Jump to content
HybridZ

Rebuilding engine, will I be disappointed?


BluDestiny

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

 

My winter project is to put a L28 flat-top with a E88 head into my 260.

I'm going to be getting a lot of machine work done to the head and the block needs some love too since their is rust(it still feels smooth though) in the cylinders.

 

Anyway the plan for the block is:

New rod bearings

New journal bearings

New piston rings

New timing kit

ARP head studs

ARP rod bolts

Turbo oil pump(since the short block didnt come with an oil pump)

new water pump ( didn't come with that either)

New gaskets(oil pan, timing cover, waterpump

 

possibly a hone and a jet-tank to clean it off. plus assembly at the shop

 

For the head:

port/polish

port matching

larger valves

hardened seats

Isky stage III cam

Isky springs

+lashpads, rockers...whatever else i need

 

I'm going to be running Triple webber DCOE 40's and a 6-1 ex headers.

 

Is their anything I'm missing that should be replaced? and should I have the block pressure tested and the crank balanced?

 

Also should I upgrade the clutch/flywheel while it's out?

I was thinking a lightened turbo flywheel and a stage 2 Zoom clutch

 

Should be getting a little more kick outta this engine compared to the stock L26.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like you have all the bases covered. Pressure testing the block would probably be a waste of time/money unless you suspect that it's really been traumatized in the past. As long as you are using the same pistons, rods, and crank, you shouldn't need to rebalance anything.I run a lightened turbo flywheel with a stock Exedy clutch and I don't see any reason for you to run anything more expensive than that with your setup. Have fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a similar setup in my 260 and i'm happy with it. It has the triple 40's, cam and such. I plan to upgrade the clutch/flywheel and do some more extensive head work in the future. For street use it's fairly fast. I just plan to take one of my spare heads and do a bunch of work on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys. I've been assembling these parts for about 4 months and I'm finally going to have some free time and spare money to drop all the parts off.

 

I'll let you guys know the results. I'm trying to find a place to dyno my car for before and after results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I did forget something, although I'm not sure it will be so much of a problem.

 

Will i be able to run the stock 50am alternator? and the same goes for the distrubuter.

 

If i can't run the alternater I can do the 60amp upgrade, and if I can't run the distributor I'll probably try the GM HEI upgrade.

 

Any nay-sayers? I would like to run the stock stuff though since it will save me some money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your existing alternator and distributor will bolt right on to your new motor. There's no problem with using your stock alternator but if I were you I would use a more modern electronic distributor rather than a stock 260 dizzy which has points.There are several different ways to easily accomplish this. Pertronix makes an upgrade kit that replaces the points with solid-state parts.Or,you can use an electronic distributor from any later l-6 motor (from 76 on). These dizzies are used with a high voltage coil and produce a much more powerful spark than the stock 260, even if you use a pertronix. Early electronic dizzies had the ignition module separate from the dizzy (mounted on the firewall) while later models had the module attached directly to the side of the dizzy.The easiest upgrade is to use one of these later dizzies; you also need to use a matching coil, and matching plugs and gaps.If you can find a good condition dizzy (no slop or side play in the shaft, and the advance mechanism is working smoothly) then use it. The modules are getting hard to find and if your dizzy doesn't have one you can substitute a GM module; this is a substitute, not an upgrade.It will work with either the early or late electronic dizzies.Note that most people using triple carbs do not use the vacuum advance mechanism, although the mechanical advance is still used.

Read this article. It is written for the l-4-Datsun 510 but it works exactly the same with l-6 motors.

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44s would be better for power and performance.

 

I would, but the 40's only cost me $500. I can't find a set of 44's within reasonable price, and to upgrade would cost more than I paid for the webers anyway.

 

Unless anyone wants to trade Mikuni 44's for my weber 40's with some cash on top I'm pretty much stuck with the webers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...