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Rod in NC

'retaining straps' on slave cylinder?

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1974 260Z with 350 sbc and t5 5-speed....

 

Ok, I'm about ready to take out my 3/4" bore Tilton master cylinder and buy an 7/8" bore one, but wanted to run this past everybody first. With the system bled, I get about 3/8" stroke on the camaro slave piston when the clutch petal is fully depressed. Clutch does not engage, and it appears that the 'retaining' straps on the slave cylinder won't stretch any further.

 

If I upgrade to a 7/8" bore master cylinder, I should get some more stroke out of the slave cylinder piston, but has anybody had an issue with the 'retaining' straps on the slave cylinder piston actually restricting the piston's stroke?

 

I don't want to take out the pedal stop or cut the retaining straps to potentially get the clutch to engage. Any input before I go ahead and buy the 7/8" bore?

 

On the other posts it appears the 15/16" bore master is too stiff. Thanks for any input. -Rod

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further info....with the master cylinder bleeder cracked open, I can depress the slave cylinder piston a good 3/4" back into the cylinder. Does anyone have the actual overall stroke of the camaro slave cylinder? It appears that when I then release the slave cylinder piston back against the arm coming out of the transmission, there isn't very much stroke left, even if I did get a bigger master cylinder. Could someone get a dimension for me from the tip of their release arm to the front surface of the flange that the slave cylinder mounts to? Thanks. -Rod

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JT1, thanks for the feedback. The slave is mounted in the 'what I think is correct' position (mounted to the forward side of the flange on the transmission. It is a plastic slave cylinder, with molded in ribs that would not let me mount it on the back side of the flange. I am going to try and put some washers between the rod and the release arm, and keep adding washers until I determine how much more stroke is needed to engage the clutch. While under the car, I removed the boot from the slave cylinder. It looks like I have about another 1/2" of travel in that cylinder after the clutch pedal is all the way depressed. It sure looks like the retaining straps on the slave rod are restricting its full travel, but I am not going to cut those at it appears they also keep the rod 'centered' during travel. I may get creative tomorrow and see if I can mount the cylinder on the back side of the transmission flange if adding washers is successful.

 

Thanks for the offer on the 7/8" master swap. I still want to go to the 7/8" bore, because the 3/4" bore I have does seem a bit soft.

 

I've attached a PDF pic of the slave cylinder in the normal state. Note that there is not much play left in the retaining straps. -Rod

100_2792.pdf

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I may be wrong but I believe the straps are there to facilitate installation of the slave. In normal operation they will be disconected or the ends will have pulled loose from the notch they are in. They are not there to limit travel

 

John(Mongo)

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Well, I removed the straps, and really didn't gain much additional stroke at the slave cylinder (still about 7/16" stroke). It still looks like I have about another 3/4" stroke available in the slave cylinder, so I am hoping that upgrading to the 7/8" bore master cylinder will get me the extra travel at the slave that I need.

 

I did some more calculating and with the 3/4" bore and 1.1" stroke of the master cylinder...I should see about 5/8" stroke on the 1" bore slave. With the 7/8" bore I should see about another 1/4" stroke. I also need to make sure I am getting full travel out of my master cylinder as well.

 

thanks. -Rod

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Rod

 

I recently did another 350 SBC T5 combo. I used the Tilton 7/8" MC and a Napa brand Camaro slave. This is my second SBC T5 swap into a 240Z and the clutch was perfect in both cars. Bleeding and push rod adjustment are the keys to getting it to work just right. Here is what I did:

 

Threaded the 240Z clutch fork to fit the Tilton MC per JTR.

 

To bleed the MC just open the bleed screw on the slave enough to get good flow and let the fluid ooze out over about 15 or 20 minutes with a pan under the slave. Be patient. As the MC gets low add more fluid. Don't pump the MC. Make sure that the hose going to the slave has no bends that can trap air. The hose should be vertical.

 

Close the slave bleed screw.

 

Try the clutch. On the second pump my clutch came alive. If not repeat the drip method.

 

Once you have a firm pedal, adjust the push rod under the dash to get optimum piston travel. I adjusted the rod out so there is about a 3/8" of thread showing. Don't over adjust it or it will bottom out the piston in the MC.

 

There is also an adjustable rubber stop for the clutch pedal arm as it swings back to the resting position. You may need to adjust the rubber stop to get full return travel for the piston.

 

 

 

Miles

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