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Phlebmaster's 1972 C20 Evolution***56k- NO WAY!


Phlebmaster

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Ok, after noticing that I may have a cracked block in the lifter valley I did some research on how to repair it or what to do. The consensus was to replace the block. :agree:

 

I just picked up a short block with a code of: T0823CRX and casting of: 3970014, 2 bolt main. The block is dirty, but not all rusted out like the picture seem to make it look. There is also no ridge on the cylinder walls!! It was stored in a temp controlled shop. My camera sucks and it was raining tonight. :(

 

With a date matched set of heads date code: C 19 4 and casting: 8795896.

 

60 CC 1.72 intake 1.50 exhaust

 

Now I will just rebuild the short block and swap it into the truck, then figure out what can or cannot be done with my high nickel short block after I pull it.

 

Here are the pictures of my goodies......

 

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I noticed the pistons are weird looking...they have a stamped notch or hole in them??

 

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I started the tear down of my new block tonight. I documented each step so this will hopefully be helpful to the next guy.

 

I also picked up 2 sets of 350 heads and will install them on the new block rather than the 305 heads I am running now. I now have 4 sets of heads, the 305 heads in my truck now, the 896 power pack corvette heads, a set of cracked 487 heads,(good for parts), and a rebuilt set of 624 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves. :)

 

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Here is a bad picture of the crack that runs from the exhaust valve...

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Here are the power pack heads...

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Here are the rebuilt 624 heads that I will use on the new block.

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Here are the pics of the 350 tear down......And so it begins... lol

 

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Dished 4 valve relief pistons...meh

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This looks as it should for an engine that sat for a long time. The stuff is only surface and wiped off easily.

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Main bearings are not too bad

 

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Got everything marked and lined up....

 

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I even remembered to mark the main caps before removing them.

 

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Edited by Phlebmaster
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Progress!!

 

Honed the cylinders and degreased the block then painted it. I will rent the cam bearing tool and do some research on how to use it. I also did some block modification based on my research to aid the oil return process and oil flow efficiency from the pump.

 

Here are the obligatory pics......

 

These are required texts for this project...thanks Paul!

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Put a set of junk heads on so I can protect the cylinders

 

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Opened up the oil return holes in the block.

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It did not take much to open both sides up.

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Here is the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts...I opened the pick-up tube port up and smoothed out the oil path.

 

Before...

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After...

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I also painted the lifter valley...why you ask? Well from what I read it benefits the oil return by decreasing surface tension and allowing the oil to return to the pan much faster. It also looks pretty. I used high temp engine enamel so don't worry about that.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

The block is all preped and ready for the kit. I cleaned all of the paint from the mating surfaces and picked up a better carburetor. :)

 

I traded a set of heads for an Edelbrock performer intake and 625 CFM Edelbrock carburetor. This will replace my 500 CFM carb I am running now.

 

Here are the obligatory pictures....lol

 

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Here are the 350 heads I will be using...

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I can't wait to get this thing rumbling!!

 

10wk780.jpg

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I picked up an old school LT1 intake today!! The engine is getting close to being ready. I test fitted the HEI because I had an idea that there might be clearance issues, and there are. I don't know if I will be able to shim the distributor the 1/4" it needs to clear the top of the rear runner.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to get rid of the HEI because I would rather use my new intake. So I traded it....for a almost brand new set of 350 heads that were run an a rock crawler with a 490 lift cam. These heads are set up for a large cam which is good since I have a fairly large one.

 

Here are the GM Goodwrench valve covers, I am going to use them. :)

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I decided to paint them....even though they did not need it.

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Painted the valve covers too. lol

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I got a reground crankshaft too. Mine old one was beyond just throwing a new set of bearings and running it. I guess it is better to do it right the first time.

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Last but not least...I chased all of the threads on my new block and heads. It is just a good idea

 

I can't wait to get this beast up and running!! :)

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I picked up the re-ring kit with new mains today from Napa and $134.00 later I have my engine ready to go!

 

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I really like my new intake!!

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Got the crank set in.....

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Pistons layed out in order....

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Lots of assy lube!!....everywhere hehehe

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It took some time for me to get the rings on

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I checked the gap.

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Yay bearings!!

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It was finally looking like an engine again.

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I put the timing gears in and verified the timing was set where it needs to be to get the engine started.

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Speaking of dog bones...I had a little helper. :-)

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I adjusted the valves according to my Chiltons manual.

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Now I just need to get my old engone out and put the finishing touches on this beast so I can get it into my truck.

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You gaped the rings for nitrous right?

 

Hahaha....yeah, I looks like it but the camera was at an angle.

 

I pulled my old engine out today. My daughter was a BIG helper!! We are fortunate enough to be able to work in a shop of a friend rather than out side in the cold.

 

There she is, just waiting to rumble. You can also see my selection of lubricants.

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And so it begins......

 

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Cheyanne is my helper. She says since the truck has her name on it that it belongs to her. hahahaha

 

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I am making a pile in some sort of organization so I remember what goes where.

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Ready to pull the old one out...

 

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Now I will clean this up and paint it.

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I am soooo close to installing this engine. I may have it in the truck tomorrow evening and I will have it running by Saturday for sure. I put on another HEI I managed to get my hands on and I have the wire set from the ignition 12 volt source.

 

Here she is again!!

 

10ppy4j.jpg

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I finished the install tonight. All I need to do now is put coolant into the radiator and start her up. I will do that on Saturday and have a neat swap video to share.

 

Here are the obligatory pics. :D

 

My helper was excited to get started...

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I made sure that torque converter thing was put in all the way...

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Got it in, just getting everything lined up...

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Just to prove that I actually did some work. lol

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I am with Mag, if you were doing any of the work, your hands would have been too greasy to take the photos. Plus the one staged photo of you your hands are perfectly clean. I know this is a clean engine, but I know I can get greasy hands from researching an engine build.

 

Come on mate, you have to give credit where credit is due, your daughter did all the work and you were the helper right.

 

Seriously though mate, it is looking good. Will look even better when it gets transplanted back into a s30 chassis. Also, that car is going to turn quite a few heads when you open the bonnet. No one will be expecting such a clean looking engine in that truck.

Edited by garvice
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Hey, running the cherry picker is serious business and a position to be held with the utmost respect, like county workers and their 'people alignment poles' that keep them upright while on the job. :P

 

Looks good Aaron! If you end up needing a high torque mini starter let me know. It is free-99 but needs a set of gears.

 

Cheers

Ryan~

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Hey, running the cherry picker is serious business and a position to be held with the utmost respect, like county workers and their 'people alignment poles' that keep them upright while on the job. :P

 

Looks good Aaron! If you end up needing a high torque mini starter let me know. It is free-99 but needs a set of gears.

 

Cheers

Ryan~

 

Thank you. :) I will let you know.

 

Today is the day!! I will make a video of the start up and then combine pictures of the whole process in a youtube video. My daughter did a bunch of work on this project and I am very proud of her.....and myself for that matter. This was my first bare block build.

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