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1977 280z Daily Driven Project


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Oh, I haven't done it yet, I don't mean take it all the way out for welding (shaving) the rear holes up. I won't go all bondo or glass, that's ghetto, I like to have metal on my cars. lol

 

 

I got it now.

I had to drop my gas tank to get to some of the bolts on the passanger bumper shock in order to remove it. I agree if you're going to shave the holes in the rear do it the right way with sheet metal that's how I did mine. Good luck

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Ok guys. I drove my car as much as I could this week and my tank is just about half empty with the way I drove. I only have a little over 90 miles so I am still most likely over half tank. Any ideas on if I could drop it enough with that in it to get the bumper shock out or am I going to be pushing it?

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A gallon of gas weighs about 6 pounds. Doesn't your tank have a drain plug? Mine '77 did.

 

Ok guys. I drove my car as much as I could this week and my tank is just about half empty with the way I drove. I only have a little over 90 miles so I am still most likely over half tank. Any ideas on if I could drop it enough with that in it to get the bumper shock out or am I going to be pushing it?
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I certainly would. That tank is not the easiest thing to balance. You shouldn't have to move it too much to get at the bumper bolts. Keep an eye on the fuel lines so they don't get stressed.

 

YAY! I got it out, One fuel line was a little tricky but I didn't drain any gas I just pushed the tank more to the side and wiggled around and got it out. It was a pain but in the end it was worth it. I also pin pointed my light issue today. I was messing with some wires earlier and realized my lights had stopped again. Went back, wiggled the same wires and they work again. Looks like I am going to be de-looming that entire area and replacing all the wire with something a little bigger and newer. I would rather use larger gauge because I put the zxt alternator on there and it should be stronger that way I can resist having a short. I also cleaned up the wiring where I took out the external voltage regulator and did the fusible link swap. I just ran out of tape to get it all back in a loom.

 

Picks with be up asap for some reason image shack is being dumb.

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Now to weld those holes up

 

Buy me a welder? haha if you cant tell, the passenger one had rusted on the bottom and apparenty whatever previous owner that painted the car thinks that silicone and metal repairs rust. If you don't understand what I mean, he used silicone to put metal over rust, and he also tried to use silicone to cover the entire drivers side floor board hole, which made it worse. Basically the cracks on the front valance are siliconed shut as well. Meaning when, not if but when, I go to put an aftermarket air dam on it its just going to be more and more trouble and I am going to have to go thru and clean all the SILICONE! off the car. Since when did this become a method of dent/crack filling? Why would anybody use silicone?

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It's good to see you doing stuff to your car. Makes me want to go do stuff to mine, but it's 2 AM so that's gonna have to wait. Just wondering, why are you moving?

 

Long story. Not maybe not Mississippi anymore. My mom is looking for another job. She HATES the job she has now, so she is basically trying to find a good one. She got an offer, but got a better one right after. So what if its 2am, that's what its about, z love, lol. I just decided that instead of going with a 280z air dam I should get a 240z air dam and do the signal conversion. and then get the 240z bumpers. Just a random thought. Oh and I still want that hood latch, I just have other things I need to spend my limited $$ on right now. Such as maybe a welder. I got some rust spots to fix up, and I keep finding more, not a lot more, just little spots. But nothing really horrible yet (hope for me guys). You should hurry and get your car running and down to abq before the 6th for the SQC dyno day/BBQ =P I plan to take the 280z. Will be a blast to put down my ~120hp (rated 170 stock right? adjust for 30 years wear and my cheap gas habits and I think you should have 120, I think the 77 l28 was 170ish.)

Oh yea Justin, want any interior peices? haha, wait crap, you have a 240z. I guess I will take pics and post up everything I have for sale. Anybody up for a stock 280z air box? I have 2 of them... Tail light cover panels, dome light holder panel thingy, quarter window panels... I have those all in black and broke 1 set of each and for the right price I will even take off my door panels and sell them (brown and in amazing shape) The brown quarter window panels have the speaker holes in them and I can get the matching panel below it off. Also have the strut covers in both black and brown. I got to much junk and not enough money.

Edited by NOTSUREWHATTOPUT
Because I'm retarded
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Ok guys, I figured out what was wrong thanks to two80zforme. I did the same thing he told me last time and this time it worked, all my lights started working and my door chime came on, I am not sure why the light switch affect the door chime and my radio and stuff but It seems I need a new light switch. At first the way I had done it made them all come on and stay on, key out switch off no matter what. I got it where I can just splice 2 for now and it will work only when I turn the switch on.

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I am going to make a DIY on why your lights mess up as mine did and how to fix them if they do mess up. Of course it will be different for you 240 and 260z owners I believe since I have a 280z and the wiring would be different. Only problem is my soldering iron broke so I cant solder the wire like I wanted to.

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lol yeah, go for it. The reason why the door chime and what not do it is because they are all interconnected on that one relay, so when you hook them together it makes a bigger load for the one relay, but if you did the link swap you should be fine.

 

Yea, I posted up the DIY in the FAQ section. Not sure if it got declined of if the admins/mods are just taking a while and discussing or what. I figured since I couldn't search it. You said you rewired it right? I am just soldering a jumper in.

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Hey guys, Just a small update. I basically stripped the entire rear interior all I have left are the "Leathers" on the strut towers. I was wondering what a Brand New (unused) space saver spare, canned air from 1977, a tool kit with unused lugs and one of the wheel chocks still in the PACKAGE! might be worth. Considering selling it, it worries me not having a spare though, I work at discount tire and that would be embarrassing to get a flat and get stranded with no spare or something. The rear seems fairly clean, looking closer at the floor board rust actually makes me feel a little better, seems to be withing my grasp of fixing with just a welder and some sheet metal. I took one of the speakers out because they were mounted above the "weed compartment" and one was broken anyways. I just stuck the other one inside the "weed compartment" with the magnet stuck for now just so I have a radio. trying to decide if I want to take it out or not. I want to take the entire carpet out but that wont happen until the floorboards are fixed. I also learned something, it has at least 2 patches with the rivet deal and then they used what seems to be undercoating or tar or some sort to seal them. That's why there is a hole on the drivers side where its at (can see rivets). But there seems to be another one on the drivers side panel that they actually did a decent ghetto job with. It it sealed but you can see the box where they cut it out. I peaked under the carpet and saw a little surface rust, hopefully they are salvageable boards, problem with buying these cars, if they have carpet the owner normally doesn't want you tearing it out.

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So guys, I am a little ticked. I pulled the drivers side carpet. Found some more rust, stuff you cant see under the car partially because the rail covered it (rail seems fine will know more after I get farther into repairing it) and mostly because some jagoff decided to just use like 2 or 3 spot welds, like nice welds, just an inch long and then random screws and bolts and then pop rivets to put a patch on, then seal it up with undercoating without cleaning any of the old rust, and I'm sure most of you know how it goes after that. Car is that way 10 years later, along comes me. I buy the car, I take out the carpet, and i frown.

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