday. We will see what she does...full mapping!! I post back the numbers.

 

Dayz

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Careless,

 

I really don't know what it can be. It started doing this the next day, after the swap. Spark plugs aren't the right ones (N/A), coil pack, maybe running rich because of retard timing...I really don't know very well RB's and their respective soft spots.

 

The sputtering is a slight miss at idle on one or 2 cylinders... I have a DET in the garage at the moment, I will try swapping coil packs...we shall see. It sounds like a coil pack that is dying, but why, right after the turbo swap.

 

Any ideas

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check the plugs firstly to make sure. If you wanna hang out on saturday if I'm done with the engine removal early (or if I'm tired out), I can bring some tools to the front of the house and we can trouble-shoot... I got a lot of electrical doohickeys.

 

are you using the stock ECU? ignitor chip? and is the coolant temperature sensor working ok?

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I had a miss issue with mine and it was the ignitor getting hot.

 

If you get the miss try cooling down the ignitor box and see what happens. I had the wires extended and relocated the ignitor to the firewall and it fixed the problem

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Just to report, The miss was spark plug and Fuel Map. We realized that the stock fuel pump isn't up to the task after 4800...running a bit lean/not enough fuel to keep the boost up. The Dyno session was a blast and the tuner was quite a nice and knowledgeable guy. We ended up with 210 rwhp, at 4800...the tuner believes that with added fuel, we will be around the 240+ mark. Not bad for a fully stock RB20NA-T, where just the DET parts were used (intercooler, manifold, downpipe, turbo, as well as all the lines. Nissan made the Block all the same and included oil and water outlets on the NA version.

 

Dayz

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