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intake manifold clean up - info

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ok yes i tried searching but got misc. info regarding intakes like types, set ups and throttle bodys to use. i know there is a thread here, can some one shoot me a link, i want to finally clean up the intake and dont want to trouble shoot it till i get it right (as far as taking off non-important stuff).

 

 

on a side note, i thought it was a sticky o well. please dont beat me with the search stick, either it has been removed or i dont have the right key words to use. i tried intake, intake clean up, intake manifold, intake manifold clean up, and so on.

 

thanks in advace!

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ok yes i tried searching but got misc. info regarding intakes like types, set ups and throttle bodys to use. i know there is a thread here, can some one shoot me a link, i want to finally clean up the intake and dont want to trouble shoot it till i get it right (as far as taking off non-important stuff).

 

 

on a side note, i thought it was a sticky o well. please dont beat me with the search stick, either it has been removed or i dont have the right key words to use. i tried intake, intake clean up, intake manifold, intake manifold clean up, and so on.

 

thanks in advace!

 

I have been having troubles finding sticky's and there are tons of dead sticky's :evil:

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There is sooooo much info here that searching is an art. I've spent more hours than I'd care to admit reading and searching on various topics. There are a fair amount of repeated questions but for every repeated question there are usually three or four space filling replies about using the search function. I've been looking for info on this topic as well - hopefully someone has the magic link. Oh and thanks for asking the question so the furry of the search stick is directed at you instead ;P

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Here's one:

 

http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19937

 

You can remove all of the following, and the car will still run, but with various diminished functionality. If you have smog checks you can't do any of it, and technically you're not supposed to remove any of it anyway.

 

Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit.

EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit.

Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit.

TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues.

AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit.

Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit.

PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit.

BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit.

Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit.

Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body.

Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit.

 

When you're done, you should have 3 vacuum lines from the intake - FPR, dizzy vac advance, and brake booster. There's really nothing to be gained, except a worse-running engine until it warms up, and then a smellier one.

 

That being said, here's mine - removed a/c, cruise, all of the above, and made a new EFI harness, custom plug wires and electric fan:

BeforeandAfter_thumb.jpg

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Here's one:

 

http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19937

 

You can remove all of the following, and the car will still run, but with various diminished functionality. If you have smog checks you can't do any of it, and technically you're not supposed to remove any of it anyway.

 

Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit.

EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit.

Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit.

TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues.

AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit.

Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit.

PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit.

BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit.

Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit.

Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body.

Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit.

 

When you're done, you should have 3 vacuum lines from the intake - FPR, dizzy vac advance, and brake booster. There's really nothing to be gained, except a worse-running engine until it warms up, and then a smellier one.

That being said, here's mine - removed a/c, cruise, all of the above, and made a new EFI harness, custom plug wires and electric fan:

 

But it looks better :mrgreen:

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Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit.

EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit.

Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit.

TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues.

AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit.

Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit.

PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit.

BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit.

Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit.

Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body.

Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit.

 

Nice list. Just keep in mind, while the list suggests "no performance benefit" there may be a performance detriment, depending on your idea of performance.

 

Defeating a properly functioning canister may cause your car to pollute more while the engine is OFF than most new cars pollute driving down the highway. Defeating a properly functioning PCV system may reduce the lifespan of your engine. Defeating a properly functioning EGR system may increase combustion temps under cruise conditions. Etc, etc, etc.

 

The point is, if you're going to remove that stuff, it would seem prudent to understand it's purpose before doing so.

 

Remember this forum is not a substitute for the FSM

 

 

:cheers:

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Nice list. Just keep in mind, while the list suggests "no performance benefit" there may be a performance detriment, depending on your idea of performance.

 

Defeating a properly functioning canister may cause your car to pollute more while the engine is OFF than most new cars pollute driving down the highway. Defeating a properly functioning PCV system may reduce the lifespan of your engine. Defeating a properly functioning EGR system may increase combustion temps under cruise conditions. Etc, etc, etc.

 

The point is, if you're going to remove that stuff, it would seem prudent to understand it's purpose before doing so.

 

Yup, which is why I don't really want to post a step-by-step guide here. All the info about what everything is, what it does, and how to remove it, is in the FSM and the Haynes manual. If you're going to do this, you should know exactly what you are removing, what the drawbacks are going to be, and what other systems are affected. You shouldn't just follow a guide that says cut here, snip here, plug here.

 

The only benefit of any of this is an engine compartment that you can sit and stare at with a beer in your hand. The car pollutes like an SOB and runs crappy until it warms up. It does NOT accelerate any faster or have more peak horsepower or torque.

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The only benefit of any of this is an engine compartment that you can sit and stare at with a beer in your hand. The car pollutes like an SOB and runs crappy until it warms up. It does NOT accelerate any faster or have more peak horsepower or torque.

 

I shaved one of my 75 non-EGR manis and didn't reinstall an IAC or hook one up with MS, so my car is a bit rough at start up in the cold.

 

I guess it depends on where you live though, when I was in Baton Rouge it never really was an issue.

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I've cleaned up my intake and got rid of a lot of bungs and protrusions among other things.

Also "cleaned" up the inside of the intake, by cutting the plenum in half and then weld it together whilest widening it a 1/2 inch.

Look here for picture's:

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38685

http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38697

 

The car is slightly "nervous" from start-up and for a couple of minutes, but then runs really well.

I never drive it on the winter though!

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you won't smell gas, or blow by if you block off the hoses, and install a catch can..... just a thought.. I saw the "smell of gas" and was like woaw.... that sounds like you made a fire hazard! lol.... go to a parts store and buy a vaccumm block off kit and block those hoses....

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In my opinion it is easier to hide things and reroute things than it is to remove them entirely.

 

OP, I see you're in California. Unless you have a '75 or before car removing emissions devices can come back and haunt you when it comes time to Smog Check your car. That is unless you have a friend who is helping you pass.

 

If not you are at the mercy of the Smog Check Technicians and guess what, they have no mercy, they want your money. Anyway here is my cleaned up engine bay.

 

 

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In my opinion it is easier to hide things and reroute things than it is to remove them entirely.

 

OP, I see you're in California. Unless you have a '75 or before car removing emissions devices can come back and haunt you when it comes time to Smog Check your car. That is unless you have a friend who is helping you pass.

 

If not you are at the mercy of the Smog Check Technicians and guess what, they have no mercy, they want your money. Anyway here is my cleaned up engine bay.

 

[ATTACH]18974[/ATTACH]

 

 

Could not agree more.

 

Just went through SMOG failure in CA with my 1980 ZX and it was painful ($$). I did all the work/tests myself, but had to bring it back twice after failing to finally pass (with flying colors).

 

You don't want to mess with the EFI system if you have to smog it (read: younger than 1975 models).

 

If you want to mess with your Z's engine and live in CA, get something old enough ;)

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